Ok, while the pics are uploading to photobucket im gunna have a whinge and ask for peoples help and experienced opinions
Ive just picked up mu LX SLR from the blasters and it is not good at all, this thing has had some major work done in its life.
from what i can tell, both B pillars have been cut out and replaced, section of the inner guard to battery box has been replaced, extensive rust in lh rear quarter and sills, only taking it back this far has found all these problems.
Based on the pictures and other questions, where would other people go?
it is a V8 SLR made in dandy, should i cut my losses and just wear the $3000 i paid or spend the cash
It is having the rear guards tubbed, glass bonnet, nose cone and front guards with flares.
Someone please go through the pics and give me an honest opinion, im lost
Cheers
JNR_ATE
http://s49.photobuck...nt=DSC05773.jpg
EXPERIENCED OPINIONS
Started by
_JNR_ATE_
, Nov 18 2011 07:11 PM
27 replies to this topic
#2
_Bomber Watson_
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 07:51 PM
All easily enough fixable. The graft on the P/S front has me a touch worried but shouldnt be to hard to check/rectify if needed.
If you cant do it yourself, your looking at major $$$. If you can fix it yourself, then go ahead!!
What im slicing up and welding stuff back into atm is way further gone than your car is.
Cheers.
If you cant do it yourself, your looking at major $$$. If you can fix it yourself, then go ahead!!
What im slicing up and welding stuff back into atm is way further gone than your car is.
Cheers.
#3
TempesT
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:16 PM
faark bit of rust there.... i see you have a mig. Thats a good start.
Look at the plus side, youll be a gun welder by the end of it!
Look at the plus side, youll be a gun welder by the end of it!
#4
lxsstorana
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:21 PM
All very fixable and very common for a 30 plus year old car.
Buy a grinder and welder and get stuck into it or maybe source someone local to do the work for you.
Buy a grinder and welder and get stuck into it or maybe source someone local to do the work for you.
#5
_Quagmire_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:23 PM
that is the beuaty/downfall of blasting....nothing hides once it's done
i'm with bomber.....you can salvage that
and a bonus is no riviots
i'm with bomber.....you can salvage that
and a bonus is no riviots
#6
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:28 PM
You guys are actually making me feel better bout the work needed. I'm only worried bout the b pillars and battery/guard section.
The work is going to be done by a retired trade school teacher working in my mates shop part time. Hopefully he is optimistic and likes getting paid in compliments and story telling opportunities.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
The work is going to be done by a retired trade school teacher working in my mates shop part time. Hopefully he is optimistic and likes getting paid in compliments and story telling opportunities.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#7
rodomo
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:31 PM
DO IT!it is a V8 SLR made in dandy,
1 step at a time.
#8
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:33 PM
I really need to take my cam to work and get some shots of the 76 lousville im doing up atm.....Makes that thing look factory fresh.
Cheers.
Cheers.
#9
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:49 PM
It will be quicker and cheaper to start with a better shell.
Considering you are tubbing and modifying the end result will be worth the same whether it is a SL/R or an SL so you may as well modify a SL.
The section that has been replaced on the passenger side front contained the chassis number. Now that has be cut and shut there is no why of proving that it is an original body SL/R so its value as an SL/R would be dubious anyhow.
Considering you are tubbing and modifying the end result will be worth the same whether it is a SL/R or an SL so you may as well modify a SL.
The section that has been replaced on the passenger side front contained the chassis number. Now that has be cut and shut there is no why of proving that it is an original body SL/R so its value as an SL/R would be dubious anyhow.
#10
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:53 PM
One hole at a time. Lol
Panel shop will look on Sunday and try not scare me.
Once it's done, it's done ay
I got it blasted for this reason, but was secretly hoping it was dipped in wax in '76 and nothing could hurt it.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
Panel shop will look on Sunday and try not scare me.
Once it's done, it's done ay
I got it blasted for this reason, but was secretly hoping it was dipped in wax in '76 and nothing could hurt it.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#11
rodomo
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:58 PM
I think the numbers are on the driver's side?The section that has been replaced on the passenger side front contained the chassis number.
#12
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:58 PM
The section that has been replaced on the passenger side front contained the chassis number. Now that has be cut and shut there is no why of proving that it is an original body SL/R so its value as an SL/R would be dubious anyhow.
My LH had it on the drivers side???
Edit, great minds Brodomo
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 18 November 2011 - 08:59 PM.
#13
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:17 PM
My mistake. When I looked at the photo I thought the drivers side had been replaced but it is just damaged. I was thinking one thing and writting another. I could not see if the chassis number is still on the the drivers side panel. Not really a good start for a big HP car.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 18 November 2011 - 09:26 PM.
#14
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:19 PM
My chassis number is on the RHS- drivers.
It matches what is on the tags off the car.
Your right about cutting up an SL/R, a SL would of been a cheaper option. Especially seeing I don't have any SL/R dash pieces and doors are still to be sourced.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
It matches what is on the tags off the car.
Your right about cutting up an SL/R, a SL would of been a cheaper option. Especially seeing I don't have any SL/R dash pieces and doors are still to be sourced.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#15
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:21 PM
You have it. Use it. Or send it to me, i'll fix it and keep it 
Cheers.
Cheers.
#16
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:26 PM
Thanks bomber, one section at a time I reckon.
Confidence appreciated guys.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
Confidence appreciated guys.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#17
Swarbs
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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:05 PM
Like Rodomo says 1 step at a time
Havent blasted mine yet but up against the same sort of thing (as below)
If you post up that you want some cuts for the tricky bits there may be someone with what you need
Or if you can wait till after Xmas i may be able to help with some - if you are ok with the postage
Havent blasted mine yet but up against the same sort of thing (as below)
If you post up that you want some cuts for the tricky bits there may be someone with what you need
Or if you can wait till after Xmas i may be able to help with some - if you are ok with the postage
#18
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 08:25 PM
Postage ain't A problem swarbs.
Does anyone have any b pillar sections or any of the major pieces I need.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
Does anyone have any b pillar sections or any of the major pieces I need.
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#19
_Ozzie Picker_
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 08:43 PM
personally after seing ALL the small repairs that need to be done,all wasn,t to bad.
THEN the bloody sun roof to top off the job and rust in roof,ferk,if your paying someone the bill will be huge by the time the paint is on.
if its a 5000 i,d do it ,if not,chuck it on ebay,you should get your money back,and buy a rust free SL,seeings your building a modified car anyway.
country cars are good.
THEN the bloody sun roof to top off the job and rust in roof,ferk,if your paying someone the bill will be huge by the time the paint is on.
if its a 5000 i,d do it ,if not,chuck it on ebay,you should get your money back,and buy a rust free SL,seeings your building a modified car anyway.
country cars are good.
Edited by 73BATHXU1HTBATH350, 19 November 2011 - 08:50 PM.
#20
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 09:36 PM
I probably should already know this but,
If it was originally built with a 253 and auto, clearly that isn't a 308
Does it still qualify as SL/R 5000? Or just V8 SL/R
Cheers
JNR_ATE
If it was originally built with a 253 and auto, clearly that isn't a 308
Does it still qualify as SL/R 5000? Or just V8 SL/R
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#21
rodomo
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 09:38 PM
5000 = 5 litre.............................so........................sadly................no
#22
_JNR_ATE_
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 09:43 PM
EBAY..................��
Cheers
JNR_ATE
Cheers
JNR_ATE
#23
eyepeeler
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 09:59 PM
This is part of the damage found after having my car blasted.
Damage.jpg 26.98K
3 downloads
Whilst mine doesn't have as much as yours it's all the same though, just more of the same. Whilst I agree 100% with you that it's really deflating to have this sort of thing reveal itself, the flip side is, as others have said, is that you get to fix it and have the satisfaction that you did it. It will roll out onto the street a brand new car and you will enjoy the car so much more. And the other up-side is that you will get pestered for advice on this forum when you become a gun at panel repair!!!!!
Damage.jpg 26.98K
3 downloadsWhilst mine doesn't have as much as yours it's all the same though, just more of the same. Whilst I agree 100% with you that it's really deflating to have this sort of thing reveal itself, the flip side is, as others have said, is that you get to fix it and have the satisfaction that you did it. It will roll out onto the street a brand new car and you will enjoy the car so much more. And the other up-side is that you will get pestered for advice on this forum when you become a gun at panel repair!!!!!
#24
_Quagmire_
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Posted 19 November 2011 - 11:53 PM
and then comes the saying "better the devil we know....."personally after seing ALL the small repairs that need to be done,all wasn,t to bad.
THEN the bloody sun roof to top off the job and rust in roof,ferk,if your paying someone the bill will be huge by the time the paint is on.
if its a 5000 i,d do it ,if not,chuck it on ebay,you should get your money back,and buy a rust free SL,seeings your building a modified car anyway.
country cars are good.
30-35 year old cars can hide a multiple of sins under the paint
your $$$$ your call
if you can weld grind hammer and fill
then steel and mig gas/wire is cheap compared to a professional beater
#25
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 20 November 2011 - 07:59 AM
IMO if you have the skills to do the work yourself, it's worth repairing. As mentioned, these are 35+ yo cars & most will have rust or old sub-standard repairs done in their past so sourcing another shell could be throwing good $$ after bad. It's luck of the draw really. If it were my car, first thing i'd be doing is checking the measurement of the front chassis. It looks to me like it has had a fairly big hit & hasn't been repaired very well. It would be heartbreaking to repair all the rust etc only to find nothing fits up properly due to a bent/twisted chassis. There are alot of reasonable quality repair sections available through Rare Spares etc (such as the battery & VIN trays) & it could even pay to source a reasonably clean UC shell to cut replacement sections from that aren't available ( such as the "B" pillar & door hinge pillars). Plenty of people on this forum have done this & UCs don't tend to fetch the kind of coin LH-LXs do.
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