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lj torana rear brakes locking up


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#1 _brendan_h_

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 05:36 PM

rear brake in the torana are locking up under hard braking. it doesnt feel like the front are working all that good either though after a test run i sprayed a little water on the front disk and it boiled off instantly.

is it still posible to get a proportioning valve for a torana? or even a reco kit i can buy and fit it myself.

Edited by brendan_h, 10 November 2009 - 05:37 PM.


#2 dattoman

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 07:21 PM

What have you done recently that might have changed the way the car brakes ?
No point putting in a valve to mask the symptoms of rear lockup if your fronts aren't working correctly
All you do is reduce the braking efficiency of the car

LJ's didn't run a prop valve anyway... they do have a switch block but it doesn't proportion
Its done with rear wheel cylinder v's caliper sizes

#3 _Squarepants_

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 07:32 PM

Drum rear brakes? If so, it's prolly a sticky cylinder. Replace them and try again.

#4 _brendan_h_

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 08:12 PM

well ivew had the car for 4 weeks now and since i got it been shit. i replaced the booster and master cause they seen better days and now the brake work good apart from the rears locking.

might help, the handbrake also sort of dont grab like any other handbrake i have used, sort of only just grabs or grabs fully.

also dattoman are you sure they didnt have a prop valve? the one on there now has a nut on the end which looks like it cn unscrew and ive seen a pic of the same type and it had a few springs and seals.

Edited by brendan_h, 10 November 2009 - 08:15 PM.


#5 _@milco@_

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 09:55 PM

datto man know's his stuff mate...........

change your rear cylinders.....

#6 Heath

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Posted 10 November 2009 - 10:12 PM

Couldn't that also be caused by lipping in the drums? I know when they need machining the rear end is very prone to locking up...

#7 dattoman

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 01:28 AM

Theres lots of causes

Some aren't even brakes
Dud shocks can cause lockup ... or a soft spring

Sounds like a brake shop needs a closer look

I'd take a look for you... but bit far away

And yes they have a block... with a shuttle valve inside... and a nut on the end
But no proportioning
Unless someones stuck something on it that shouldn't be there

pics ?

#8 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 03:24 AM

Distribution block and brake fail switch.
Posted Image

Distribution block, brake fail switch and proportioning valve.
Posted Image

#9 _brendan_h_

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 06:30 AM

Distribution block and brake fail switch.
Posted Image

Distribution block, brake fail switch and proportioning valve.
Posted Image


i have forgoten what i have now will have a look when i get home.

think ill replace the rear wheel cylinders first as there only 30bucks a pair

#10 dattoman

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 10:47 AM

P5573 is the correct # for a disc front car

Give the drums a light machine and stuff some new shoes in there too
N1132 is the shoe # from memory

#11 _brendan_h_

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 03:10 PM

P5573 is the correct # for a disc front car

Give the drums a light machine and stuff some new shoes in there too
N1132 is the shoe # from memory



do you know who makes them?

#12 dattoman

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 03:41 PM

They are industry numbers... any auto parts shop will recognise the numbers

#13 _bathurst-racer_

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:19 PM

The rear brakes on my LJ started to lock up severly so I checked the brakes all round. There wasn't anything obviously wrong so I took the proportioning valve to Brake Pro. It didn't need re sleeving so 2 days and $100 and all was right again.

#14 _brendan_h_

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:55 PM

The rear brakes on my LJ started to lock up severly so I checked the brakes all round. There wasn't anything obviously wrong so I took the proportioning valve to Brake Pro. It didn't need re sleeving so 2 days and $100 and all was right again.



that contradicts that lj didnt have proportioning valves. they onyl have them in the master cylinders

#15 dattoman

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 09:07 PM

They don't have them at all
Not in the master
Not on the rail
They have a switch block (as pictured above)... thats all ... its not a prop valve

And $100 and 2 days for.....um... 2 orings and a hone ... nice work if you can get it :)

#16 _brendan_h_

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 11:11 AM

They don't have them at all
Not in the master
Not on the rail
They have a switch block (as pictured above)... thats all ... its not a prop valve

And $100 and 2 days for.....um... 2 orings and a hone ... nice work if you can get it Posted Image



i ment wheel cylinders.

so they dont have them in the wheel cylinders or they do?

would putting in a prop valve be a good move?

#17 _NZ Toranaman_

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 03:13 PM

Does it lock under slow pressure or does it lock them under a stab on the peddle as it may be your vacuam booster unit, I was told about this happening when it needs an overhaul.



#18 _brendan_h_

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 03:15 PM

Does it lock under slow pressure or does it lock them under a stab on the peddle as it may be your vacuam booster unit, I was told about this happening when it needs an overhaul.



brand new reco booster and master cylinder in it. the car is off the road for a few days while i fit the SUs. when i fitted the new booster and master cylinder i only got a short 5min drive

#19 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 04:25 PM

Is is braking well overall? It kind of sounds to me like the first thing to deal with is the front brakes

#20 _Squarepants_

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:38 PM

If the fronts are hot enough to boil water off then it sounds like they're working. Whether both of them are working evenly is yet to be discussed, but he said he sprayed water on "them" so I assume he did it to both.
After all, all brakes do is convert kinetic energy into heat.
BTW spraying water on your discs when they're hot is a good way to warp them, so don't get into a habit with that BH.

#21 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:48 PM

Maybe the fronts cooked first, who knows, just seems to me from the description in the first post that they are being overlooked

#22 _brendan_h_

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 07:26 PM

yer i dont realy know what the go is. but somone said earlyer the rear could be locking due to soft springs. and yes it is soft, was told when i got it thats some decenct shocks would be best as its already got lowered springs. will have to do some testing once i get it back on the road

#23 _Squarepants_

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Posted 12 November 2009 - 10:08 PM

Maybe the fronts cooked first, who knows, just seems to me from the description in the first post that they are being overlooked

Valid point.
Brendan, do the rears lock up every time you stand on the brakes or just after you've given them a hard time?

I can't imagine why the discs would over heat before the drums, but worth thinking about I suppose.

#24 orangeLJ

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 10:37 AM

Change your rear wheel cylinders.

There are two types that fit, one is for drums all round, others is for drum rear.

When I was trying to sort out a new cylinder for the drums on the back of the LJ, I was sold the wrong kind (my fault, it was all they had in stock and I needed it then and there and figured it would fit)

Old man tried to tell me what would happen, I tried it, yup... rear brakes locked every time I braked.

#25 S pack

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Posted 31 December 2014 - 08:12 AM

Old thread I know but I'm surprised no one mentioned brake fluid contamination of the brake shoes will cause the lock up the OP was dealing with.






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