Just found these Wilwood brakes to suit HQ and Torana for $1100
what do you guys think?
http://www.ebay.com....f#ht_659wt_1185
Wilwood Forged Dynalite Pro Series Front Brake Kit Holden HQ-WB And LH Torana
Started by
tsn007
, Dec 15 2011 07:38 PM
44 replies to this topic
#1
tsn007
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Posted 15 December 2011 - 07:38 PM
#2
dattoman
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Posted 15 December 2011 - 11:06 PM
Very small caliper and pad
Flex issues in caliper body
Not a fan
Flex issues in caliper body
Not a fan
#3
_Viper_
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Posted 15 December 2011 - 11:13 PM
But compared to Hoppers kit? which is the same price if not more....
Wilwood vs Hoppers
Solid Caliper Vs Sliding
2-peice Disc vs Solid
Sexy vs ugly (well disc and hub anyway, caliper looks average)
Pads do look a little smaller, altho the Hoppers ones have that big taper so the actual surface touching is about the same? until its worn down.
Wilwood vs Hoppers
Solid Caliper Vs Sliding
2-peice Disc vs Solid
Sexy vs ugly (well disc and hub anyway, caliper looks average)
Pads do look a little smaller, altho the Hoppers ones have that big taper so the actual surface touching is about the same? until its worn down.
Edited by Viper, 15 December 2011 - 11:16 PM.
#4
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 12:06 AM
Not saying the Hoppers kit is the be all and end all
I could and have done it better
But for budget people I'd pick the Hoppers over that kit any day
And by the way... Very few Hoppers kits run that caliper your Gemini runs ... certainly not the Torana or HQ kit... so not quite the same apples
People are happy to spend tens of thousands going fast and on pretty paint but get scared even spending $1500 doing their brakes
Opinion asked about what do we think
I think definatly not for me
But what doesn't suit me might suit others
I could and have done it better
But for budget people I'd pick the Hoppers over that kit any day
And by the way... Very few Hoppers kits run that caliper your Gemini runs ... certainly not the Torana or HQ kit... so not quite the same apples
People are happy to spend tens of thousands going fast and on pretty paint but get scared even spending $1500 doing their brakes
Opinion asked about what do we think
I think definatly not for me
But what doesn't suit me might suit others
#5
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 12:38 AM
You will probably find the kit much cheaper if you buy it from Summit or JEGS.
The kit does look nice but I think I would prefer either the Hoppers style or spend double+ the money on the AP Racing setup.
The kit does look nice but I think I would prefer either the Hoppers style or spend double+ the money on the AP Racing setup.
#6
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 07:31 AM
I have the same caliper on the Torana kit as I do on the Gemini?
#7
myss427
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 08:52 AM
I have the Hoppers 330 kit, spent a little time sanding the calipers and then buffed them and they look great. its only time.
#8
dattoman
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 09:36 AM
Gemini kit uses VT calipers... Torana and HQ kit uses AU2 calipers
#9
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 07:42 PM
Do they look near on identical?
Torana:
Gemini:
The fins do look slightly different, If they are different you can see why I thought they were the same. But I probly should know not to Argue with Neil when it comes to brakes
is the AU caliper better?
Torana:
Gemini:
The fins do look slightly different, If they are different you can see why I thought they were the same. But I probly should know not to Argue with Neil when it comes to brakes
is the AU caliper better?
Edited by Viper, 16 December 2011 - 07:45 PM.
#10
dattoman
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Posted 16 December 2011 - 07:58 PM
AU is better yes
VT is easy to spot as it has that clip around the body holding the pad
And it virtually bolts to the Gem stub with minor grinding
The AU2 has wider mounts and is easier to adapt a dog bone to the Holden stub
They tried to use VT calipers originally cause they were plentiful and cheap... but they failed
VT is easy to spot as it has that clip around the body holding the pad
And it virtually bolts to the Gem stub with minor grinding
The AU2 has wider mounts and is easier to adapt a dog bone to the Holden stub
They tried to use VT calipers originally cause they were plentiful and cheap... but they failed
#11
_BIGCAV_
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Posted 20 December 2011 - 10:51 PM
btw you can never get Wilwood brakes engineered in Aus, they have been illegal since the 60's due the brake hose threads from memory
#12
tsn007
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Posted 21 December 2011 - 06:12 AM
You will probably find the kit much cheaper if you buy it from Summit or JEGS.
The kit does look nice but I think I would prefer either the Hoppers style or spend double+ the money on the AP Racing setup.
what about the brakes from MR spares ebay seller UPC online at $1000 compared to hoppers at $1350
#13
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Posted 21 December 2011 - 09:36 AM
Have a read of some of the disaster stories about that supplier in previous threads
#14
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 21 December 2011 - 10:33 AM
I have been tempted to by the UPC/Mr Spares/Romac kit a couple of times. I can not understand how with the equipment that they have access to that they can not make a good kit yet somehow all you hear is problems.
In my mind there is a question mark over the discs, apparently UPC make their own discs, Hoppers use DBA.
In my mind there is a question mark over the discs, apparently UPC make their own discs, Hoppers use DBA.
#15
_pinklx_
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:20 AM
currently have those wilwood calipers on my lx on hq disks, lx stubs. made the mounting bracket myself. calipers from vpw were 163each pads 80 for a set. i need to upgrade my master cyl badley as i have alot of peddle travel now but they are still way better than the stock torana brakes. hopefully fitting the new 1,1/8" bore master should fix this. didnt even need a wheel alingment and the streering is no differant.
#16
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 11:39 AM
The piston area on the Willwood 120-6816 calliper is slightly smaller than the factory Torana PBR alloy calliper. You should be able to get a reasonable pedal with the 1" master.
Torana PBR cast iron
Piston 1 x 54.00 mm
Area 458 mm2
Torana PBR alloy
1 x 63.50 mm
Area 634 mm2
Willwood 120-6816
4 x 44.45 mm
Area 620 mm2
AU (Hoppers)
2 x 41.00 mm
Area 528 mm2
Torana PBR cast iron
Piston 1 x 54.00 mm
Area 458 mm2
Torana PBR alloy
1 x 63.50 mm
Area 634 mm2
Willwood 120-6816
4 x 44.45 mm
Area 620 mm2
AU (Hoppers)
2 x 41.00 mm
Area 528 mm2
#17
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:41 PM
im running the stock master atm but bought the 1 1/8th as the 9"diff i have here also has willwood 120-6807 4x1.38" pistons on vl disks. my frounts are 120-6815 4x1.75" pistons on hq disks. i havent fitted the master as i still have the drum brake diff in the care and my master and perportioning valve are disk/disk i figured puting those parts on now would cause rear brake problems.
#18
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 02:16 PM
The only difference in specs between the Wilwood 120-6816 and 120-6815 is the rotor thickness, presumably a different thickness spacer between the calliper bodies.
The piston area of the Willwood 120-6816/120-6815 is almost the same as the factory Torana PBR alloy callipers. Therefore in theory the pedal travel with the Wilwood should be the same as the pedal travel with the Torana PBR alloy callipers. However the factory pedal travel with the PBR alloy callipers is more than you will find on most modern cars.
The 1 1/8 master will reduce pedal travel and increase pedal effort required. It would be worth making sure that there is not some other problem that is causing your excessive pedal travel first.
http://www.wilwood.c...itemno=120-6816
http://www.wilwood.c...itemno=120-6815
The piston area of the Willwood 120-6816/120-6815 is almost the same as the factory Torana PBR alloy callipers. Therefore in theory the pedal travel with the Wilwood should be the same as the pedal travel with the Torana PBR alloy callipers. However the factory pedal travel with the PBR alloy callipers is more than you will find on most modern cars.
The 1 1/8 master will reduce pedal travel and increase pedal effort required. It would be worth making sure that there is not some other problem that is causing your excessive pedal travel first.
http://www.wilwood.c...itemno=120-6816
http://www.wilwood.c...itemno=120-6815
#19
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 02:46 PM
im running dot 5 fluid in the system and have been told this may cause a slightly more spoungey peddle feel? i also removed the rubber hoses and replaced them with braided stainless. addmittedly wilwoods are a basted to bleed and maybe i didnt do it right but my peddle when half depressed is ware the brakes start to work well and from there on they are great, just soft in the top half of the travell.
#20
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 02:52 PM
I run Dot 5 in my car, and pedal is fine...did take a little longer to bleed them is all. The air bubbles don't seem to work thier way out as easy as Dot 3 and 4 from what I read.
You might have to keep bleeding things...
You might have to keep bleeding things...
#21
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 03:02 PM
yeah ive been meaning to get back into it but with the diff change comeing up ive been putting it off as i have to do it then anyway, plus no-one sells dot5 here in town and its expencive as hell, i can actualy get two quarts of ebay from the states and pay $40 freight and still get it here for less than the price of a liter in oz. could verywell be in the bleed as when the car is turned off u can pump the peddle a few times and get it hard as hell but then u let ur foot off for a bit and it softens again.
#22
dattoman
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:21 PM
Get rid of the Silicone fluid
#24
dattoman
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 10:35 PM
Spongy
Aerates easily
Doesn't have the temp rating for proper heat control
Water isn't absorbed by the fluid ... but still gets into the system staying as molecules that turn to steam when superheated in say a caliper... = no brakes
Its just shite
Suitable for poofy paint and old english shit that goes slow
Oh and slew brakes on cranes
I would never use or recommend it
Aerates easily
Doesn't have the temp rating for proper heat control
Water isn't absorbed by the fluid ... but still gets into the system staying as molecules that turn to steam when superheated in say a caliper... = no brakes
Its just shite
Suitable for poofy paint and old english shit that goes slow
Oh and slew brakes on cranes
I would never use or recommend it
#25
_pinklx_
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Posted 11 February 2012 - 03:30 PM
yeah the only reason i have it in mine is cause it dosent eat the paint anyware if it spill's/leaks. ive seen so many lh/lx with the drivers side rail all rusty and no paint because of brake fluid. was trying to avoid that in mine. also with the crs hydrulic clutch kit wich i run dot 5 in as well is in such a basted of a spot to fill.
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