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RUST IN HATCH AREA, LX TORANA

Started by _78sandman_ , Jan 15 2010 09:52 AM

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24 replies to this topic

#1 _78sandman_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 09:52 AM

Hi all,

I am looking at an LX hatchback at the moment and i wanted to get your thoughts about rust in the hatch hinge area and whether it can be replaced and how much it may cost to repair.

Any comments would be appreciated

Matt
.

Attached Files

RUST 009.jpg 1.16MB 132 downloads
RUST 004.jpg 1.02MB 145 downloads

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#2 _youngy_11_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:00 AM

That looks quite bad and is a hard area to fix, but I believe it can be fixed. Whats the rest of the car like?

You will need to get the whole car blasted.

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#3 Heath

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:07 AM

Not fun but if that's the worst rust in the car, sounds like a good shell to me!

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#4 _78sandman_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:13 AM

Hey Ryan,

Thanks for the quick post. rest of the car seems to be ok (i think), there is rust in the rear 1/4s and in the joints on the c-pillar, also around the tail lights.

do you know how much roughly to get a car blasted?

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#5 _Woodsy_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:15 AM

The whole car won't have to be blasted.

I got the same work done to my hatchback including the whole rubber channel around the hatch and the C Pillars both sides for $1600 i believe

Edited by Woodsy, 15 January 2010 - 10:17 AM.

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#6 _78sandman_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:25 AM

The whole car won't have to be blasted.

I got the same work done to my hatchback including the whole rubber channel around the hatch and the C Pillars both sides for $1600 i believe

$1600 sounds pretty good! was the rust as bad in the hinge part??

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#7 rodomo

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:29 AM

I really can't see all that being repaired for $1600?
Woodsy had his done when a pie and a beer was 50c.

Edited by rodomo, 15 January 2010 - 10:34 AM.

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#8 _youngy_11_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:34 AM

Yes you don't have to blast the whole car you don't even have to blast anything and cut out what you can see but rust will come up in other areas if not treated.

Check radiator support panel, up under dash on LHS, around front windscreen and the back areas that you have said.

Depends whats your intentions with the car and budget. You can buy sandblasters for like $300 i think and do it your self just paint strip all the big panels and blast the harder areas

At $50 per hour thats only 32 hours work less materials.

If its blasted and all cleaned up then I recon someone would be able to do all those repairs in about that time.

Edited by youngy_11, 15 January 2010 - 10:31 AM.

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#9 _78sandman_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:39 AM

Yes you don't have to blast the whole car you don't even have to blast anything and cut out what you can see but rust will come up in other areas if not treated.

Check radiator support panel, up under dash on LHS, around front windscreen and the back areas that you have said.

Depends whats your intentions with the car and budget. You can buy sandblasters for like $300 i think and do it your self just paint strip all the big panels and blast the harder areas

At $50 per hour thats only 32 hours work less materials.

If its blasted and all cleaned up then I recon someone would be able to do all those repairs in about that time.

thanks ryan. I would be hoping to have body and paint sorted for no more than $10,000. but a couple of panels shops have said its not really possible.

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#10 rodomo

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:46 AM

At $50 per hour thats only 32 hours work less materials.
If its blasted and all cleaned up then I recon someone would be able to do all those repairs in about that time.

I'm just going on how long it took and what was involved to do the same repairs on Boy's UC hatch (hinge area, both "C" pillars, tail light area and seal channels)

But then........I'm not a panel beater.

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#11 _youngy_11_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:56 AM

thanks ryan. I would be hoping to have body and paint sorted for no more than $10,000. but a couple of panels shops have said its not really possible.

By the sounds of it the body is pretty bad, but i recon if you were able to do most of the stripping and blasting and get it back to bare metal the best you can, you should be able to get the panel work + decent paint for 10k.

I'm just going on how long it took and what was involved to do the same repairs on Boy's UC hatch (hinge area, both "C" pillars, tail light area and seal channels)

But then........I'm not a panel beater

Yeah thats fine, im no panel beater either but you can't tell without seeing the whole car and then you can't really tell until its blasted and rust areas opened up.

Edited by youngy_11, 15 January 2010 - 10:59 AM.

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#12 myss427

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 10:59 AM

I just did this on a friends hatch, needed to find a donor hatch for parts and bought the rubber channels and Rare's replacement patches in corners and doglegs. If you have any beater mates or friends that can weld it will save you a lot of money. We spent only a few hundred all up for the hinge area, and you would never know it had rust in it.

Edited by myss427, 15 January 2010 - 11:01 AM.

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#13 rodomo

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 11:05 AM

Good point!
All the rust repair panels weren't available when I did Boy's.

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#14 _78sandman_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 11:08 AM

I just did this on a friends hatch, needed to find a donor hatch for parts and bought the rubber channels and Rare's replacement patches in corners and doglegs. If you have any beater mates or friends that can weld it will save you a lot of money. We spent only a few hundred all up for the hinge area, and you would never know it had rust in it.

that sounds pretty positive, but i dont really have any mates that are savy with a welder, or panel beating for that matter which means i have to pay someone to do it.

im in melbourne, does anyone know a good honest panel beater/spray painter?

I just did this on a friends hatch, needed to find a donor hatch for parts and bought the rubber channels and Rare's replacement patches in corners and doglegs. If you have any beater mates or friends that can weld it will save you a lot of money. We spent only a few hundred all up for the hinge area, and you would never know it had rust in it.

that sounds pretty positive, but i dont really have any mates that are savy with a welder, or panel beating for that matter which means i have to pay someone to do it.

im in melbourne, does anyone know a good honest panel beater/spray painter?

also im tipping that a replacement hatch or doner car would be pretty tough to get without spending heaps.

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#15 Heath

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 01:47 PM

Yes finding a donor shell would be very difficult and it may be no better. A skilled craftsman could make most of those sections, and repro panels of some of the areas you need are commercially available.

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#16 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 01:50 PM

If you have to pay someone to do the rust repairs then I would take the car to a panel beater and get a couple of quotes before you buy. I would not be surprised if the quote is well over 3K.

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#17 _78sandman_

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 02:54 PM

thanks for the advise guys,

i did speak to a panel beater that has done some work on another car of mine, i showed him the same pictures that i put on this thread and he was a bit concerned. he said that they would be able to fabricate the hatch hinge area but paint and panel work would most likely be up around 10-15k.

does this seem reasonable?

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#18 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 15 January 2010 - 03:35 PM

You would need to give a breakdown of the costs and the paint used.

It is easy to spend 15K+ on paint alone.

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#19 _dirtbag_

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Posted 16 January 2010 - 12:33 AM

Maybe you could use some of the money you'd use to pay someone and get yourself a little mig and have a go yourself? The hinge area isn't that hard to repair as long as you go easy near the roof skin so it doesn't distort.
I've just recently done the hinge area and C pillars on my brothers car, and they weren't that hard to fix.
Just a thought anyway.

This is after cutting all the outer skin away. I had to weld a whole new piece inside there before the new outer piece could go on, but it gets hidden so doesn't have to look too pretty.

Posted Image

And here it is with the new outer skin.

Posted Image

I'm not a panel beater or anything, so if I can do it anyone can : )

So go on, give it a go : )

I'd be happy to do it for you. but I'm not exactly anywhere near you : )

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#20 _78sandman_

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Posted 17 January 2010 - 04:50 PM

hey tim,

Thanks for posting the pictures! that seems to have come up pretty sweet!

was the rust as extensive as it looks in my photos?

Im not sure if i could trust myself with a MIG, ive never used a welder before. id most likely butcher it.

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#21 _dirtbag_

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Posted 17 January 2010 - 05:11 PM

Hey Matt. Yeah, the rust was pretty bad. It went all the way across and I even had to weld bits in the pockets where the hinges bolt in. It was also rusted out most of the way down the C pillars too, and the whole rear end had to get replaced, and the hatch seal channel was rusted out etc etc : )

As for using a MIG welder, it's the easiest welder there is to use. Get anything from 130amps and up and you'll find yourself fixing and making everything in no time. The good thing with metal is if it looks bad, cut it off and do it again.

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#22 _Woodsy_

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Posted 17 January 2010 - 06:35 PM

My rust was as bad if not worse than yours. I paid that price.. 4 years ago. They had the car for 2-3 weeks

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#23 _77hatch_

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Posted 19 January 2010 - 08:42 PM

evening gents, been a while since i was on , the hatch has been on the go for 10 years lol , i was lucky enough to pick up a uc hatch and i basically cut the thing in half then picked the whole scuttle tray hinge section out of it , then we carefully picked my hatch apart and welded the good piece in after being rust treat , i will try and get some pics , .........they allll seem to do it and it is worth the effort to do it properly even if you don't have a donor car , MOST of it people cant see, which doesn't mean bog it , but fabricate sections and repair, it's better off being solid under the roof lining than looking like the factory stamp and full of bog .
IF you cant do the work or don't have a "mate" who can do some of or help you with some of it , for a full resto you will be looking at 10-15,000 as most cars will need some repairs ! , not cheap .........the other alternative is to start fooling around in the shed and learn how to do it yourself , thats how i learned what i know

cheers

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#24 _Kingwardy_

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Posted 01 May 2016 - 08:52 PM

Hey there I'm new to this forum and have the same issue a lot of rust inside and out I dunno if it is even fixable anyone no someone I can go to in Melb.. Would love to have this thing sorted without rust. So I can start to return it to its former glory.

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#25 _78sandman_

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Posted 04 June 2016 - 07:01 PM

Hey josh,

I haven't been on here in ages. Just saw this thread had come back up.

I chickened out on the car in the pictures and bought another one instead. I am yet to get into the body on this one, so who knows what's under the current paint... Kinda wish I bought the rusty one haha..

Try Blackedge in Bayswater or Rhodes Smash in Ferntree Gully. Depends where you're from.