I want to install a 1/2" steel fuel line in my LH. I have chassis connectors and need to run the line along the innear side of the sill on the d/s all the way and come up through the innear wheel well into the engine bay.
My worry is the brace that goes from the chassis rail out to in front of the sill. It looks like the line would be very vunerable where it will go over the brace.
Hope all that makes sense.
Anyone used 1/2" line and is this where you have run the fuel line?
Cheers Rod
1/2" fuel line
Started by
racean69
, May 06 2008 08:14 PM
22 replies to this topic
#1
racean69
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Posted 06 May 2008 - 08:14 PM
#2
racean69
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Posted 07 May 2008 - 09:47 PM
Though I might add this pic to make it easier to see what Iam talking about.
The fuel line is in red.
The area of concern is in the yellow box.
Any idea's?
Cheers.
#3
LXCHEV
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Posted 08 May 2008 - 12:34 AM
That's pretty much exactly how I've run my 1/2" aluminium fuel line - where it bends up in that front area, to head up into the front guard, the chassis is still the lowest part. I've never had any issues with it like this. Good way to run it too, because it keeps the line away from any heat sources - in particular the extractors.
#4
LS1LX
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Posted 08 May 2008 - 10:28 AM
Can I ask why are you running 1/2" lines, very big.
3/8" will do 450-500HP
I take it your after 5-600HP? If so why didnt you bloody say so, congratulations mate.
3/8" will do 450-500HP
I take it your after 5-600HP? If so why didnt you bloody say so, congratulations mate.
#5
LXCHEV
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Posted 08 May 2008 - 01:31 PM
Are you using mechanical or electric fuel pump?
The reason I originally upgraded to 1/2" line was because of the mechanical pump - they need volume in the main feed-line, whereas electric pumps can get away with smaller lines as LS1LX mentioned.
The reason I originally upgraded to 1/2" line was because of the mechanical pump - they need volume in the main feed-line, whereas electric pumps can get away with smaller lines as LS1LX mentioned.
#6
racean69
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Posted 08 May 2008 - 05:14 PM
LS1LX Yes Iam planning on around 400-450hp at the start.... but then would like to increase this by around 150hp or so a bit later.
LXCHEV I was thinking of going mech...I was waiting to see how yours went....How is yours going??
I am a bit undecided on this just yet.
cheers Rod
LXCHEV I was thinking of going mech...I was waiting to see how yours went....How is yours going??
I am a bit undecided on this just yet.
cheers Rod
#7
LXCHEV
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Posted 08 May 2008 - 05:36 PM
I have my brand new mechanical pump and all the parts ready to go! I just haven't had time to fit it and re-plumb the system yet. I will be doing it over the quieter months this Winter.
#8
_the gts_
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 03:59 AM
Looks like you have your car on a rotisary same as me.
I have cut a section out of the drivers side floor to give access to inside the rails. I am going to run SS tube inside the chassis rails.
It will go through the chassis connector and out into the inside of the trailing arm and have an AN or JIC fitting.
I cant put any pics up as I am currently overseas.
One thing though is that I am having trouble finding the bulkhead fittings to go through the rails. Not so much of a problem for me because if i cant find anything i will just machine it up.
I have cut a section out of the drivers side floor to give access to inside the rails. I am going to run SS tube inside the chassis rails.
It will go through the chassis connector and out into the inside of the trailing arm and have an AN or JIC fitting.
I cant put any pics up as I am currently overseas.
One thing though is that I am having trouble finding the bulkhead fittings to go through the rails. Not so much of a problem for me because if i cant find anything i will just machine it up.
#9
arrimar
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 12:38 PM
^ if money doesnt matter check out the swagelock catalogue. Heaps of bulkhead fittings available.
#10
myss427
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 04:48 PM
I made my fuel line out of stainless half inch, bought a plumbers pipe bender and used compression fittings and a bulk head fitting from fluid connectors. Heaps cheaper than earls fittings. Got the pipe from border stainless in 6 metre lengths for about $40.00
#11
Tiny
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 09:05 PM
Would stainless line "work harden" over time with little bits of movement causing possible stress fractures in the future?
This could also be an issue with the wrong grade of aluminium, but i'd say that the grade used for lines would be designed not to do this?
Just curious gents! Cheers!
This could also be an issue with the wrong grade of aluminium, but i'd say that the grade used for lines would be designed not to do this?
Just curious gents! Cheers!
#12
lakeside
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Posted 09 May 2008 - 10:00 PM
My engineer told me i can use bundy tube or bundy tube and nothing else.
#13
_the gts_
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Posted 10 May 2008 - 12:35 AM
I work with high pressure oxygen and other highly explosive and corrosive gasses. SS tube is no problem with vibration and yes Swagelock is the ducks nuts when it comes to compression fittings.
The reason i am going to make up my own fittings it that compression fittings 'may' eventually leak and i will be enclising my lines inside the chassis rails which will be very difficult to ever access again once the chassis has been enclosed again.
If you use SS 304 grade is acceptable for auto use and reasonably cheap at about $4-5/m for 1/2". will normally have to buy a 6 m length though.
The reason i am going to make up my own fittings it that compression fittings 'may' eventually leak and i will be enclising my lines inside the chassis rails which will be very difficult to ever access again once the chassis has been enclosed again.
If you use SS 304 grade is acceptable for auto use and reasonably cheap at about $4-5/m for 1/2". will normally have to buy a 6 m length though.
#14
Tiny
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Posted 12 May 2008 - 06:35 PM
Cheers for that THE GTS! that's the info i was after 
Just something i know can be of concern, Especially with the advise i was given during the first build which was to use 1/2" copper hot water pipe..........
That came out quick smart when i learnt better!
Just something i know can be of concern, Especially with the advise i was given during the first build which was to use 1/2" copper hot water pipe..........
That came out quick smart when i learnt better!
#15
_the gts_
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Posted 13 May 2008 - 04:50 AM
just one other thing with the swagelock, it is normally measured on the OD so if you want true 1/2 line you will neet to go with pipe.
I have found some swagelock fittings and started to machine them up to suit my needs. Just need to find an NPT tap to suit now!
I have found some swagelock fittings and started to machine them up to suit my needs. Just need to find an NPT tap to suit now!
#16
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 13 May 2008 - 10:44 AM
I have the following NPT taps that you can borrow.
1/4-18
3/8-18
1/2-14
1/4-18
3/8-18
1/2-14
#17
_the gts_
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Posted 14 May 2008 - 03:53 AM
Cheers LS2
I am actually at work in Laos. I think I have some at home, wouldnt mind catching up one day when back in Oz though
P.S if anyone is looking for SS tube look up a place called Prochem. the guys at the one in perth are pretty helpful!
I am actually at work in Laos. I think I have some at home, wouldnt mind catching up one day when back in Oz though
P.S if anyone is looking for SS tube look up a place called Prochem. the guys at the one in perth are pretty helpful!
#18
_the gts_
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Posted 22 May 2008 - 07:06 AM
Guys I have another question on this, and it might sound a little stupid
are we talking 1/2" tube (measured on the OD) or 1/2" pipe (measured on the ID)
are we talking 1/2" tube (measured on the OD) or 1/2" pipe (measured on the ID)
#19
racean69
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Posted 22 May 2008 - 12:37 PM
Mine is .500id .625od
#20
_the gts_
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Posted 22 May 2008 - 11:46 PM
Thanks racean
Just looking at the SS tube info.
Not sure if i will go with 5/8 with ID of 14.86 or
1/2 tube with an ID of 11.8mm
both handle over 1000psi so no dramas with pressure.
11.8mm ID should be ok for 550hp shouldnt it?
anybody know how much more would you should allow for NOS?
Just looking at the SS tube info.
Not sure if i will go with 5/8 with ID of 14.86 or
1/2 tube with an ID of 11.8mm
both handle over 1000psi so no dramas with pressure.
11.8mm ID should be ok for 550hp shouldnt it?
anybody know how much more would you should allow for NOS?
#21
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 23 May 2008 - 01:46 AM
#23
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 25 May 2008 - 06:07 AM
If you want to run a nitrous shot i would think running a separate fuel line for the nos enrichment would be the way to go. All the way from its own pick up to the pressure reg for the nitrous enrichment circuit, pumped by a half decent electric pump.
This is what i was going to do, but have changed my mind again..
A 5/16 line should handle a 150 shot easily enough.
This is what i was going to do, but have changed my mind again..
A 5/16 line should handle a 150 shot easily enough.
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