wiring fuel injection
#1 _lx-304_
Posted 17 September 2008 - 10:17 PM
we will assume that you have a donor car and that evrything is still in it.disconnect the battery leave the + cable on the starter motor and place the battrey end on the motor.the white wire on that end will run to the alternator.disconnect power in andd out of the alternator and the plug.next in line should be main fuse with pink and yellow and so on.leave all this connected next in line is the relay box.unplug all the plugs that are connected to box.(should be 3 starter motor,ecu and a grey one ) snip through all the wires that run into the cabin and head towards the key on d/s side and pull them through the hole.you should now be able to remove the relay box and main engine fuseand cable to alternator all in one.
now thats done find the 02 sensor in the extactor,unplug it,remove the sensor and put it safe somewhere.back to the engine bay and lever out the rubber grommet going through the fire wall on the p/s side(about 60mm in diameter),climb in the car disconnect ecu and put it the cupboard,disconnect the plugs that connect to the harness.you should now be able to pull the ecu plugs out and into the engine bay.now the motor and the wiring and the relay box should be disconnected from the car.remove the coil and anything else connect to the motor that will stop you from removing it.put the motor where ever you are going to store it,be it in the car or on some tyres.if you are using the gearbox as well then grab the harness for that as well,you can pull motor and box out in 1 go, but if it is v8 the motor and box needs to be seperated to put in the project or put on the front end then the front wheeld back in.you will need to buy a custom made gearbox member to suit???? into a????.before you put the motor in you need to fit hq sump and oil pick up.
back to the wiring
find somewhere comfortable( becuse your back is about to ache) with a bench and lay tha fuse and relay box wiring on the table.now the fun part.
remove all the loom tape and chuck it in the bin,otherwise it will stick to your feet and you will find it in your bed at midnight.
this is the important part
STEP1-remove all relays and wires joined to them from the relay box exceptSTART,EFI,FUEL PUMP,ENGINE FAN AND HORN,none of the others are needed.you should end up with something like the one below.my ones have been relocated in a row and doesnt have the horn one.
the black tape off to the left is main engine fuse
STEP2-
now get the plug from the project cars engine wiring harness(this the one with red,pink/yellow,purple,green and blue and cut about6 inches from the plug on the engine side.if you have abrown extra wire taped to the harness,unplug it and snip it as well,leaving it taped to the plug you just removed.this wire is joined to the brown wire from the - terminal on the coil.there is a second wire about 4inches,and now you have tacho.
just for info
red=power from alternator to the key
pink/yellow=coil-key,purple=startermotor to key(crank)
blue =oil pressure to the gauges
green= temp to gauges
STEP3=WIRNG THE RELAYS
the following wires should have nothing connected to them.
START=85/PURPLE,join this wire to the purple wire on the plug you just removed
86/grey or grey/blue,earth this to the body
EFI=86/PINK OR PINK/BLACK depends on what model,for now just leave that one
85/black =earth to body
FUEL PUMP=86/BLACK =earth
87/PURPLE,conect this to your actual fuel pumps.
now on the ecu plugs find terminal A6(should be pink),find the end of this wire and it as well as EFI 86/ PINK AND BLACK is joined to yellow one i think it is,it will be on the opposite side of the pink/yellow on the project plug.
the 2 wires left are blue and green which you can hook up the oil and temp sensor for your model that you need to fit if you want to use your gauges.if your model didnt come with a v8 then you use an aftermarket one as they come with there own sensor.
STEP 4=START BUTTON
ther are many ways you can do this,basically you need to pink and purple on the button betweeen the key and the relays.not sure if it legal some people take the purple one off the ig swith,hook it to start button,then splice into the pink one from ig swith and hook it to start button,this giving no power in the crank position on the key .the down side to this is if you have a dick head friend(and everyone has one)he can push the button when the motor is running and the starter motor will engage.
if you get this far you have now wired up yuor motor.
once you have the motor fitted and oil is in it is time to start it.before that you need to buy a nut that suits the 02 sensor,drill a whole in 1 of the pipes(i put mine under the car) and not ih the engine bay,now weld the nut to the extractor.hook the purple wire back onto the sensor(this D7 on ecu plug).now plug the starter motor plugs together,as well as computer plug .the brown wire in the loom with the purple from the starte motor is volts guage/light i think.
STEP5=FINISHING TOUCHES
fit alternator(preferably off the donor car)and belt and plug on the back.run a red wire from the side before the main fuse to the red one on the engine harness plug
hook up battery cable to alternator along with power in to the main fuse bax.youshould now have continuity from +terminal through to red 1 on the ig switch.
now hook fuel pumps and fuel lines to the back of p/s fuel rail and a line to the rear of d/s fuel rail.if you dont have your tank sorted yet just use a fuel can and have both the in and return lines going back into can.
STEP6=TURNING THE KEY.
now that everything is almost done and everything is connected except that grey plug from the relay box.(1 of those wires is engine light but i am un sure the rest are a/c temp and oil to the gauges and not neede to start the car)
im not 100% sure but i think that the ig module has to be earthed to the body.
still with the ecu disconnected,you can now turn the key to on as you would to start it normaly,you should here a relay click on,which will be EFI,now if you push the start button the starer moter should crank.dont panic you should have no fuel pumps at all yet.
if you are happy with where you are and cant smell smoke then it is time to start the motor.
STEP6=BLOCK YOUR EARS IF YOU HAVE KNOW PIPES FITTED
turn the key off,plug in the ecu and make sure it is not touching the body.i wrapped mine in a blanket
if for some reason you disconnected the coil then you need to connect that as well.
now is wher the smile shuold happen,turn the key on,you should hear 2 relays working,but most of all your fuel pumps will come on for around 3-5 second and then turn off.it is now you hit the start button and it should fire up and run like a dream.if it doesnt start straight away just prime a few more time as you will need to fill the lines.
if and when it starts,check to see if you have fuel running back into the can and that should be a job well done.(fingers crossed)
you can see that all you have really done is remove the hardware from 1 car to another and change the power source(being the key).if you know it worked when you pulled it out then it will work now.if i have missed anything or somebody would like to add some thing i over looked then please do,as we dont want smoke.
hope this helps
dave
#2 _wardy_
Posted 18 September 2008 - 08:47 PM
#3 _lx-304_
Posted 20 September 2008 - 11:35 AM
#4 _j.e.d._
Posted 08 October 2008 - 07:07 PM
#5 _lx-304_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 04:08 PM
dave
#6 _wardy_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 07:04 PM
I hope VQ is the same , will find out in the next 2 weeks . Pulling the motor out of the caprice this week, wash it down , paint it and wack it onto the torana kframe then roll it under. Full wiring harness is still in car aswell , thats the bit im not looking forward to , but the way you have laid it out sounds to easy not to try , will keep you updated as i go along .
matt
#7 _lx-304_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 07:34 PM
dave
#8 _lx-304_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 07:42 PM
dave
#9
Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:17 PM
my question is can they remove the security reqest or is it not on the memcal.if they can then it will only be around 150 for the whole lot,which is looking better than getting a new harness.if there is anyone up on there memcal knowlegde that would be good.thanks
Have a read of this thread:
http://www.gmh-toran...es from the day
#10 _wardy_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:39 PM
what you sayings is i will only have 5 wires (including fuel pump ) to connect .......wow to easy
#11 _lx-304_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:55 PM
#12 _lx-304_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 08:58 PM
dave
#13 _wardy_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 09:03 PM
matt
#14 _lx-304_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 09:11 PM
#15 _wardy_
Posted 07 November 2008 - 09:13 PM
matt
#16
Posted 08 November 2008 - 05:14 PM
Change the alternator excitation globe in the dash to the same wattage as the VN-VS. Torana/HQ etc too high from memory.
VN/VP/VQ have a 10-pulse per rev speed sensor, dash cluster converts it to 2 pulse for the ECU and cruise. So either you have to buy a 2 pulse Kalmaker (or similar) speed sensor. Or get a pulse converter. Or get the ppk (pulse per kM) constant modified in the Memcal to be 5 times bigger (and to suit the new car's tyre size and diff ratio). If you use the factory speed sensor you need to buy a speedo T-piece, unless you buy the inline Kalmaker unit.
VR-VSIII have a 10 pulse speed sensor input into the ECU directly so these work, but as LX-304 found out you have to disable the BCM input in the Memcal anyway so you still need a modified Memcal anyway. Modify ppk to suit the tyre size and diff ratio.
Hook up a globe on the dash somewhere to the engine check lamp wire coming out of the harness near to the ECU plug. Good idea also to make up a switch somewhere to close and turn the check light on.
Cruise control using the factory stuff is a snack also. Get it all off the donor car, and you can buy the factory bolt on mount for the actuator new still from Holden. Use a WB or VK with factory cruise 2 pole brake light switch for the brake input for the cruise control. You have to make up a control setup for up/down/resume/on/off (to replicate the stalk). WB and VK had a cruise button on the honeypot, so you could mount this and use it for one of the functions eg the on/off button (may not work for all models).
#17 _lx-304_
Posted 08 November 2008 - 05:44 PM
dave
#18
Posted 08 November 2008 - 06:27 PM
does any one know which colour is the engine light wire and even what clour the light is.there is a grren globe in the harness and this maybe it.also i am thinking about putting the cruise control in,but what is an actuator and will it be in the vr harness and can i use the brake switch from the harness also.if not why do i need a 2 pole switch and not the one in the vr
dave
The actuator is a black box that sits over on the LH side of the engine bay. Look under the bonnet of a Statesman to see one. Black box/alloy base with cable hanging out. Cable connects to the throttle body.
Reason I said to use 2 pole switch is one pole is needed for the brake lights, and the other for the cruise input. From memory it fits in the factory HQ-WB/LH-UC brake switch hole. VR one might also fit, not sure.
#19 _lx-304_
Posted 18 November 2008 - 10:15 AM
1=can i remove the sensor and stuff and fit a cog to the drive shaft of the gearbox
2=if not can i still use the lx dash with the sensor on the box
3=do i just have to buy a electronic speedo.
so if there is anyone who has done this or any one who knows the inside of the gearbox,any input would be a great help.
dave
#20 _lx-304_
Posted 18 November 2008 - 10:31 AM
dave
#21 _inj lx hatch_
Posted 17 April 2009 - 09:33 PM
#22 _LH SLR 3300_
Posted 18 April 2009 - 07:26 PM
#23 _lx-304_
Posted 19 April 2009 - 07:19 AM
GOOD WORK AND WELL DONE.
DAVE
#24 _lx-304_
Posted 21 March 2010 - 06:53 PM
cheers dave.
#25 _wardy_
Posted 25 March 2010 - 07:08 PM
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