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Holden V8 Pulleys


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#1 _LHoon_

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 02:33 PM

I have an AT Racing gilmer drive kit on my 355. But have been having problems with the belt jumping off the front of the alternator pulley.
The alternator pulley only has a small lip or sidewall on it preventing the belt from moving.
It only tends to happen when the engine revs up to 7000rpm rapidly (e.g. unexpected wheelspin).
I think the problem started when I changed my alternator, so I suspect it is due to a slight misalignment. But it may also be due to some kind of harmonics at high revs.

I guess I could try and fix the alignment problem by taking everything to a machine shop and make everything 100% square and aligned.
However, I would also prefer to have a more robust solution.

Does anyone know if serpentine belt kits are available for Holden V8?
Or perhaps there are gilmer pulleys that have a better guide on the side (i.e. a higher side wall)...?
Any other suggestions?

#2 _Herne_

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 02:53 PM

Its an alignment problem in my opinion a friend fitted mine I had the same problem and eventually the guide on the small pulley came off and luckily I didnt lose it. We welded it back on.

My mechanic aligned the alternator pulley which took some time and affort and it's been fine since even at high revs.

Sort the alignment and the problem goes away.

Thats my experience, hope it helps.

Herne

#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 03:07 PM

Agree, alignment problem, along with the fact it is an inferior part, the lip is not there to prevent the belt moving.
the pullys need to be square and aligned 100% or you will have problems.

#4 ozyozyozy

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Posted 08 February 2011 - 07:45 PM

i agree too, alternator may not be aligned, this is normal.

was going to post this at some point but is a good time to mention. For anyone who is interested, i have just had some pulleys custom made that suit a muilti rib (6 rib) belt. 5 sets have been made, so have 4 to be sold. i dont have a pic just yet, but working on it. i will prob get lx355 to post the pic for me as soon as i have it.
these pulleys are cnc machined alloy and anodised in a champagne colour(they look hollywood). iv had them machined so the crank pulley is underdriven, slows water pump speed( iv never had an overheating issue on the street from this),this suits high rpm driving. at the moment the water pump pulley suits an early water pump, i did this due to clearance of electric fans and radiator. there will prob be slight machining required for alignment for each individual setup as not all parts are the same on everones car.

#5 _LHoon_

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 11:35 AM

Thanks for the advice guys.

was going to post this at some point but is a good time to mention. For anyone who is interested, i have just had some pulleys custom made that suit a muilti rib (6 rib) belt. 5 sets have been made, so have 4 to be sold. i dont have a pic just yet, but working on it. i will prob get lx355 to post the pic for me as soon as i have it.
these pulleys are cnc machined alloy and anodised in a champagne colour(they look hollywood). iv had them machined so the crank pulley is underdriven, slows water pump speed( iv never had an overheating issue on the street from this),this suits high rpm driving. at the moment the water pump pulley suits an early water pump, i did this due to clearance of electric fans and radiator. there will prob be slight machining required for alignment for each individual setup as not all parts are the same on everones car.


I'd be interested in this if you could provide more details & photos it would help. Thanks
What price are you thinking?

#6 _brendan_h_

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Posted 09 February 2011 - 03:48 PM

Thanks for the advice guys.


was going to post this at some point but is a good time to mention. For anyone who is interested, i have just had some pulleys custom made that suit a muilti rib (6 rib) belt. 5 sets have been made, so have 4 to be sold. i dont have a pic just yet, but working on it. i will prob get lx355 to post the pic for me as soon as i have it.
these pulleys are cnc machined alloy and anodised in a champagne colour(they look hollywood). iv had them machined so the crank pulley is underdriven, slows water pump speed( iv never had an overheating issue on the street from this),this suits high rpm driving. at the moment the water pump pulley suits an early water pump, i did this due to clearance of electric fans and radiator. there will prob be slight machining required for alignment for each individual setup as not all parts are the same on everones car.


I'd be interested in this if you could provide more details & photos it would help. Thanks
What price are you thinking?


mate i am very very interested in these. whats the cost. if you could please get back to me asap that would be awesome. i am defently in for a set, providing cost

#7 ozyozyozy

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 01:03 PM

gday guys, i took a quick pic, the alternator pulley is included, its just off getting touched up to help with alignment.
price well looking about $450 at this stage not including shipping. i know its more expensive then gilmer setups, but i think finished product will be worth it. il take another pic when i get the alt pulley back.

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#8 TerrA LX

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 05:09 PM

WOW, great stuff.

#9 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 07:26 PM

That is way way better than a silly gilmer setup for a non supercharged engine.

Cheers.

#10 rodomo

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:24 AM

Not a lot of belt contact around the crank pulley though? :dontknow:

#11 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:56 AM

I ran way less that that on the grenade motor with only a v belt and it never slipped, with a shitload more hp/revs it might have but didnt seem to be an issue??

Cheers.

#12 _TorYoda_

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 07:36 PM

In my experience the biggest issue (apart from the misalignment challenges) with a Gilmer is the alternator pulleys supplied are way too small. Not enough teeth to drive the huge load of the alternator when revs rise rapidly. This causes the belt to jump teeth unless it is Very tight. The increased tension quickly kills water pump bearings.

The serpentine kit is a great idea! IMO The idler pulley should be before the alternator to reduce load on it though. I realise why you located it there is for easy fitment but is not ideal as it will undergo a lot of side load as the crank pulls on the belt (trying to straighten it out) as it accelerates the alternator. Mounted between the crank pulley and alternator would allow increased crank pulley contact (as Rodomo noted there is not a lot) and prolong belt life. That said, Nice work so far! :buttrock:

Edited by TorYoda, 13 February 2011 - 07:46 PM.


#13 ozyozyozy

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 08:29 PM

its yet to be run as engine is in rebuild status.
the idler is there due to the belt makes contact with the alternater bracket mounting bolt.
theres not really much differnce with belt contact area as running standard pulleys.
i plan on changing the alternator belt adjuster to a rose jointed link to allow better control of adjustment.
we`l see how it goes, i dont expect it to be problem free at 1st.
i regularly spin this to 7000rpm so it will be interesting to see what happens.
as with everything, make one change, three more are required.

#14 _scalpa1_

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Posted 15 February 2011 - 09:47 PM

with a 6 ribbed belt you will more than likely find that you have more grip even tho it may look like less remember instead of 2 sides making contact ie V you will have 6 ie VVVVVV you can put me down for one set also.

#15 _LHoon_

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 03:31 PM

Quick update on my situation:

I decided to replace the whole AT Racing setup with a Diecrest gilmer drive system. Bolted-on, problem solved.
Belt is perfectly aligned. I have tested it over 250kms, and revved it past 7000 on many occasions.

#16 _LHoon_

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Posted 21 February 2011 - 03:40 PM

I suspect the problem with the AT Racing gilmer system lies with their alternator pulley.
For some reason, the alternator pulley doesn't have the teeth/splines along the whole width of the pulley. There is kind of a groove at the front, which you can see in this photo:

https://cache.gmh-to...vn/DSCF3664.jpg

I think this sharp edge may grab on the belt, or perhaps put some sideways loading on it. It then pulls it forwards at high revs, eventually making the belt jump right off the pulley.

From looking at it, everything about the Diecrest system is much better quality.

#17 _2wild4u_

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Posted 22 February 2011 - 09:29 PM

gday guys, i took a quick pic, t

he alternator pulley is included, its just off getting touched up to help with alignment.
price well looking about $450 at this stage not including shipping. i know its more expensive then gilmer setups, but i think finished product will be worth it. il take another pic when i get the alt pulley back.


any more pics of this finished, im interested but i wouldnt need a water pump pulley as i dont have one, just need crank and alternator pullies if that is possible

#18 ozyozyozy

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Posted 26 February 2011 - 01:30 PM

sorry guys for not getting it up sooner. got pulley back a week ago, i have to borrow the net(tightass).
here is all the pulleys on a dummy engine.
sorry at this stage want to sell as a set, otherwise it will get messy having random pulleys lef over.

if any one is interested in a set, send me a message, might have to wait a week for a response. if you want a response sooner my no. is 0408826623, name is darren for the people who dont no.
been in W.A. can be a pain. it dosent just stand for west australia. the local meaning is Wait Awhile.

a set will cost $450 plus shipping if required. they suit a 308 with an early style water pump(short nose, there will be some minor work required to get correct pulley alignment, as all setups are slightly different.

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#19 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 06:47 PM

Ive noticed on cars with serpentine belts standard the tensioner is spring loaded and it actaully moves a little while under load and backing off is having it set at one tension going to affect its running operation?

#20 rodomo

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Posted 27 February 2011 - 07:48 PM

Some multi-ribbed bels are adjusted this way, shouldn't be an issue given it's length.
If it were a serpentine driving a million pulleys, different story.

#21 ozyozyozy

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 07:50 PM

a manual adjuster is fine.
a common thing to do on ls1 engines is to replace the spring loaded adjuster with a maunal adjuster because the spring loaded one becomes weak and dosent apply enough tension for bigger hp, supercharge applications.

iv actually just changed the sliding adjuster with an adjustable rose jointed link, to allow more accurate positve adjustment.

#22 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 01 March 2011 - 10:00 PM

What about a tensioner like on the VL 6cyl timing belt?

#23 _Bdazzled76_

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 02:01 PM

Hi all, I am new to the forum, this being my first post.  Thought I would tack on the end of this thread instead of starting a new one.  Does anyone know where you can get these pulley's from in Western Australia.  Alternatively, do v belt pulleys off other engines like SBC fit the holden 308 crank balancer and small bearing water pump on the Holden 308?  Any help would be greatly appreciated. 



#24 _Bdazzled76_

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Posted 25 May 2013 - 12:44 PM

Does anyone know where I can buy these ribbed pulley's from now?  Cheers.



#25 _Bdazzled76_

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Posted 29 May 2013 - 07:33 AM

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