30 replies to this topic

[S pack]

Jacob, hate to tell you mate but your steering column has been moved across to the right through the firewall to fit a V8. Hence the LH type steering uni on the steering shaft in the engine bay. The original Torana clutch and brake pedal assy is never going to work. The clutch and brake pedals come down on the right hand side of the column, they don't go one on either side of it.

I'm also suspecting the engine mounts on the crossmember have been modified causing your engine to sit too high, making the 3/4 shift rod foul on the transmission tunnel.

Best thing to do right now would be to put the Trimatic back in until you can sort out how to bring it back to original (if possible).

[S pack]

This is how the LC/LJ 6cyl pedal assy is set up.

[S pack]

G/day Jacob

Had a bit of think about your clutch pedal problem today. With some modification to the clutch pedal and using a cable clutch setup instead of the original linkages you might be able to do the manual conversion.

[S pack]

Thanks Dave firstly for pointing it out as i was getting bad migraines from the drama, but, after thinking about it today and receiving encouragement from my mechanic (uncle), i have started to modify it to get it to work. the strange thing is the the auto brake pedal is actually a manual brake pedal adapted to work. what i couldn't figure out is why the pivot rod was longer on the 'auto' brake pedal, compared to the one i had acquired. This was so you could still slot a clutch pedal over on the other side and fit the retaining pin to prevent the clutch pedal slipping off. I spoke to CRS and they suggested the same thing so it can be done. What i have done is grind back everything from what was originally the auto pedal as the one i purchased has a short rod and will not work unless it is extended. Tomorrow i will cut up the clutch pedal and reshape it with a left hand kink rather than a right hand one. Hopefully this will all work, even with the rat trap cable as the clutch still sits where it should on the pedal box (i think). the only thing i am concerned with thus far is how to mount the clutch return spring because i cant seem to find the upper mounting rod. would anyone have an exploded view or even a picture of this?

Is this the diagram you need, item #8? 1st post in the thread.
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/54620-qld-wanted-ljlc-pedal-box-parts/

Factory automatic models don't have the clutch over centre pin/shaft (#8 in the diagram) fitted. I'm sure you will find the pin/shaft from a manual car will be too short and will also need to extended just as the brake pedal shaft has been extended.

Personally I would straighten the leg of the pedal to get past the column (as you have already thought of) and then kick it across to the right to get the clutch pedal pad closer to the brake pedal and also get away from the area of the firewall where it curves in to form the transmission tunnel.
If the pedal hits against this curve and not the flat part of the firewall you may not attain correct clutch pedal travel.

Also, with the clutch pedal having to be approx 30 or 40mm further to the left than normal I can't imagine the clutch pull rod through the firewall is going to want to line up with the pedal anchor properly.

Just a few suggestions.

Cheers
Dave.

[debkar]

Wow Jacob, just saw this thread, this is turning into a major project.

If it was my car, I would return the column to where it needs to be, unless you really plan a V8 transplant in the future and go with non modified parts.

I'm with Dave, possibly go with a cable set up if you can't go back to original, as you can drill the hole for the cable where you need it on the firewall. Cable would need cable type bell housing,

I've gone with cable in my car, sold all the rat trap bits, using 4 cyl torana clutch pedal (they have cable to start with) but you could use the 6 cyl pedal with a cable hook welded on, WB bell housing (fits blue pressure plate if you want to use one- larger diameter) and WB clutch cable.

Do you need the over centre return spring mount? I may have one in the shed,

Keep plugging away

Regards Simon

Edited by debkar, 17 July 2012 - 08:44 PM.

[S pack]

Just looking at the pics of your pedals, I reckon you could cut up the brake pedal that is surplus to your needs and use that to modify your clutch pedal. That way you'll have a ready made kick to the right for the new clutch pedal.

Edited by S pack, 17 July 2012 - 09:07 PM.

[debkar]

Hi Jacob,

The original clutch pull rod fits into a clevis that attaches to the clutch pedal, do you have that part?

Edited by debkar, 17 July 2012 - 09:00 PM.

[originalglenn]

why not just move the steering back where it should be?

[S pack]

Hi Jacob,

The original clutch pull rod fits into a clevis that attaches to the clutch pedal, do you have that part?

The anchor that fits onto the pin on the clutch pedal looks the same as the one that the other end of the pull rod connects to on the relay lever.

[debkar]

Here it is Jacob,

[hanra]

why not just move the steering back where it should be?

I reckon leave it where it is and fit a V8!!!!

[debkar]

Last pic for the night, my LC 4 cyl clutch pedal in the 6cyl pedal box, works well

[debkar]

Hi Jacob

Do you have any pics so far of the work? I'm keen to see

Simon

[debkar]

Hi Jacob

Here is one from another thread on here

http://i252.photobuc...07/PIC_0006.jpg

Edited by debkar, 21 July 2012 - 10:48 AM.

[debkar]

Good stuff, will check them out,

[S pack]

i purchased a set of pedal bushes from rares and i must say i am not impressed. the pivot rod would not push through the first bush no matter what so i had to cut part of it off and managed to get it through. it went through nicely on the other side however i could not get the bushes in the clutch pedal over the rod and had to assemble it without them. did i do something wrong?

Hi Jacob

Are all the bushes in the kit the same or do two of them have a thicker wall than the other two (ie: same ID but larger OD)?