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UC Torana Wiring

Started by _perrymitchell_ , May 10 2010 10:44 PM

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#1 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 10 May 2010 - 10:44 PM

Hey guys...

New to this forum - I own a uc sunbird as my daily driver, will be taking it off the road this year for a full restoration project. One thing I want to do is fully rewire the car. I want to do this myself, but can't find a wiring diagram for it anywhere.

Could anyone perhaps link me to one? Or even suggest a place I can go looking for one? Even if one of the other Torana's has a near identical one, I'd love to know.

Thanks in advance Posted Image

#2 rodomo

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 12:34 AM

I have this book and it includes UC variations
http://cgi.ebay.com....=item414f3a575e

#3 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 11:47 AM

I have this book and it includes UC variations
http://cgi.ebay.com....=item414f3a575e


Thanks for the offer mate, but think I'll just buy a regular uc workshop manual instead. After googling for ages, I havent found anything to suit.

If anyone requires a uc wiring diagram in the future on this forum, i'll happily scan it for them.

Cheers

#4 Steve TPF

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 07:24 PM

Scanned these from my manual:
UC Wiring 1

Posted Image

UC Wiring 2

Posted Image

I scanned them in high res, so if you download them you can enlarge them on your screen. A printer would help too of course.



#5 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 11 May 2010 - 10:52 PM

Thanks Steve, that's what I was looking for. Love how simple these things are... Should be a breeze to build from scratch. I've had a look at all the hotrod wiring kits on ebay etc, but I'd much rather know every inch of it before I throw it in the car. Besides I have a far few alterations to make before I install it. Will remodel it on the PC first.

Cheers for that :)

#6 _hutch_

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Posted 13 May 2010 - 08:05 PM

Just a question,why do we want to rewire the car,is the lume bur'nt or the insulation gone hard ? all i have done in the past with me mates resto jobs is to remove the tape,straighten out the cables and retape it,if ya doin an engine upgrade ie 6 to an 8 ya can extend or move the relative cables.
I made a lume for an Austin A 90 a few months ago only because the cables had rubber insulation that had gone brittle,it took me about 2 days from memory to make and fit,and there is more wire in a torana.
All i intend to do to the lume in my LJ is to tidy it up,i have 2 to choose from all i need to do to one is add the ammeter cables
Phillip

#7 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 03:27 PM

Just a question,why do we want to rewire the car,is the lume bur'nt or the insulation gone hard ? all i have done in the past with me mates resto jobs is to remove the tape,straighten out the cables and retape it,if ya doin an engine upgrade ie 6 to an 8 ya can extend or move the relative cables.
I made a lume for an Austin A 90 a few months ago only because the cables had rubber insulation that had gone brittle,it took me about 2 days from memory to make and fit,and there is more wire in a torana.
All i intend to do to the lume in my LJ is to tidy it up,i have 2 to choose from all i need to do to one is add the ammeter cables
Phillip


Hey Phillip.

My grandfather was an electrician by trade, and during the war. I guess I got most of my interest in that field from him. I look at the current wiring loom and cringe. It's messy and ill-managed. Apart from the fact that I'm using all new materials and connectors/fuses etc, I'll be adding my own functionality to the loom (the main reason I'm doing this).

I'm adding hazard lights for a start. I am aware I can buy new looms with this already available - but again, I like the challenge of doing it all myself... no shortcuts. It'll also have central locking and possibly a more complicated ignition system among other things. So if I redesign and model off the old loom, I should get a new and more improved version to use in my Torana.

Besides I have the feeling some of my wiring is already bare and shorting... No idea how - The car is an electrical nightmare.

Thanks for the input :)


EDIT: By the way, can anyone think of any reasons why I shouldn't mount the fusebox in the engine bay on the firewall? It'll be shielded and up high... Just not sure how careful I should be about doing that seeing as it's probably prone to moisture. Has anyone done this? Or moved it elsewhere? I don't want it under the dash in its current location.

Edited by perrymitchell, 14 May 2010 - 03:30 PM.

#8 TerrA LX

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 03:39 PM

EDIT: By the way, can anyone think of any reasons why I shouldn't mount the fusebox in the engine bay on the firewall? It'll be shielded and up high... Just not sure how careful I should be about doing that seeing as it's probably prone to moisture. Has anyone done this? Or moved it elsewhere? I don't want it under the dash in its current location.


Holden moved them to the engine bay in 1984, I can't see a problem if it done correctly and not over exposed to heat.
Any reason you are sticking with fuses and not going to circuit breakers, which could probably be mounted in much better locations?

#9 rodomo

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Posted 14 May 2010 - 05:57 PM

If you're going to move it into the engine bay, I would change to spade type fuses.

http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3359214a14

And if you choose to go down the circuit breaker road, don't use the automatic re-set ones..............diagnosis nightmare :Headbang2:

p.s.......that wasn't my book for sale........ just one like it.

Edited by rodomo, 14 May 2010 - 05:59 PM.

#10 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 10:33 AM

Holden moved them to the engine bay in 1984, I can't see a problem if it done correctly and not over exposed to heat.
Any reason you are sticking with fuses and not going to circuit breakers, which could probably be mounted in much better locations?


Hey mate. I picked a set of those spade bit fuses from Jaycar a week ago... They definitely beat the glass fuses.

I don't mean to sound lazy, but would you have a link to any of these circuit breakers for cars?

Cheers

#11 _torbirdie_

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 02:33 PM

EDIT: By the way, can anyone think of any reasons why I shouldn't mount the fusebox in the engine bay on the firewall? It'll be shielded and up high... Just not sure how careful I should be about doing that seeing as it's probably prone to moisture. Has anyone done this? Or moved it elsewhere? I don't want it under the dash in its current location.


As suggested ^, glass fuses would be a nightmare here due to corrosion on the clips.

Cant think of any reasons why it is a good idea other than saving the space of a fuse panel inside, the contacts for any connection are going to be better off not in the engine compartment.

Here's just a few ideas of the top of my head why it would be best to leave it as was designed:

1. rather than one power wire entering the cabin, you are going to have to run wires through the fire wall to everything that is fused within the cabin, count them up.

2. the switched 12V wire from the ignition switch will need to run back through the firewall to the fuse panel and back in again , longer wire = more problems, unless of course you revise the 12V accessory wiring.

3. The headlight switch power is before the fuse for the instrument lights, another wire that will go out and back in again.

#12 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 04:02 PM

1. rather than one power wire entering the cabin, you are going to have to run wires through the fire wall to everything that is fused within the cabin, count them up.


Good point. I hadn't thought about the extra holes I'd need to run the wires there, and how much is actually fused in the cabin. I'm using a similar item to that mentioned by rodomo - I was thinking of just using a custom housing from Jaycar to cover them, as I don't want all the connections to the exterior of that fusebox to be exposed. Can anyone recommend something to use as a fusebox over that?

Cheers

EDIT: Had a look on ebay for the circuit breakers - They're all too large to be used for this purpose...?

Edited by perrymitchell, 16 May 2010 - 04:04 PM.

#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 07:50 PM

Hella do both the bolt in line and manual reset spade type to replace spade fuses.

#14 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 09:22 PM

Hella do both the bolt in line and manual reset spade type to replace spade fuses.


Wow, that's fantastic. Would not have thought that far ahead. Thanks heaps guys - Wiring system is looking promising.

#15 _sstorana_

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 10:02 PM

Hi Perry

mate, send me an email you and I will send you a more detailed wiring diagram that the one above. It's in PDF and it's about ten pages worth..


cheers
Mick

Edited by sstorana, 16 May 2010 - 10:07 PM.

#16 TerrA LX

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Posted 16 May 2010 - 10:33 PM

Can't wait to see some pictures of what you come up with. Be sure to keep us updated.

#17 _perrymitchell_

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Posted 17 May 2010 - 10:41 PM

Can't wait to see some pictures of what you come up with. Be sure to keep us updated.


Thanks mate. I'll share my ideas when I finish my remodeling on the PC - Any advice at this point will save me some serious headaches down the road...

Cheers guys

Hi Perry

mate, send me an email you and I will send you a more detailed wiring diagram that the one above. It's in PDF and it's about ten pages worth..


cheers
Mick


PM sent, thanks for that.

#18 _sstorana_

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Posted 18 May 2010 - 02:29 PM

Hi Perry

email sent, I hope you find it usefull

cheers
Mick

#19 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 12:55 PM

Where is your battery going?
IMO low powered items, not needing a relay, like door lights, old horns etc are usually negative switched and high powered items should all be run thru a positive switched relay.
Plenty of good earth connections thru the harness to the chassis.
Fuses/circuit breakers should be closest to the power supply, not at the other end, for example, battery - C/breaker - relay - headlight.
Use auto C/B's on headlights and manual reset type for other systems.
These are the only considerations I can think of atm.

#20 _Hqheath_

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 09:07 PM

Hi Perry

mate, send me an email you and I will send you a more detailed wiring diagram that the one above. It's in PDF and it's about ten pages worth..


cheers
Mick


Hi SSTorana,

Any chance i could get a copy of that detailed wiring diagram? I'm building a UC circuit racer and i have a box of wiring i need to sort thru Posted Image

Cheers
Heath

#21 _sstorana_

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 09:28 PM


Hi Perry

mate, send me an email you and I will send you a more detailed wiring diagram that the one above. It's in PDF and it's about ten pages worth..


cheers
Mick


Hi SSTorana,

Any chance i could get a copy of that detailed wiring diagram? I'm building a UC circuit racer and i have a box of wiring i need to sort thru Posted Image

Cheers
Heath



No probs Heath

send me an email at [email protected]

cheers
Mick

#22 _Hqheath_

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Posted 02 November 2010 - 06:40 PM

Hi there Mick

Sorry for the long delay, but after losing my internet for a while I then forgot all about this post :) D'oh!
If I could still get a copy, that would be fantastic.
Regards
Heath



Hi SSTorana,

Any chance i could get a copy of that detailed wiring diagram? I'm building a UC circuit racer and i have a box of wiring i need to sort thru Posted Image

Cheers
Heath
[/quote]


No probs Heath

send me an email at [email protected]

cheers
Mick
[/quote]
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