15 replies to this topic

[Statler]

G'day all,
I was trial fitting the VN discs to my 9" today, & came across a little problem.

The handbrake plate? fouls on the shocky spindle.

I've seen the commodore [lower] shocky mount welded on the top of the lower control arm bracket. Is this the only way around this problem?

I know this simple conversion has been done before, How did you guys get around this?

The search function has been no help.

Cheers, Col.

[ls2lxhatch]

There are a couple of options in this thread.

I made my diff 10 mm wider to provide the required clearance.

It would be worth looking at Skyline brakes instead. From what I have seen it is an easier conversion in terms of calliper clearance and handbrake cable.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 03 October 2009 - 12:09 PM.

[dattoman]

Have you tried putting the calipers towards the front of the diff ?

Sounds like they put the shock brackets in the wrong spot on your diff.... as usual

[Statler]

It doesn't matter if the calipers are leading or trailing, the backing plate still fouls on the shocky spindle.....by a lot!

Edited by coolngroovy, 03 October 2009 - 12:26 PM.

[Statler]

Here is a pic of the plate sitting flush on the diff end.
It shows just how much it is fouling by.

[Statler]

Thanks for the link Andy.

[dattoman]

Your diff guy had shortened your tubes by the looks

Measuring time !!!!

This is my Borg Warner which has had discs previously fitted no dramas

[ls2lxhatch]

Looks like your diff has been shortened by about 1 to 2 inches either side. You may be able to rotate the callipers to the front position and cut a scallop out of the backing plate to clear the shock bolt. The shock can be moved inboard however this may require new shocks as the travel is shortened.Picture from Youngy's thread.



This is my standard with 9" with modified backing plates that mounted the callipers in the 11 o'clock position.


This is my 20 mm wider ( 10 mm a side ) 9" diff with standard backing plates and the callipers in the standard position. The callipers will clear the shocks by about 5 mm if the pads are worn down to the backing plate.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 03 October 2009 - 09:11 PM.

[Statler]

Looks like your diff has been shortened by about 1 to 2 inches either side

Spot on m8. It's narrowed 1" either side.
I hadn't allowed for that. My bad.

It looks like i either have to change the shocky mount [commodore style], or go back to drums.

[Statler]

If you change the bottom mount to on top of the trailing arm bracket, use HQ shocks , they are shorter in length

Thanks for that red.
Do the Q shocks take the same size bolt as commodore?
The Comm mounts i have , use a small dia bolt.

[ls2lxhatch]

It would be reasonably easy to make a spacer on a lathe to adapt the Commodore bolt to the HQ shock eye.

[76lxhatch]

Doesn't the Commodore crush tube pretty well fit straight into the same bush that HQ/Torana use?

[Statler]

Because the housing is shorter than stock, I need to throw the housing [with discs] back into the car.
Then i can check for a suitable shock mounting position.
I think; until i do; that everything is speculation at this point.

Welding/machining is all second nature to me. Nothing is 'too hard'.
I wont use the commodore mounts, as they look very flimsy to me. I just dont trust them.
I think the easiest option at this point, is to modify the lower control arm mounts & adopt a HQ type setup. But i cant be certain until the housing is back in the car.

Thanks for those figures Red.