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lx hydraulic clutch


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#1 _oldskool_

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 05:09 PM

Can anyone give me some info,i am converting from auto to aussie 4 speed in v8 lx.I have sourced up pedals from lh and have an angled mounting bracket and master cylinder which i think was originally off a 6 along with slave bracket and cylinder ,they all seem to fit but im not keen on drilling through firewall unless im sure this system will work for me.



#2 dattoman

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:12 PM

Need to drill holes and modify the pedal

Can't say I'm a fan of these
Would much rather go with a cable conversion over a poorly designed hydraulic

#3 Evan

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 09:36 PM

Hey Chris
I am taking it that you have the set up that i have pictured below.
As Datto said, its not the best set up and you have to make a few mods that are easy enough with a welder and half a days work.
Make sure you bleed it and have it ready to go before you install it as i have herd they are a real pain to bleed when they are installed.
I prefer this over my previous cable clutch set ups that broke and were heavy.

Im sure that there are plenty of threads on this type of conversion. Have a search

Evan.

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#4 _oldskool_

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 08:27 AM

Need to drill holes and modify the pedal

Can't say I'm a fan of these
Would much rather go with a cable conversion over a poorly designed hydraulic



Can't say im real keen on the way it looks mounted on firewall,but I've heard the original cable and rat trap are prone to snapping cables and i don't want reliability problems everytime i take it out.Besides the fact i can't seem to find an original set up .

#5 _oldskool_

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 08:34 AM

Hey Chris
I am taking it that you have the set up that i have pictured below.
As Datto said, its not the best set up and you have to make a few mods that are easy enough with a welder and half a days work.
Make sure you bleed it and have it ready to go before you install it as i have herd they are a real pain to bleed when they are installed.
I prefer this over my previous cable clutch set ups that broke and were heavy.

Im sure that there are plenty of threads on this type of conversion. Have a search

Evan.

Posted Image
Posted Image


Hey Evan
my setup is the same at the slave end but the master cylinder is different,my master cylinder is the same as early holden hr which worries me because im not sure if it will give enough throw to operate pressure plate
Thanks Chris

#6 dattoman

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 12:28 PM

The HR cyl is the same as that HK-G one in bore size and stroke
It just mounts differently

In all my years of driving my old manual SS with a very heavy clutch I only ever broke 1 rat trap cable

Tinkers broke a few in her sedan (the end on the pedal) probably an alignment issue as the clutch wasn't that heavy

So don't know how often you'll be breaking cables

Infact... all the years of racing Torana.... ever heard of a broken clutch cable... at Bathurst or anywhere ?

#7 _oldskool_

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 05:33 PM

The HR cyl is the same as that HK-G one in bore size and stroke
It just mounts differently

In all my years of driving my old manual SS with a very heavy clutch I only ever broke 1 rat trap cable

Tinkers broke a few in her sedan (the end on the pedal) probably an alignment issue as the clutch wasn't that heavy

So don't know how often you'll be breaking cables

Infact... all the years of racing Torana.... ever heard of a broken clutch cable... at Bathurst or anywhere ?



Had an lj years ago and had heaps of drama's with either snapping the ball off the end of the thin rod in the rattrap or just braking the bracket on the end.So i wanted to be sure with my lx that i wasn't going backwards by using original setup,had spoken to a couple of guys who said i was mad for trying to source up original setup so i thought i would ask the question thanks for your help

#8 _robrenjus_

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 09:55 PM

i got years of trouble free operation out of my hydraulic clutch set up and i had a very heavy clutch(although it was on a six with a celica 5 spd conversion) it may look a bit funny but it worked great, it does require a hole in the firewall for the pushrod and one for the top bolt. Also a short extension welded on to the pedal to actuate the pushrod.

Edited by robrenjus, 30 January 2010 - 09:58 PM.


#9 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 09:30 PM

Just had a thought- what about the ring style clutch slave on the Gen3 boxes? Using a VT onwards clutch master?

I'm not knowledgeable on manual stuff and I'm not really a fan of Gen3's (I worked at a Holden service centre) but maybe this could be an option?


Attached File  AR5_7.jpg   30.27K   29 downloads

Edited by Gunmetal LH, 12 February 2010 - 09:34 PM.


#10 76lxhatch

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Posted 12 February 2010 - 09:33 PM

^ I adapted a Tilton one to the four speed in my old HZ (to get around extractor clearance issues), they work really well but are very pricey

#11 _@milco@_

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Posted 14 February 2010 - 10:26 PM

^ I adapted a Tilton one to the four speed in my old HZ (to get around extractor clearance issues), they work really well but are very pricey



i have seen these and thought about adapting one, what mods where needed to install the tilton one? also what was the part number?

#12 76lxhatch

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 08:58 PM

It was definitely Tilton brand and it was the one to suit a Muncie, it came as two separate pieces - the mount and the bearing itself. The collar mount bearing is part # 61-600 and the mount itself was # 61-611.
http://www.jegs.com/...755538/10002/-1

They also do universal ones which have four feet which can be cut to the correct length to sit against the front of the box but at that time they cost more than the application-specific Muncie version.

It was basically the same setup as the front bearing retainer on the Aussie 4 speed except it wasn't long enough, i.e. the thrust bearing didn't sit close enough to the clutch, and the bolt holes were in the wrong place. It turns out that the centre bore fit nicely over the standard thrust bearing slide/bearing retainer so I cut one down to the correct length, re-drilled the bolt holes where needed and used longer bolts with spacers. I thought I had pics but can't find any at present, hopefully you can understand what I'm talking about! I see in the link above there are a number of other collar mounts available in the same style, maybe one is long enough that you can just get away with drilling a couple of holes and fit it?




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