Brake ducts
#1 _brett_32i_
Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:46 PM
i was under the impression you needed to duct the air to the centre of the rotor.
trying to do that on the torana is difficult though due to tyre/crossmember clearance.
#2
Posted 17 November 2009 - 10:08 PM
#3
Posted 18 November 2009 - 03:47 AM
This is for a vented disc setup of course
For a solid disc you just direct air at the caliper (no point pumping air at the centre of a solid disc)
If it was me...I would try to adapt a backing plate with a cutout to enable some decent duct tube to be mounted to direct the air
just cause you don't think you have room for some 3" hose in there with the steering a suspension doesn't mean there aren't other ways to do it
http://fsae1000.blogspot.com/2009/01/full-brake-ducting.html
Front wheels drives have more stuff in the way and they manage to get around the driveshafts and steering on those
Sometimes you just need to be slightly more creative (snail)
However... you can overcool too... so you need to monitor disc temps to keep your pads in their optimum range
Sometimes you actually need to restrict or complately block off the ducts on cool days or when its raining
#4 _brett_32i_
Posted 18 November 2009 - 11:45 AM
so consensus is directing air too the inner wheel area is a great uprgrade, but if you can do it, run them into the hub centre?
#5
Posted 18 November 2009 - 04:33 PM
#6
Posted 18 November 2009 - 05:33 PM
Mostly Mustangs I think
Heath ...not alot... but better than nothing
If Howard was a serious racer and used the car more often I'd be designing something better for it
Fine for street since they really won't get too hot
But if your going to use that thing of yours for more than 2 or 3 laps at a time on a circuit... then you need to cool them
What calipers did you decide on to go with the HQ discs ?
Caliper choice makes alot of difference
A cast iron caliper holds alot of heat and needs to be cooled too
An alloy caliper would be better just cooling the disc (from centre) as it won't retain the heat as much
But cooling both caliper and disc is best as long as your not overcooling
Example
My car will run 3" Nyladuct tubing to the centre of the disc
But only 1.5" to breathe on the caliper itself (AP 4 pot alloy)
#7
Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:27 PM
#8
Posted 19 November 2009 - 12:26 AM
#9
Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:28 AM
#10
Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:38 AM
I'm assuming bigger and more open is better?
#11
Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:45 AM
I've always thought that the wheels in this pic would be pretty good for it
But you've also got the vehicles with a circular series of vents that go around the wheel, like a blue meanie. That kind of thing is on a lot of rally cars etc, and it looks pretty purposeful. I suspect that most wheel designs are quite reasonable for brake cooling, some (such as Dragway centrelines) are particularly bad, and some others are particularly good.
Edited by Heath, 19 November 2009 - 10:47 AM.
#12
Posted 19 November 2009 - 10:50 AM
#13
Posted 19 November 2009 - 12:58 PM
Just thinking out loud here... As you mentioned about deep spokes.. I wonder if wheels were designed to swirl in so they suck the air in and blow them onto the brakes? As long as they don't create to much drag... Or wouldn't that actually do much?
Im sure there are quite a few examples about but I would want the air pumping out out, not sucking in, don't want too much turbulence under the car at speed.
#14
Posted 19 November 2009 - 01:04 PM
Just thinking out loud here... As you mentioned about deep spokes.. I wonder if wheels were designed to swirl in so they suck the air in and blow them onto the brakes? As long as they don't create to much drag... Or wouldn't that actually do much?
Im sure there are quite a few examples about but I would want the air pumping out out, not sucking in, don't want too much turbulence under the car at speed.
HAHA! Good point! Vortex shoot the air out sideways/backwards!
#15
Posted 19 November 2009 - 01:08 PM
#16
Posted 19 November 2009 - 02:56 PM
#17 _brett_32i_
Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:06 PM
hhmm, they arent big pics? they are on cardomain anyway if you want them bigger..
#18
Posted 05 December 2009 - 09:50 AM
Edited by Heath, 05 December 2009 - 09:52 AM.
#19 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:37 AM
I very much doubt that your brakes on a road car would ever get hot enough. Only time I've had heat plumes comming off the front brakes through the front wheels in on the early days at Wakefield when I was prolly on the brakes too much. Brakes slow you down too much, best to stay off em.
#20 _The Baron_
Posted 06 December 2009 - 01:51 PM
As they do not flex in your application, you could make that setup out of metal (keeping with the down pipe idea)
You could also shape the ends to direct the flow onto the rotor centre and curve/shape the entry nice and sell them as a kit, they could be a money spinner for you. Chrome anyone?
#21
Posted 06 December 2009 - 03:45 PM
#22 _Yella SLuR_
Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:16 PM
#23 _brett_32i_
Posted 08 December 2009 - 06:41 PM
had twice the pad wear on the outer pad though, so i really have to look at somehow ducting to the centre. maybe step down to 2 smaller ducts to clear the tyre.
#24
Posted 09 December 2009 - 05:44 PM
#25 _brett_32i_
Posted 10 December 2009 - 12:12 PM
target was 1:45 (hq record) so was pretty close. pads let me down an torsen gave no drive out of tight corners.
next time target will be low 40's
i have sent mumstaxi a vid, hopefully he will tube it.
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