LX brake booster upgrade + hydraulic clutch
#1 _Azza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 01:13 AM
I'm no expert with this stuff, that's why I have come to seek everybody's wisdom.
Well to start with, can someone please tell me what these boosters are from? I think I know what they are except for the one on the left which I think may be from a HG ute? The little blue one is from my old 202 LX. The one just to the left of the blue one I think was the V8 one that came out of my LX. And the one on the far right I am pretty sure is another LX one that I had as a spare..
My boosters have been sitting around for 3 years. Is there any parts inside that deteriorate from not being used? Want to know if I would need to have them rebuilt if they can be? Or if they would be ok to use?
I want to get rid of the ugly proportioning valve (pretty sure that is the name of it) from the brake setup. I did a bit of searching on here and found someone who said the LH/LX booster can be modified to suit the UC master cylinder (that has no proportioning valve??) by fitting a Commodore 45 degree cover? Also on my searching, I found a bunch of guys who are using a VT commodore master cylinder as an upgrade on there VL commodore boosters? I'm not sure of the workings and benefits of a VT master cylinder over a UC torana one, but would that be a better option if I could fit it?
This is a link to the guide to fit a VT Master onto a VL booster
Here is a photo of a VT master cylinder onto a VL booster:
Ok so thats the brakes sorted, now I need some hydraulic clutch advice.
I'm putting a T5 behind my 253 and I want to run a hydraulic clutch setup. Does anyone have any advice and possibly some photo's or a tutorial on how to do so? What would be the best master cylinder to use for this? Or can one even be fitted, as the rocker covers will be damn close, and the brake booster is huge.
Any advice would be awesome.
Thanks,
Adam
#2 _Azza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 01:55 AM
#3 _cruiza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 08:39 AM
little blue one is 4 or 6 cyclinder LH / LX.
the one on the right is a V8 LH / LX booster but has a UC push rod, note the blue one rod is striaght but the deeper one it is bent, so deeper one definitely V8 booster but bent rod means it has been modified to fit UC brake pedal.
One on left of blue looks like early holden so HG HR booster but push rod I am guessing LC LJ and I think they had a similar sort of looking booster so could be
one on far left early holden HG HR etc
*sits back to see if I have won a prize for correctly guessing answers**
#4 _rorym_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 09:34 AM
#5 _Azza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 10:51 AM
Just a quick question, you said the booster arm needs to be shortened 50mm back to 140mm from the body face to the centre of the arm pin hole.. Do you have any pictures of you doing this?
How did you do it? Did you cut the arm off and weld it back on? Just worried about the strength of it, don't wanna have no brakes up the highway! lol
Anyone have any idea's on the hydraulic clutch setup?
Cheers.
Adam
#6 _cruiza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 11:37 AM
#7
Posted 26 April 2010 - 04:06 PM
Left.. VH312 or VH320 depending on rod length
Suits HK-T-G
Next on right... VH329
Suits LH and early LX V8
Next on right VH271
Suits as above but 6 and 4 cyl
Last one far right VH346
Suits later LX V8 and UC 6 cyl with 4w discs
Here is a photo of a VT master cylinder onto a VL booster:
Nope... this is a VT booster and master... not a VT master on a VL booster
I'm putting a T5 behind my 253 and I want to run a hydraulic clutch setup. Does anyone have any advice and possibly some photo's or a tutorial on how to do so? What would be the best master cylinder to use for this? Or can one even be fitted, as the rocker covers will be damn close, and the brake booster is huge.
Any advice would be awesome.
Thanks,
Adam
Mal uses a modified pedal and a funny lil master
Then suggests using a concentric slave cylinder and bearing assembly inside the bellhousing... so no external slave
I'd recommend this too
Dave did this with his Tremec (355LX)
I think he wasn't entirely happy with the pedal and did some mods on it before fitting
#8 _rorym_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 04:35 PM
R
#9 _Azza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 07:50 PM
Where did you buy that kit from? And what sort of bracket bolts to the firewall?
Cheers
#10 _Azza_
Posted 26 April 2010 - 11:09 PM
Has anyone ever tried out one of the Malwood underdash hydraulic pedal kits? All you need is a remote reservoir in the engine bay. It's a $790 investment tho.. But could save a lot of dicking around..
I also found a remote reservoir setup on a Nissan website. Maybe something like this could be modified to suit a torana? Because without the bowl on top you could probably have this sitting higher than the rocker cover for clearance??
Also has anyone ever seen a reverse swing clutch setup on a torana? That way could possibly have the master cylinder underneath the dash..
Have a chew on that and see what you guys can spit out.
Cheers
Adam
#11
Posted 27 April 2010 - 07:20 AM
http://www.gmh-toran...t=150&start=150
#12
Posted 27 April 2010 - 09:20 PM
All depends how much dicking about laying upside down you want to do
#13 _rorym_
Posted 27 April 2010 - 09:46 PM
R
Edited by rorym, 27 April 2010 - 09:48 PM.
#14 _Azza_
Posted 28 April 2010 - 01:38 AM
Just one last question. That booster and master cylinder upgrade, is that suited for rear drums? I'm not sure so thought I would check. As your tech article title was.. Commodore Booster to LH/X Rear Discs
Cheers for all the help guys much appreciated
#15
Posted 28 April 2010 - 07:57 AM
#16 _Azza_
Posted 28 April 2010 - 10:32 PM
Cheers
#17
Posted 28 April 2010 - 10:39 PM
#18
Posted 29 April 2010 - 07:11 AM
You still need one regardless, but as Datto says its built into the master cylinder so its less obvious. See the extra cylinder built into the casting where the brake lines attach on the Commodore ones compared to the earlier type - that's the proportioning valve (edit: and fail switch which you must have for a street car).My main aim was to get rid of the proportioning valve..
Edited by 76lxhatch, 29 April 2010 - 07:12 AM.
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