I'm looking at putting a 350 into a LX Torana hatch. Im trying to get hold of a UC K Frame as a lot of people have said its the way to go. What mods to the K Frame beside the engine mounts will be required to achieve this.
350 Chev in LX Hatch
Started by
_v8toyota_
, Mar 22 2012 06:04 PM
32 replies to this topic
#2
Struggler
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Posted 22 March 2012 - 06:13 PM
If you get a 6cyl or Starfire 4 crossmember then no mods are required. You use HQ SBC engine mount adapters and 308 rubber mounts to fit the SBC.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#3
_LXSS350_
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Posted 22 March 2012 - 06:18 PM
You need no modifications to kframe for a chev into LX.
Just buy a set of appropriate engine mounts.
Very common engine swap.
Haven't brought or have an opinion about these companies, but gives you some mount options and info (a starting point).
http://velocityauto....ategory&path=59
http://www.rodshop.com.au/
Just buy a set of appropriate engine mounts.
Very common engine swap.
Haven't brought or have an opinion about these companies, but gives you some mount options and info (a starting point).
http://velocityauto....ategory&path=59
http://www.rodshop.com.au/
#4
_v8toyota_
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Posted 22 March 2012 - 08:56 PM
Cheers for those links..
Yer I need to get hold of another K Frame as it originally had an opel motor. Been told that a UC K Frame is a better option as it doesnt require the shims.
Is there any difference in the sump setup or will a standard 350 sump slot straight in?
Yer I need to get hold of another K Frame as it originally had an opel motor. Been told that a UC K Frame is a better option as it doesnt require the shims.
Is there any difference in the sump setup or will a standard 350 sump slot straight in?
#5
_434LX_
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Posted 22 March 2012 - 09:05 PM
Cheers for those links..
Yer I need to get hold of another K Frame as it originally had an opel motor. Been told that a UC K Frame is a better option as it doesnt require the shims.
Is there any difference in the sump setup or will a standard 350 sump slot straight in?
Hi Jason,
I have just gone through this setup in the last couple of months.
I used tuff mounts ->http://velocityauto....9&product_id=92
and a 350 vortech crate motor to get the ball rolling. Its a one piece rear main type sump.
Bolted straight to the k-frame with no issues. I have also removed part of the upper lip where the dizzy will sit (just in case).
Cheers
Andrew
#6
_LXSS350_
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Posted 22 March 2012 - 10:08 PM
The HQ chev sump or any one of the aftermarket trick rear type sumps suit HQ-WB or one from early camaro.
Few eg
http://www.ebay.com....=item4aad607a5c
http://www.rodshop.com.au/sumps.htm
Few eg
http://www.ebay.com....=item4aad607a5c
http://www.rodshop.com.au/sumps.htm
#7
_the gts_
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Posted 23 March 2012 - 03:07 PM
if the steering had a guard around the coupling cut that off but that is all.
I would get an LX RTS k frame it has the lower bolt holes and then use the UC upper control arm with the offset ball joint.
If you are going to go very serious and need big pipes then you also need to modify any K frame you get and thin the arms that go back to chassis. if you need pics of that pm me your email address
I would get an LX RTS k frame it has the lower bolt holes and then use the UC upper control arm with the offset ball joint.
If you are going to go very serious and need big pipes then you also need to modify any K frame you get and thin the arms that go back to chassis. if you need pics of that pm me your email address
#8
dattoman
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Posted 23 March 2012 - 07:53 PM
As mentioned the UV Opel frame has a different position for the engine mounts
I think if you check CRS website they might still do the brackets to mount the Chev onto that frame still ... they used too
I think if you check CRS website they might still do the brackets to mount the Chev onto that frame still ... they used too
#9
_v8toyota_
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Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:12 AM
Thanks Neil..
I think i will go the option that "the gts" suggested as I allready have an LX RTS frame. I will have to hunt down some UC upper control arms. Just waiting for a reply from CRS in regards to the adapters for the chev. I allready have the HQ stubs/discs with the harrop arms setup. So hopefully this setup will work.
Are all UC upper control arms offset?
I think i will go the option that "the gts" suggested as I allready have an LX RTS frame. I will have to hunt down some UC upper control arms. Just waiting for a reply from CRS in regards to the adapters for the chev. I allready have the HQ stubs/discs with the harrop arms setup. So hopefully this setup will work.
Are all UC upper control arms offset?
#10
dattoman
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Posted 24 March 2012 - 04:12 PM
The balljoint location is
Thats why everyone wants them
Thats why everyone wants them
#11
_v8toyota_
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Posted 24 March 2012 - 08:28 PM
Bought a set of UC UCA's today.. so I'll see how this setup works for me.. However I didnt know until today you had to modify the frame to suit 1.7/8" primaries thou..
#12
_the gts_
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Posted 25 March 2012 - 11:14 AM
for 500hp you probably dont need 1.7/8
I am hoping for around 550hp with mine and I only have 1.3/4 primaries. what you need to remember is that you also have a starter on the drivers side.
Oh yea get a mini Hig torque starter. dont waste your time with any of the cheap brands just get a CVR. its a head f*ck to pull a starter out.
Also the best way i have found to fit the engine is by bolting it to the K frame and then lifting the body over the top. I can have mine out in about 2 hours now!
I am hoping for around 550hp with mine and I only have 1.3/4 primaries. what you need to remember is that you also have a starter on the drivers side.
Oh yea get a mini Hig torque starter. dont waste your time with any of the cheap brands just get a CVR. its a head f*ck to pull a starter out.
Also the best way i have found to fit the engine is by bolting it to the K frame and then lifting the body over the top. I can have mine out in about 2 hours now!
#13
_v8toyota_
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Posted 25 March 2012 - 03:04 PM
Yer I have noticed that the starter is not in the most favourable of postions. Do you still have to cut the frame if your using 1.3/4" ? Also whilst on the subject of 500hp+, do you run any chasis strengtheners??
#14
_the gts_
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Posted 25 March 2012 - 03:42 PM
Looking at it now, probably not but one reputable exhaust fabricator wouldnt even look at it unless i did it. I didnt use that guy in the end.
If you are in Perth go and visit Domenic from Prestige exhaust.
yes i have a modified chassis. Check out the car on the links i emailed you.
You may want to consider the fact that you will have difficulty getting 3" pipes down to the legal noise level though!
If you are in Perth go and visit Domenic from Prestige exhaust.
yes i have a modified chassis. Check out the car on the links i emailed you.
You may want to consider the fact that you will have difficulty getting 3" pipes down to the legal noise level though!
#15
_LXSS350_
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Posted 27 March 2012 - 01:26 AM
Lots of ways to achieve a build. The forum has a wealth of information in finding a solution and some very talented people. IMO 1" 3/4 primaries is the biggest pipe you would want. Common misconception is bigger is better, but as I have seen on a dyno that's not true because you go too big and you can loose bottom end torque and even hp. Its best to speak to your engine builder or seek advice on what will work best with your carby, manifold, cam, rev range and heads. Velocity is not a dirty word in building a strong engine with solid streetable low end torque and good hp.
Everyone inc myself have different ideas of what we will do or will not do and what we want to acheive. Never can't have enough options imo.
Some images (might help you) of some solutions that Torana owners have used.
Everyone inc myself have different ideas of what we will do or will not do and what we want to acheive. Never can't have enough options imo.
Some images (might help you) of some solutions that Torana owners have used.
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#16
_AD_75_
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Posted 27 March 2012 - 03:23 PM
If the car is to be registered do not use the above method shown in the car pictured on the hoist..running the exhaust thru the inner guards will be considered an illigal mod in most states. So much for not having to chop up the engine bay to fit a SBC eh LXSS350?
The better way to do it is to scallop the K frame as some of the above pictures show and then to trim down the frame rails in the engine bay which is a legal mod and will give you more room for the header pipes.
This is a forum members car showing trimmed frame rails in engine bay.
The better way to do it is to scallop the K frame as some of the above pictures show and then to trim down the frame rails in the engine bay which is a legal mod and will give you more room for the header pipes.
This is a forum members car showing trimmed frame rails in engine bay.
#17
_LXSS350_
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Posted 27 March 2012 - 05:59 PM
AD75 Just showing what options some have done to get big pipes in.
I don't advocate any as none are mine. Personally for a hot chev street motor in LH-LX I would never use anything bigger than a 1 5/8 Tri-Y. Never in my life have I trimmed Kframe or any other part to fit them up.
For the race cars I always use 4 into 1's that are dyno tuned to engine specs. But front ends are all chrome moly tube and coil-overs. So nothing is Torana and can't be applied to any road licensed Torana.
I don't advocate any as none are mine. Personally for a hot chev street motor in LH-LX I would never use anything bigger than a 1 5/8 Tri-Y. Never in my life have I trimmed Kframe or any other part to fit them up.
For the race cars I always use 4 into 1's that are dyno tuned to engine specs. But front ends are all chrome moly tube and coil-overs. So nothing is Torana and can't be applied to any road licensed Torana.
#18
_v8toyota_
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Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:03 PM
The car will be regestered ( in QLD ) so running the exhaust through the inner guard is not an option.. So, with that, is there any size exhaust I can use without having to modify the K Frame and without choking the motor ??
Coz at the moment, if Ive gotta chop the front end, the 350 will be slotted to the back of the shed and i will build 308 stroker which was my first option.
Appreciate all the input so far..
Coz at the moment, if Ive gotta chop the front end, the 350 will be slotted to the back of the shed and i will build 308 stroker which was my first option.
Appreciate all the input so far..
#19
_T0rana_
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Posted 27 March 2012 - 11:04 PM
had a 350 chev in my uc hatch only eng bay mods were the back of the fire wall tapped down with a hammer fit in good
#20
_T0rana_
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Posted 27 March 2012 - 11:06 PM
just for the dizzy to fit had it rego'd in qld all u need was v8 brake booster n good brakes
had to get chev into torana sump,gearbox cross member,v8 eng mounts,extractors fit without mods,needed small starter motor,and best to use a small dizzy
had to get chev into torana sump,gearbox cross member,v8 eng mounts,extractors fit without mods,needed small starter motor,and best to use a small dizzy
#21
_LXSS350_
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Posted 28 March 2012 - 02:59 AM
V8's into LH/LX are always tight around the starter and steering shaft, but just like a 308 there is absolutely no need to cut anything unless your going for ninth degree fully tuned system to suit high reving big horsepower engine. Finding the right custom exhaust guy however is a far bigger heartache. I gave up finding a good one years ago. So I make my own up using off the shelf mandrel bends and then get flanges profile cut to suit my head porting.
By doing it yourself (if no luck finding a good exhaust guy) its easy enough to get it spot on, really neat and tight. It takes many hours getting it tacked and sorted so if you don't have patience, start finding that elusive custom exhaust guy. The biggest primaries I have ever used in a street LX was 1 3/4 in a Tri-Y config, but most have been 1 5/8. This is because for real street use I prefer not to sacrifice low-mid range torque. Engines used into LH/LX have been 350-383-400 ranging between 400-580Hp with most engines being built to have max hp just under 6000rpm limit. I try to get max torque in by around 4500rpm.
Regardless of which v8, its tight in a Torana, so like any bolt on room saving solution I always use a rotatable small gear reduction starter for flexibility.
I move the engine forward a smidge on the mount adaptors. How much depends on the size of the distributor used, but by getting clearance this way is neater than something like the image below as I prefer not to cut the car. Specifically if its a genuine V8 SS. Don't mind cutting an SL for racing.
You can buy all the exhaust bits you need from place like difilippo, dkne etc
http://www.darrendif...au/diykits.html
http://www.dkne.com....ds-c-27_28.html
By doing it yourself (if no luck finding a good exhaust guy) its easy enough to get it spot on, really neat and tight. It takes many hours getting it tacked and sorted so if you don't have patience, start finding that elusive custom exhaust guy. The biggest primaries I have ever used in a street LX was 1 3/4 in a Tri-Y config, but most have been 1 5/8. This is because for real street use I prefer not to sacrifice low-mid range torque. Engines used into LH/LX have been 350-383-400 ranging between 400-580Hp with most engines being built to have max hp just under 6000rpm limit. I try to get max torque in by around 4500rpm.
Regardless of which v8, its tight in a Torana, so like any bolt on room saving solution I always use a rotatable small gear reduction starter for flexibility.
I move the engine forward a smidge on the mount adaptors. How much depends on the size of the distributor used, but by getting clearance this way is neater than something like the image below as I prefer not to cut the car. Specifically if its a genuine V8 SS. Don't mind cutting an SL for racing.
You can buy all the exhaust bits you need from place like difilippo, dkne etc
http://www.darrendif...au/diykits.html
http://www.dkne.com....ds-c-27_28.html
Edited by LXSS350, 28 March 2012 - 03:02 AM.
#22
_LXSS350_
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Posted 28 March 2012 - 03:20 AM
As seen in this thread things are tight even with certain distributors in the 308 the firewall is bloody close. Its not chev specific its just a bloody small tight area. People just tend to take the easy path and break out the grinder, gas axe and BBH which is simply not needed if you plan it right and think before you cut.
http://www.gmh-toran...o-fit-v8-dizzy/
Found an old thread about the big 4 - 1 pipes above that you might find interesting reading and helpful.
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/22779-castle-autos-extractors/page__view__findpost__p__237153
http://www.gmh-toran...o-fit-v8-dizzy/
Found an old thread about the big 4 - 1 pipes above that you might find interesting reading and helpful.
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/22779-castle-autos-extractors/page__view__findpost__p__237153
Edited by LXSS350, 28 March 2012 - 03:30 AM.
#23
Struggler
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Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:42 AM
First up, none of the pics so far show pipes going thru the inner guards. The Best Mufflers pipes thread around the lower control arms and outriggers before coming back to the conventional location.
For any street SBC Torana the Hurricane 4:1 1 5/8" pipes that T0rana has in both the red and black/chrome engine bays are sufficient and bolt in with no modifications. If you make more than about 300 HP then it pays to cut off the 2 1/8" collector and replace it with 2 1/2". This got my UC to an 11.0 quarter so they aren't too bad.
FWIW I would think an engineer would be more concerned about someone modifying the K frame than cutting a hole in an inner guard.
JMHO
For any street SBC Torana the Hurricane 4:1 1 5/8" pipes that T0rana has in both the red and black/chrome engine bays are sufficient and bolt in with no modifications. If you make more than about 300 HP then it pays to cut off the 2 1/8" collector and replace it with 2 1/2". This got my UC to an 11.0 quarter so they aren't too bad.
FWIW I would think an engineer would be more concerned about someone modifying the K frame than cutting a hole in an inner guard.
JMHO
#24
TerrA LX
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Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:54 AM
Struggler, Did you have to trim your firewall for the dizzy?
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