22 replies to this topic

[warrenm]

In the quest to keep the Holden 6 in 1 piece, I've adapted a larger balancer. I could use the Romac unit but I'd heard good reports about several units that help the Chev 6's stay together. After looking at the pro's & con's I decided to purchase a ATI Super Damper as the hub is separate from the damper which made it more appealing should I stuff up.
After some measuring I welded the centre of the hub as ATI don't make one to fit a Holden 6, then set it up in the lathe & started machining. This is the end result.
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I then modified a timing cover by removing the timing marker as the ATI damper is larger, this hasn't been welded up at this stage.  P1010850 (600 x 450).jpg   59.1K   7 downloads
This is the damper fitted to a spare motor so that it's easier to work on.
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As this damper doesn't have a belt groove in it,(because I ordered the wrong one) I purchased a 5.25" Moroso pulley to bolt on the front. The smaller pulley also keeps the alternator speed down.
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Also had to move the water pump pulley forward, I'll make an alloy one when I can get a bit of alloy the correct size.
Because the balancer is heavier, the crank is drilled so that a bolt can help keep everything on.
Here's a pic of a std & modified alternator bracket to move it forward.
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Almost ready to fit to the car, just need to refit the electric fan as I prefer to use an engine driven, but there's not enough room in an LJ.

[warrenm]

I've been busy this morning, I made a new adjustable timing pointer, I'll add the pin when I fit it to the engine.
Time to kick back, I'm off to see "COLD CHISEL" this arvo.
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[Shtstr]

Looks good. can't wait to see how it all comes up when the engine is finished

[Stinga]

nice work, could be a market for those hub adapters!

[warrenm]

Great stuff. These things have quite a reputation for themselves, I'm keen to try one myself on the next build. What application was it originally for? I was thinking of using a BB Chrysler unit, they're big enough in diameter without being too wide and are neutral balance. Did ATI suggest a starting point for the o-rings to use?

I looked at the BB Chrysler after seeing the "Rattler" that you were fitting to a project, but I ended up getting one to suit a 6cyl 5MG Toyota that I thought had a serpentine belt, but I miss read the catalogue. No starting point for the o-rings, use it as is. This neutral balance.

[warrenm]

I've now fitted the balancer to the car.
Hub fitted
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Balancer fitted & torqued.
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Car is back together.
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Something that I didn't take a pic of was the 7/16"unf stud that I fitted in the crank to hold it all on.
All seems OK, the timing pointer is good, far better than the std Holden one. It's just a pity that I can't get the engine fan in there, as I'm not overly fussed on using an electric fan.

Edited by warrenm, 13 November 2011 - 12:20 PM.

[greens nice]

looks real good.

did you crack test the crankshaft after the flywheel loosened?

[warrenm]

Hi Warren,

I assume this is for the drag strip ? as i was looking at your photo.

Again i assume that you have adjusted the water pump pulley to be bigger than the standard one, could you expand out on this a bit and again i assume that at high revs it automatically pumps more water anyway ?

one last question - can you clarify if cast impellor are Worse that the metal pressed ones - i have heard that the cast one don't cavitate -- This could be the other way around - may be the cast don't cavitate not sure now.

grant

Hi Grant
Yes the car is predominantly(the car is still street registered) for the dragstrip, but no reason that it couldn't be used for circuit or speedway or street.
The water pump pulley is still the std Holden size, at this stage I haven't had issues with water. I did fit a larger pulley to the alternator as it was spinning up to 19000 rpm so it's been slowed down. The Moroso pulley that I fitted is 5 1/2" which is 1/2" smaller that a std Holden balancer, so this has slowed things down a little more.
The impeller on this engine is a pressed steal one, but has had every second vane removed to "slow" the water down, it was modified 12 or 13 years ago when this engine was in a speedway car & it did drop the temps. My other engine had a cast impeller & didn't have any heating issues with an engine driven fan & a std LH/LX radiator, so I've used both.
Warren

looks real good.

did you crack test the crankshaft after the flywheel loosened?

Thanks & no crack testing.

[warrenm]

Does removing every second blade on the pump cause heating problems in low rev's? I was told about this mod but was not brave enough to do it due to the amount of street driving I will do.
Nice work with the balancer.

I can't comment on the low speed cooling problems, it may have an effect.

[warrenm]

Time for an update with the balancer. I had a run at the Test n Tune at the WSID on the 11/2/12 the result is that the balancer stayed in place, so did the flywheel.
6000rpm on the clock, side step the clutch, flat change at 7000.
Here's some footage & pics.
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[mr5000]

not a bad effort there out of a 6 nice work

[greens nice]

good stuff
do you know what ratio first gear is in your sag box?
that mph is good for a 12.40, if you can get it out of the hole a bit better.
Is there a reason why it sits a bit high in the bum?

[warrenm]

1st gear is 3.11:1.
It can't sit any lower in the rear with those tyres on, I've also fitted std LJ springs to the front which has lowered it a bit.

[warrenm]

A couple of pics for Kevin

1/2" cap screw turned down to 7/16"unf & washer.

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[greens nice]

What do ya torque it to?

[warrenm]

60ft/lbs, I think it was.

[Dave6179]

Dunno if this is on the same page or not... mate used to build/race circle track modifieds, big wing on the roof. His had a chev beating 179, that ended up being  mine for 24 years. He gave me a std Chev 6" balancer that I fitted to the Holden item, using three cap screws. All matched up like it was sposed to be there. Of course, I didn't hear/feel/notice any difference, just figured extra weight spins up slower... then gave it back to him for his new 327(?) he's building.