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Exhaust 4-1 or tri Y


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#1 _the gts_

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 04:14 AM

Guys

are there any exhuast guru's out there or anyone know where i would be able to get info on the best pipes for my motor

I have a Chev with 3000rpm stall 500+ hp and will spin to 65-7000rpm

would 1.3/4 or 1.7/8 pipe size be better?
Tri-y or 4-1?

I think that 4-1's might be a little difficult to fit in a torana engine bay with a chev.

Cheers

#2 _scottya!_

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 07:21 PM

Hi GTS, Gonzos in Brisbane does modifications to the K-Frame to get big pipes into torana engine bays. Have a look a mine and you can see how much he cuts out from behind the cross member and he also trims back tthe arms aswell. Depends where you are you may be able to get someone to do it for you.
cheers
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#3 Struggler

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 07:33 PM

Personally I would go with 1 3/4, but you may make more power with 1 5/8 if using a 4:1 design.

If building tri-Y's use a 1 7/8 primary.

JMHO

#4 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 08:20 PM

agree^ with struggler :spoton:

#5 Tiny

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Posted 09 May 2008 - 09:03 PM

Have a chat to LXCHEV, I know that he went though the whole saga with 4-1s and also Try Ys.

There is a BIG thread on it somewhere!

From my memory: It made the best performance gains with the 4-1s on, but for accessiblity he went back to a custom set of Tri-Ys and has struggled a little bit to find the max grunt that he got from the 4-1s.

But again, that's just by my memory! Drop him a PM, i'm sure he'd be more than willing to lend some advise!

#6 LXCHEV

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 11:53 AM

Yes I've tried 3 different sets sets of extractors and exhaust systems on my 383 Chev - what I would describe as:

1. Small Tri-Y's
2. Big 4-into-1's
3. Medium Tri-Y's

From my personal experience, each set have all produced 'similar' performance. The 4-into-1's certainly made a tiny bit more peak HP on the dyno (perhaps 10kW), and my fastest ever 1/4 mile time was run with them too. But we're only talking about one tenth here compared to times I've run with Tri-Y's!!

I also found the 4-into-1's made life very hard in my LX - impossible to remove without effectively pulling the engine, bugger all ground clearance, harder to access starter motor and oil filter etc. My Tri-Y's are much more user-friendly for the above problems.

I have gone into detail on this before in another topic - let me try to find it to save me typing it all out again.... stay tuned....

Edited by LXCHEV, 12 May 2008 - 11:57 AM.


#7 LXCHEV

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 12:48 PM

Ok this was the thread from last year... I notice you've already posted in it, but have a re-read of my post to refresh your memory:

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=22779

Keep us posted with what you decide....

PS. My engine is probably making a tiny bit less HP than yours (I've estimated mine at somewhere around 460HP, maybe a bit more. And it makes peak power at approx 6200 RPM), but I've revved it way past that many times.

#8 _the gts_

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 05:00 AM

LX Chev thanks for your PM and info

what are your thoughts on Tri-y with 1.7/8 primaries and 3"

I am also thinking Tri-y due to routing through the engine bay.

Spewing got a quote today $2500.
might buy the kit from difillipo and have a go myself

Edited by the gts, 13 May 2008 - 05:01 AM.


#9 LXCHEV

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 10:39 AM

If Struggler recommended 1-7/8 primaries above for a Tri-Y design, I'd trust him!!

I personally have no idea on collector size - but my engine builder LOVES big collectors (eg. 3" or even as big as 3.5" on Chevs that make big HP like we're talking here).

Custom pipes are certainly not cheap - if you have the skills to build them yourself, it'd be a good way to save some cash. I got mine built for an awesome price, but unfortunately he's shut down his workshop now. Just for interests sake, here are my current Tri-Y's (custom job):

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Cheers,
Brett.

Edited by LXCHEV, 13 May 2008 - 10:39 AM.


#10 RIM-010

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 10:45 AM

That's a nice looking 'zorst you've got there, Brett :D

Tim

#11 LXCHEV

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Posted 13 May 2008 - 11:19 AM

It's kinda like a jigsaw puzzle hey!!! HAHA :)

#12 _the gts_

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 03:46 AM

that is very similar to my old ones.

I think I might give it a go myself, will see how i feel in a few weeks.
hopefully I will be able to have the new set without any flange joins in the engine bay. Not fussed if the engine has to come out to do the starter or remove exhaust.

How loud is yours brett?

I have to try and come up with an inventive way of getting the noise down to 80db for testing while still using the 3" pipes.
was thinking of a restrictor in the collector flange

#13 LXCHEV

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 10:48 AM

From my 2.5" collectors, I have a twin 2.5" system, running twin Supercat mufflers (these are straight through, but with an interference/expansion chamber in them). Then twin 2.5" tailpipes. I also had two 10" hotdogs fitted prior to the mufflers.

With this system, it's still loudish - but not obnoxious like other systems I've had. I can happily cruise the streets with no problems. I don't think it'd pass the Victorian 96dB test though. If I run my dumpers at the diff, it's way louder again, obviously.

You could try the restrictor in the collector flange and/or a tiny set of tailpipes (assuming it's flanged at the rear just swap them on and off). Tailpipe size seems to have a huge influence.

#14 MRLXSS

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 11:08 AM

How loud is yours brett?

It sounds VERY NICE!

#15 _Lostit_

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 02:11 PM

Heard the beast and its not too loud till the go pedal is pushed :)

#16 LXCHEV

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 02:18 PM

And Go Pedals are FUUUUUN!!!!

#17 _moot_

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 03:16 PM

Spewing got a quote today $2500.

thats what mine cost. then you have another $500+ for coating. :fool:

#18 _Lostit_

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 03:18 PM

Depending how you make em 4 into 1 could fit easily .

#19 MRLXSS

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 03:50 PM

And Go Pedals are FUUUUUN!!!!

:rockon: :rockon: :rockon: They sure are!

#20 LXCHEV

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 04:14 PM

I paid around $1100 - $1200 for mine.

Lostit is right - depending on who makes them, and if they're clever - you could still get 4-into-1's to fit easily.

#21 _LJ355_

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 07:05 PM

I just had these custom made for the LJ 1''7/8 primaries 2'' secondaries 3'' collector
mandrel bent tig welded $1200 ceramic coated :spoton:
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#22 racean69

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 07:16 PM

They look good.... are you running a sbc or vn type holden engine?

#23 _LJ355_

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 07:17 PM

VN headed roller cammed 355

#24 LXCHEV

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Posted 14 May 2008 - 10:45 PM

Great looking pipes LJ!

#25 _the gts_

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Posted 15 May 2008 - 02:17 AM

They are nice pipes LJ especially the side with the longer primaries and secondaries. I will definately get a few Quotes, yes 2500 is without coating!

sounds like if the small tailpipes quieten the car the restrictor plate would be better placed after the muffler. I need the 3" pipes to go over the pit.




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