27 replies to this topic

[hainzy]

Hi guys.

Both my painter mates are having trouble with the council and EPA over their new sheds and booths so my plans to get a mates rates paintjob are on in limbo. Ive been thinking about doing what I can myself for a while now, so I reckon this summer is a good time to have a go...

I have been looking into it all, researching, asking, and googling. Theres some great threads on here too so I dont wanna go over old ground but Id just like a few experienced blokes to le me know if Im on the right track.

OK, so my starting point is an LX which is originally mandarin red, but has been repainted a darker red. Looks like its just straight over the top as theres lots of areas where I can still see the mandarin red. Im not after a concourse job and I am planning to just sand back to the madarin red paint, then repaint it in that colour. Prob go Acrylic as I believe you can get a good finish with a few layers and some decent sanding and its obviously less toxic than 2pac.

Reading different information, ive pieced this plan together. -

Sand back to original paint layer using 120 to 400 on an orbital sander.

Find areas of rust at this time, and have all rust cut out and fixed.

Clean surface with thinners or prepsol

Apply bog where necessary

Sand back using sanding blocks and or orbital – continue until smooth

Apply more bog/putty where necessary and continue sanding etc. until smooth use 120, then 180, then 400.

Clean with prepsol

Spray on primer/undercoat (Acrylic/2pac?) Apply 2 to 3 layers – high build? (name/brand?)

Allow a few days to properly dry.

Sand back with 600 then 800 wet’n dry.

Inspect for pinholes or other blemishes

Spray on filler (also called acrylic putty ?)– (name/brand? – rage gold) to areas which need extra attention

Sand back with 600 then 800 wet’n dry.

Spray on a sealer (name/brand?)

Sand back with 600 then 800 wet’n dry.

Paint - eventually....


Id just like to know if that sounds about right as a plan of attack. I plan to buy a compressor/painting gear etc, and get a mate to weld the new metal in. Ill have lots of other questions down the track but I just want to make sure I have the basic plan right.

Heres a pic of the torrie as it sits now, with a pic of my VH ive just put an EFI 304 and 5 speed into (big job), and my HZ sandman which a mate painted for a sweet price..

[hainzy]

Thanks Mick. I did actually have that in there as a question initially but i didnt want to put too much stuff in the first post, so you answered that for me. So wherever steel is exposed or replaced, ill use primer before bog. Cheers.

[hainzy]

Thanks Quagmire.
I certainly plan to wear the safety gear. You only get one set of lungs!

I have had a good read through a few posts. thats where i came up with this plan of attack. I just wanna make sure Ive got the right idea. Ill talk to the blokes at the local auto paint shop too. Theyve always been really helpful when ive had various colours matched and spray packs made up.

Theres lots of painting stuff on youtube. Do you perchance have a link to NZstatos stuff? Thanks mate.

So its -

Sand back to original paint layer using 120 to 400 on an orbital sander.

Find areas of rust at this time, and have all rust cut out and fixed.

Clean surface with thinners or prepsol

*Coat exposed areas of metal with etch primer

Apply bog where necessary

Sand back using sanding blocks and or orbital – continue until smooth

Apply more bog/putty where necessary and continue sanding etc. until smooth use 120, then 180, then 400.

Clean with prepsol

Spray on primer/undercoat (Acrylic/2pac?) Apply 2 to 3 layers – high build? (name/brand?)

Allow a few days to properly dry.

Sand back with 600 then 800 wet’n dry.

Inspect for pinholes or other blemishes

Spray on filler (also called acrylic putty ?)– (name/brand? – rage gold) to areas which need extra attention

Sand back with 600 then 800 wet’n dry.

Spray on a sealer (name/brand?)

Sand back with 600 then 800 wet’n dry.

Paint - eventually....

[hainzy]

Apart from all the gear already posted, the numero uno most important thing you must have

is the BEST QUALITY inline Water trap for your airline that you can afford.

Cheers for that. Ill make sure I look iinto it when I get closer to buying something.

Thanks for all the info guys. Youve given me some great advice there. Ill update my list and go have a good chat to the bloke at the local auto paint shop this week. I need some clarification on the differrences between bog, acrylic putty, filler and hi fill; plus sealer and primer and where everything fits... Total newbie at this but once I get my head around the role of everything Ill get stuck into it. Slowly....

[hainzy]

Thanks guys.

bog/filler...same thing
hi fill-short for hi fill primer....just a sandable primer....normally used after filler (bog)
sealer-seals the surface from paints and other previous nasties ...acy and enemel/2 pack react in horrible ways....if you bare metal/know what type of paint is on the car you don't need this
primer is well primer
hope this helps
al

Thanks Quagmire. Is there a way to tell what type of paint has been used? My car is originally mandarin red. Its now a dark red colour but I can still see the mandarin red under the paint in lots of places. Could i assume then that its prob acrylic as well and that I dont need sealer? Or is there a way to test it?

Toranarama I wont be driving it around. Thats good advice though. Hope my roof doesnt leak!

Gonedeaf yeah I have been playing with my commodore and sandman for a few years and now its the torrys turn so i thought i might learn a new skill and save some cash. Paintjobs are bloody exxy but I can see how much wotk is involved in proper prep work and rust repairs. I was originally thinking of doing all the prep work and getting it totally ready then getting someone else to do the top coat. Might still do that but ill see how i go. Im not sure my shed is clean/dust free enough to pull of a tasty top coat.

Edited by hainzy, 06 November 2011 - 09:30 PM.

[hainzy]

Oh righto.

So basically sand the whole car down 80 on the long board, 120 on the orby, 180 on the orby, bog work, acrylic primer filler, spot putty, 120 on the long board, 180 on the orby, 240 on the orby, acrylic primer filler, spot putty, 240 on the orby, 320 on the orby, acrylic primer surfacer, 240 on the orby, 320 on the orby, 600 wet by hand, top coat. Then with acrylic you will want to go Gordy's advice, top coat, 600 wet, top coat, 600 wet, top coat, 600 wet, top coat, 1200 wet, 1500 wet, buff, masturbate.

Now, back to putting the bog in, i've never tried putting bog over a 1k primer, only ever done it over 2k's, so im not entirely sure how brilliant of an idea it is over 1k primers...Perhaps someone who has tried it will be able to answer better.

Spot priming with a 2k primer to put your bog over will be to hard, as you will have to try to avoid getting it on the acrylic, so PITA.

Any more questions?

Cheers.

WOW.
Thanks so much Bomber and Toranarama. Thats awesome! As I said ive looked at lots of info and read heaps of great informative posts, but Ive found it hard to work out the entire process in a straight forward sort of way and thats just the kind of info I was after. Thanks so much for taking the time to write that. I hope it helps out other blokes as well.

Ive had a good read through your posts. There will no doubt be lots of other questions but ill cross those bridges when I come to them.

For now, just wondering:
1 You say sand back then apply bog. Do i need to prime pre bog or is it Ok to put bog over areas of bare metal / old paint? Sorry just not quite clear on that..
2 In between coats layers etc, where im sanding and wet sanding I obviously need to clean the residue for the next coat. Do I prepsol in between?
3 My LX has flares. Is there any change to the process when painting over plastic/fibreglass? Do I need an additive?
4 When you say acrylic primer filler, is this the same thing as etch primer?
5 You didnt mention the clear coat, so just wondering where this fits in with the final sanding?

Thanks again for all this info. I appreciate you taking the time to spell it out.

[hainzy]

Great. Awesome info.

Thanks again Bomber.

Just doing a bit of rearranging in the shed and hope to move the torry into stripping down position this week. Then the fun will begin...

When I can find the time in between 1 and a half jobs, a 5 year and 6 month old, a milion house chores and a huge out of control garden.... The zen process of sanding will be my summer sanctuary...

Cheers.

[hainzy]

Thanks guys. Again.

Yep youre probably right Toranarama but anything in the shed away from the kids is zen. I even find mowing the lawn a zen process. I just zone out...

And hopefully snap back into it before i run over my foot...