The bonnet hinges on my car are pretty tired and was wondering if there is someone out there that reconditions these. Every time I open and close bonnet, bonnet will sit prowd at the back and no amount of adjustment will fix it. I have to push bonnet down at back with my hand so bonnet moves closer to guard. Also, when I open bonnet, there is very fine metal particals on inner guard under hinge from where it is wearing itself away. Any help appreciated.
Bonnet hinges for LJ
Started by
_gtrtorana_
, Sep 22 2007 09:17 AM
9 replies to this topic
#2
_ronaldoredsox_
_ronaldoredsox_
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Posted 22 September 2007 - 01:04 PM
I share your problem and do not have a solution.. So, can anyone help please.
#3
frash da bucket
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Posted 22 September 2007 - 01:57 PM
Hi gtrtorana,the hinges you can get of a hk hinges are the same as lj torana,cheers.
#4
Toranamat69
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Posted 22 September 2007 - 04:19 PM
A few years back I rebuilt my LX hinges, they are almost identical to the LC/LJ ones. This is a common problem on all these hinges. Most people don't even realise they are worn and on the LX's you can adjust them a fair way to compensate but they still have a lot of sideways play.
I drilled out all 7 hinge pins on each of the hinge units and had 304 SS ones turned up (so I could still peen them over)
I also HPC'd all the bits of the hinge whilst they were apart so I could get into all the hard to reach corners which don't normally get coated properly.
I then re-assembled them with the new SS pins. There are 2 sized pins when you do this, a tall and a short depending where they go.
I made up a special alloy tool to go under the heads of the pins for when I peened them over so I didn't mark the Stainless.
I am very happy with the result.
If I can find some pics I will dig them out but I havn't seen them for a long while must be on one of my CD's somewhere.
A few years back I spoke to rare spares and they were doing reco'd chrome hinges where they fully disassembled the hinges first and then re-assembled using new SS pins.
I didn't like their sort of pins because they had drilled into the end of the pin and they split the end open when they peened them rather than mushrooming them over neatly the way mine are done.
They did say they would sell the pins separately but I havn't seen them again since - you would have to ring them up and check.
You may want slighlty over sized pins to make up for the wear, however on mine, most of the wear was on the actual pins themsleves, not the steel brackets.
M@
I drilled out all 7 hinge pins on each of the hinge units and had 304 SS ones turned up (so I could still peen them over)
I also HPC'd all the bits of the hinge whilst they were apart so I could get into all the hard to reach corners which don't normally get coated properly.
I then re-assembled them with the new SS pins. There are 2 sized pins when you do this, a tall and a short depending where they go.
I made up a special alloy tool to go under the heads of the pins for when I peened them over so I didn't mark the Stainless.
I am very happy with the result.
If I can find some pics I will dig them out but I havn't seen them for a long while must be on one of my CD's somewhere.
A few years back I spoke to rare spares and they were doing reco'd chrome hinges where they fully disassembled the hinges first and then re-assembled using new SS pins.
I didn't like their sort of pins because they had drilled into the end of the pin and they split the end open when they peened them rather than mushrooming them over neatly the way mine are done.
They did say they would sell the pins separately but I havn't seen them again since - you would have to ring them up and check.
You may want slighlty over sized pins to make up for the wear, however on mine, most of the wear was on the actual pins themsleves, not the steel brackets.
M@
#5
rodomo
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Posted 22 September 2007 - 06:10 PM
Sometimes a bonnet sticking up at the rear is only adjustment.
This sounds wrong but give it a go.
Loosen the hinges at the inner guards and lift the bonnet as high as it will go.
Now while its being held up, tighten the inner guard bolts.
Slowly close the bonnet watching how low the back corners are going.
If they are low now, that will be your start for adjustment/alignment.
This sounds wrong but give it a go.
Loosen the hinges at the inner guards and lift the bonnet as high as it will go.
Now while its being held up, tighten the inner guard bolts.
Slowly close the bonnet watching how low the back corners are going.
If they are low now, that will be your start for adjustment/alignment.
#6
_gtrtorana_
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Posted 24 September 2007 - 09:56 AM
It's not adjustment as I even elongated mounting holes in hinges to get some more adjustment but this still was not enough.
#7
LC-069
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Posted 07 May 2008 - 03:16 PM
Just wondering what the result was in the end??
Im going through the same thing at the moment!
Im going through the same thing at the moment!
#8
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 07 May 2008 - 03:34 PM
Ditto, but i think mine is just adjustment.
Steve
Steve
#9
_gtrtorana_
_gtrtorana_
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Posted 07 May 2008 - 07:38 PM
I changed the hinges and it did make it better but the pass side still sits prowd. I tried to adjust but the bottom of the hinge hits the body (the plate on the side of the engine bay) before I can get it to sit right. I drilled out my old hinge (pass side) and placed bolts with nylock nuts instead of the original units and hinge works well on the bench but I have not placed on car yet. Will try it this weekend.
#10
surfmaster
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Posted 07 May 2008 - 08:07 PM
Loosen the back lower bolts, back off the front lower bolts, push the bonnet up as far as you can get it without damaging it and tighten the four of them back up. You will find it a lot easier with two people doing this. When you have done this the bonnet will be a hell of a lot closer to being right.
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