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Brush or shoot POR 15

Started by _Marshall_ , Jul 11 2011 05:44 PM

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7 replies to this topic

#1 _Marshall_

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 05:44 PM

I'm putting things in place for the next couple of weeks.

I have a few things to paint, complete front end, inside the hatch (floor etc) under the gards and the diff.

I was planning to paint all the parts, but how does POR15 cover, does it float so it becomes smooth, or will i see paint brush marks in everything. Somethings arnt to important as it more for protection abd will be hidden by carpet etc.

And finally under the car, should it be satin black or POR15 ??

But on the front end would it be best to spray paint the POR15 or paint brush it on ?? (can you spray paint POR15 ?? )

:dontknow:

Edited by Marshall, 11 July 2011 - 05:47 PM.

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#2 _2ELCS_

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 06:25 PM

You can spray it,just thin it down with their thinner's, it can be brushed on, try to keep the brushed strokes in one direction ,Make sure what your puting it on has not been in contact with any petroleum products AND get it of your skin before it drys, if you don't it has to wear off.

If you have a look at my build thread, Green Machine 3 i used on just about every thing.

Have fun.

Wayne

Edited by 2ELCS, 11 July 2011 - 06:26 PM.

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#3 _Viper_

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Posted 11 July 2011 - 06:41 PM

If you brush it on it does level out pretty good... I sprayed a diff housing once and it came up awesome...

But id say either way is fine, If ya already got a compressor then just buy a cheap $50 gun and spray it, just make sure you mask everything good.

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#4 mitchg

The guy with the Torailer

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Name:Mitch
Location:Ingleburn, NSW
Car:Was a '77 LX V6 Torana + Torailer now VX SS
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Posted 11 July 2011 - 06:48 PM

Lovely stuff. It is self levelling though I brushed it onto areas which are not really visible and it was used on my old mans one tonner chassis and it came out great without any brush marks.

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#5 ls2lxhatch

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Location:Perth
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Posted 11 July 2011 - 07:28 PM

Make sure you read the instructions before using KBS or POR15, it is quite different to normal paint. If you intend to spray either product then you will need an organic vapour particulate NIOSH/MSHA approved respirator.

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#6 _Agent 34_

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Posted 12 July 2011 - 07:11 PM

i did some tyre kicking and this is what i spoke to the bloke that sells it at warriewood;

brush is better - don't be to fussy with the prep - use the degreaser and then the etch phosphorus primer then off you go. - as per the above guys advice.- the guy did say make sure it's dry from first coat, dosen't matter if first coat is not perfect second coat will sort this out.

Don't clean the surface to smooth.

another guy i spoke to did say that once the can is open it goes off, so get it all ready and do in a two day sequence one day for the first coat and the second day for the next coat.

hope this helps, but it's all on the info sheet. I didn't use it although i preped the cross member ready got mine sprayed at panel shop.

I have looked at 2Elc's and it looks fine

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#7 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 12:13 AM

The instructions say never to paint out of the can unless you intend to use the whole can in one session. If you are not going to use the whole can in one session then you dispense the amount required into another container and seal the can immediately.

The instructions also state that the second coat of POR15 must be applied while the first coat is tacky but almost dry (45 mins - 1 hour). If topcoat is to be applied at a later date then a light dust coat of primer is applied over tacky POR-15.

Once cured (2-5 hours) POR15 must be sanded with 600 grit sandpaper to remove the gloss before a coat of POR15 or any other paint will stick.

POR15 Information

Instructions
POR-15 Directions (For people who don't read directions)
POR-15 Information Sheet
POR-15 Application Information

If you have not already bought POR15 then buy KBS instead as it is cheaper and better. The same rules for application apply. The story I heard is that the chemist from POR15 developed the KBS range.

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#8 _Viper_

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Posted 13 July 2011 - 08:44 AM

Ive always poured what I needed into another container then put glad wrap over the tin before replacing the lid, then I store it in the Bar fridge (im sure it said to do that somewhere) but it seems to work.. Paint is still fresh as months later...

One thing I did wrong once was paint it over smooth bare metal with no phosphoric acid... seemed fine but would flake off really easily.

It prefers to be painted over slightly roughed up metal (240 grit or so) at least make sure you use the acid prep to etch it. and dont worry about cleaning off all the surface rust it loves it, just make sure there is no bad flakey bits