18 replies to this topic

[turbo76lx]

I thought i would put my trailer build here to help out anyone thinking of building one. Be patient it may take me a few weeks to put all the info

up. After hiring trailer for far to long i finally got around to building one, i searched the net for free plans but couldn't find any so i decided to just

start building one. To start with i went around a few servo and measured up some hire trailers and decided to make the outside of

the deck 1900x4000mm and the draw bar about 1600mm long.

I will go through how i build my trailer then go through what i would change if i were to build another one.

A quick cost of the build was about $3000, $980 for the trailer kit (springs, hubs, brakes, coupling, axles, including freight),

about $1000 for steel, $750 for new rims and tyres and $250 for lights, wiring, jockey wheel, paint.

The trailer kit was brough for Marshall Engineering, one of the d.i.y 2 tonne kits, i phoned them and gave the out side measurement of the

frame, the stud pattern of the wheels i would be using, the brakes i wanted and tyres i was going to use. They worked out the axle widths i

needed and had all the parts to me with in a week. I got the cable disc kit with the axles upgraded to 1.4 tonne and slipper springs.
http://www.marshall-...m_Axle_DIY.html

A few photos of the finished trailer.




Fold down guard for more door clearance.



Quick tie down point for front wheels.

[Mort]

Man that is a nice looking trailer and i like the front wheel tie down point and fold down guards.

Might be a stupid question but can you remove the spare tyre from underneath if you had a car on the trailer.

Can't wait for the plans and build story.

[Statler]

Cool! Suscribed*

[Mort]

I would subscribe but still can't get email notifications so will just have to drop in everyday.

[wot179]

Nice job.I really like the idea of fold down gaurds.

I would offer 2 suggestions,some self adhesive 3mm thick foam along the siderail where the gaurds are gunna rub to stop them rattling

and a diagonal on the winch bar to stop it flexing if you have to pull up something heavy.

You could make it bolt on so you dont ruin the paint.

Good stuff.

[Peter UC]

We have heaps of 3mm adhesive foam down in Hawthorn if you want some Redder, I can easily organise for some to come up to Shep if you want.

[turbo76lx]

Mort, a few people have asked about the spare being in the deck/ under the car, you can't get the spare out without backing the car off the trailer

which doesn't worry me. If i had to change a tyre on a car trailer i would back the car off the trailer because most of the time i only have the jack that

is in the tow car, which would most likely be my commodore and i don't think i would like to climb under the trailer and use a dodgy commodore

scissor jack to change a wheel. You could mount the spare on the draw bar if you like. When i get a chance i will be folding up an aluminium box

to enclose the sparewheel and also store some tools, spare wheel bearings and the tie down straps when not being used.

wot179, i know it looks like the winch should have a diagonal brace but the force need to bend a peice of 75x50x3 rhs 250mm long off the draw

bar would snap the cable before bending the rhs, i was worried about this myself but after talking to one of the engineers at work he roughly

worked out the force it would take to tear off the whinch and told me not to worry about it.

Peter, i got lots of 3mm foam up here at shep from the controller housings, when are you getting yours on the road.

Edited by turbo76lx, 29 June 2012 - 06:51 PM.

[yel327]

Nice work. I just galvanised mine, wish i'd seen your front wheel tie-downs first!

I used a HQ-HZ sedan/wagon/coupe rear numberplate frame to hinge my plate.

Before I galvanised it I uprated it to 3.0tonne, so now it has 4 wheel electric brakes and a breakaway unit.

[turbo76lx]

Here is the info that came with the trailer kit.



This page tells you how to work out where to place the springs. I made the distance from the centre eye of each spring 715mm,

some of the trailers that i went and measured ranged from 690-730mm.

[Peter UC]

Mine is on the road, I've done about 100km in it so far and the inner valve springs went in today.

[Shtstr]

Man i love the front wheel clamp idea but not sure why u would have fold down guards apart from the fact you might hit a car door on them???
Overall very well done.
The 1 i'am doing is 1850x4150 so very close to the same size.
Might have to include the front wheel clamp.

[turbo76lx]

Dave, only the drivers side guard folds down. I only done this incase i had a very low car. From the deck to the top of the guard is 220mm,

with the guard folded down it is 170mm. With the front wheel clamps if i was doing it again i would make a swing-up bracket that the strap

hooks on to behind the wheel which is welded to the plate and not worry about the bars behind the wheel. Hope that makes sense.





Haven't had time to draw up the plans but here's some more photos.

[warrenm]

Are the front wheel brackets bolted or pinned to the floor?

[turbo76lx]

warrenm, the mounts are bolted so i can move them, also have a R clip through the bolt incase the nut comes loose. I will also be drilling

another row of holes down the centre of the mounting plate so i can move them to the left or right.

[turbo76lx]

Drew up some plans.





Also some more info here. http://www.infrastru...01_June2009.pdf