Is there any way of confirming an aussie 4 speed is a M21 or M20 with out taking it apart?
M21 4 speed
Started by
_Greg_
, Aug 02 2009 10:07 PM
5 replies to this topic
#2
_SLR_6_
_SLR_6_
-
- Guests
Posted 02 August 2009 - 10:42 PM
theres a part number on it somewhere.
heres a link to a thread on the same topic http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=2393
heres a link to a thread on the same topic http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=2393
Edited by SLR_6, 02 August 2009 - 10:42 PM.
#3
Heath
View Garage
-
- Administrators
-
- 18,374 posts
I like cars.
- Name:Heath
- Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
- Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
- Joined: 07-November 05
View Garage
Posted 02 August 2009 - 10:45 PM
M21 has two rings cut into the input shaft and M20 only has one I think.
(An M21 input shaft could be installed into an M20 theoretically so you could be fooled, but the chances of this are very slim)
(An M21 input shaft could be installed into an M20 theoretically so you could be fooled, but the chances of this are very slim)
Edited by Heath, 02 August 2009 - 10:46 PM.
#4
_HQ SS_
_HQ SS_
-
- Guests
Posted 03 August 2009 - 12:47 AM
I would not advise using the rings to ID the box.
Some repo input shafts do not have the grooves on them and has you can see in this picture even Holden genuine 924 coded M21 shafts have
either.
This was recently posted on Oldholden about IDing them.
Put it in to first gear and turn the output shaft one complete turn and count the number of turns the input shaft does when you do.
If it turns two and a half turns it is an M21. If it turns more like three turns, it is an M20.
If you want a bit more info re clusters and input shafts etc I have a few more details and pictures here.
http://gallery.oldho...xs/Aussie 4spd/
Cheers Paul.
Some repo input shafts do not have the grooves on them and has you can see in this picture even Holden genuine 924 coded M21 shafts have
either.
This was recently posted on Oldholden about IDing them.
Put it in to first gear and turn the output shaft one complete turn and count the number of turns the input shaft does when you do.
If it turns two and a half turns it is an M21. If it turns more like three turns, it is an M20.
If you want a bit more info re clusters and input shafts etc I have a few more details and pictures here.
http://gallery.oldho...xs/Aussie 4spd/
Cheers Paul.
#5
yel327
-
- Members
-
- 13,576 posts
Oh My, Don't you post alot
- Joined: 10-February 08
Posted 03 August 2009 - 06:14 AM
I agree with Paul. You can also take the side cover off and look at the cluster to see what the box is.
Plus don't get too hung up on M20, M21 or M22 either. It costs the same to rebuild any of them and the bits that are different almost always need replacing (cluster and input shaft anyway). Once you change them it's only 3rd gear to worry about and they are cheap. The only bits that matter to price are if you are looking at a date coded case for a particular application, or possibly if the case has it's original paint marking.
Plus don't get too hung up on M20, M21 or M22 either. It costs the same to rebuild any of them and the bits that are different almost always need replacing (cluster and input shaft anyway). Once you change them it's only 3rd gear to worry about and they are cheap. The only bits that matter to price are if you are looking at a date coded case for a particular application, or possibly if the case has it's original paint marking.
#6
Heath
View Garage
-
- Administrators
-
- 18,374 posts
I like cars.
- Name:Heath
- Location:Eastern Suburbs, Melbourne
- Car:Heavily Modified UC Sunbird Hatchback
- Joined: 07-November 05
View Garage
Posted 03 August 2009 - 08:05 AM
Righto, I was just using the method I normally go by when I am strolling through a swapmeet 
Thanks
Thanks
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
