30 replies to this topic

[ls2lxhatch]

Have you fitted an A9X style bump stop spacer to the k-frame to reduce compression travel?

I think you will find that full suspension travel at full lock is not possible. On full lock the front tyre should hit the guard long before the the suspension is on the bump stops. You would also have to wonder under what scenario you would actually bottom out the suspension when at full lock.

I have a similar setup but with tubular control arms. On full lock the Harrop steering arms just contact the lower control arm. I decided to reduce the steering rack travel on full lock by fitting a 10 mm spacer at each end of the rack.

The axle on the HQ stub is around 20 mm higher than the axle on the LX stub therefore the difference in ride height between the two if nothing else has been changed is 20 mm.

The most reliable way to get the exact ride height you want is to fit a set of springs and then get springs custom made based on the springs you fitted and the height difference you want. Custom made springs are not much more expensive than off the shelf springs. If you want something off the shelf then A9X springs would be a starting point.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 November 2011 - 03:10 AM.

[adgjl7]

yep i know what you are talking about, at full lock the bolt holding the hose to the brake caliper hits the subframe pushing the caliper piston back into the caliper leaving you with no brakes for the first pump of the brake pedal. this happens no matter where the suspension is in its travel, as i go pretty slow at full lock an being aware of it, it has not been an issue. i plan to make up a couple of plates to bolt or weld to the lower control arm on top of the existing bump plates to stop the steering going around so far,as i dont want to weld any thing to the steering arms. i guess a plate thickness of around that on that of the bump stops of the uc steering arms for a start, should not be hard to measure up. ps i run standard height heavy king springs on the front an 1" lowered on the rear with 15" wheels. abit high for some but i think it looks ok, cheers allan

[adgjl7]

ps the springs have settled abit since i posted the pics on my profile an i am talking about the wb alloy girlock calipers
as in the ones that look like the a9x that have the hose bolted to the side an had the artical done somewhere in these forums

[Statler]

http://www.gmh-toran...pers-a9x-style/

This one?

[adgjl7]

yep thats the one thanks

[ls2lxhatch]

Have you considered moving the brake hose from the side to the top of the caliper as per the A9X.

[ls2lxhatch]

This steering stops are something I am making myself. I still have not decided on the final design ( I have seven prototypes). Most of the designs and prototypes I have made require the rack to be disassembled to fit.

The simplest solution I have so far is to remove the rack boots and slip a wiring grommet with about a 22 mm inside diameter over the rack end and over the lock nut so it is crushed when the steering is turned full lock. Normally the rack travel is limited by the rod end lock nut.This method will reduce the travel around 5 mm for each grommet.

It is possible that the grommet on the drivers side could split and somehow work its way into the rack teeth but it seems rather unlikely. You will have to use your own judgement.



As I have disassembled the rack I will probably press a 10 mm nylon spacer into the rack tube at each end. It may be possible to make a similar nylon spacer with a slit in it that will allow it to be fitted over the rack while the rack is still assembled.




Photo by antelopeslr5000 from this thread

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 November 2011 - 02:50 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

Depending on how much thread you have on the tie rod ends you may be able to make a steering arm bump stop that is held on by the tie rod end nut. Basically a large diameter washer under the tie rod end nut.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 26 November 2011 - 02:47 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

Great minds think alike, I picked up an LX rack on the weekend so I would have a choice of ratios.

The spacers with grub screws was one of the designs I considered. I also found that the rack steps up from the threaded section enough so a spacer that is a snug fit on the thread will not be able to slide past the threaded/machined section on the rack.

After experimenting with several designs I ended up machining up alloy spacers that are a snug fit in the steering rack housing and are held in with an internal c-clip.

[Toranamat69]

Andy, Let me know your findings on rack ratio if you measure and compare LX and UC. I have measure 1, not the other. I think it is LX I have measured directly.

Coil62, where did you get a torana rack with 4.5 turns lock to lock? What is that out of?

[myss427]

I made some steering stops using the lower wishbone suspension stop, the one with the raised bump that sits next to the stub axle. I just cut the bump off square, drilled a hole in the front of the wish bone where the steering arm touches, put a nut and washer on the back (it has its own bolt built in) and your done. looks factory, and its a rubber stop not metal on metal. You know you can get a stop welded on the harrop steering arms, they are cast steel. Make sure you have it professionaly done because you are playing with the steering.

[ls2lxhatch]

The rubber stop is a good idea however it was not really an option for me as I have tubular control arms.

According to one of the parts manuals one of the racks 9940277 is listed as 25:1 which is about 4.5 turns lock to lock. I have a UC rack that is 9940277 but it is 3.25 turns lock to lock which works out around 18:1.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 13 December 2011 - 08:47 PM.

[Toranamat69]

I gather you meant 2 different numbers above ^.

What i am interrested in is if there is a difference in the rack and pinion ratio between UC and LX racks. I know they state different figures for the steering ratio, but they are very similar so this could be achieved with just the difference in steering arms. The only time I have ever directly swaped a rack LX to UC, I did a steering arm change as well so I couldn't compare just the rack ratios. I just need to know if there is a difference in number of teeth on the rack and number of teeth on the pinion. For no other reason than I like to know what options are out there.

Matt

[Toranamat69]

Excellent - thanks mate - you have put to rest something I have wondered for a long while, yet never had everything apart to compare all at the same time.

Matt

[ls2lxhatch]

One of the parts manuals, I can not remember which had the following ratios listed.

9932244 (was 9942632) gear assy 20.4:1 also shows it as 18:1 exc A9X
92003971 gear assy 18:1 A9X
92001807 gear assy 25:1 A9X

According to REDA9X there are only two standard Torana rations 20.4:1 and the 18:1. There is apparently another two A9X ratios one of which may be 25:1.

Toranamatt posted that the steering is around 34 degrees in and 31 degress out for a total of 65 degrees. Using this figure we can calculate the following.

18:1 65 * 18.0 / 360 = 3.25 turns lock to lock.
20.4:1 65 * 20.4 / 360 = 3.68 turns lock to lock.
25:1 65 * 25.0 / 360 = 4.51 turns lock to lock.

I have seen my UC rack 9940277 is listed as 25:1 which should be 4.5 turns lock to lock. However my UC rack has 30 teeth and the pinion has 5 teeth as posted by coil62. I just checked it on the bench without arms and from factory rack stop to stop is was a little over 3.5 which again is the same a coil62 posted. I am not sure where I got the 3.25 from, it may have been that my steering arms hit before the rack stops due to steering alignment issues.

It looks like LH/LX racks will be 18:1 and UC will be 20.4:1.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 13 December 2011 - 11:52 PM.

[Toranamat69]

I thought the 25:1 was an A9X ratio - hence my Q' as I have never seen one.

[myss427]

Matt, I have my brothers A9X at home, will check on the weekend, too much Christmas stuff going on at nights to get a chance.

Edited by myss427, 14 December 2011 - 08:27 AM.