Very jealous.
For 2 reasons :
1. Great idea and will be an awesome build
2. You are getting very positive response on here and I got slammed when I posted ideas about doing something similar and mine was oinly going to be cutting up a UC !!
Now I have an LX as well so will be watching your progress eagerly.
Good Luck.
784 replies to this topic
#52
Shtstr
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- Name:Mmmmmmm
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Posted 25 December 2012 - 08:09 PM
why do all this work to the 4 door when you are doing the hatch?????
#53
turbo76lx
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Posted 25 December 2012 - 08:51 PM
The yellow 4 door is just the test mule to make sure everything is going to fit into the hatch.
#54
_niterida_
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Posted 25 December 2012 - 10:16 PM
Are you doing it without cutting any of the existing Torana chassis rails ? My engineer frowns upon any mods to the chassis rails.
He also said I was not allowed to modify the firewall in any way whatsoever - is your engineer ok with your flat firewall ?
He also said I was not allowed to modify the firewall in any way whatsoever - is your engineer ok with your flat firewall ?
#55
_Emu_
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Posted 25 December 2012 - 10:55 PM
Epic.....totally epic.
Will watch and patiently wait
Will watch and patiently wait
#56
turbo76lx
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Posted 26 December 2012 - 07:42 AM
Ken, the fire wall is just a flat sheet stiched welded over the original fire wall.
In the rear there is no cutting of the chassis rail only need to make a small depression ( about 2mm) to clear the top link arms on the subframe.
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The front needs the folds in the wheel arch where the coilover is needs to be removed. The engineer in happy with this.
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Edited by turbo76lx, 20 October 2017 - 07:05 PM.
#57
Peter UC
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Posted 26 December 2012 - 10:27 PM
I thought you were going to finish the sedan before getting carried away with the hatch.
#58
_mick74lh_
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Posted 26 December 2012 - 10:31 PM
Hey mate thanks for sharing your project. Very inspirational. You seem to always follow very productive methods of working.
Speaking of your sedan, any progress on that lately? I was frothing at the last lot of pictures of it.
Speaking of your sedan, any progress on that lately? I was frothing at the last lot of pictures of it.
#59
turbo76lx
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Posted 27 December 2012 - 07:36 AM
I should be working on the orange sedan but i'm amazed with how many excuses i can come up with not to work on it.
#61
hawk
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Posted 27 December 2012 - 02:08 PM
Wow amazing work and a great idea just had a read of it and cant believe they will engineer it cant wait to see more progress
#62
turbo76lx
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Posted 27 December 2012 - 06:17 PM
When is the kit version due?
Never say never. Doing the subframe isn't to hard, the cut outs for the coilovers is the hard part.
If you had a custom set of coilovers made that had a smaller diameter so the would fit into the original shock mounts, it
would reduce the amount of work needed to do a conversion and would also reduce the width if the wheels you could run.
The shock towers would probably still need a small amount of extra renforcement.
#63
turbo76lx
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Posted 27 December 2012 - 07:45 PM
Made up a bracket on the subframe to mount the ATTESA pump (the hydraulic pump for the 4wd system).
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Also started mounting a clutch master cylinder under the dash. Using a master cylinder from a toyota hiace.
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Edited by turbo76lx, 20 October 2017 - 07:11 PM.
#64
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 02:01 AM
That clamp might hit your knee some times, especially on hard corners.. better adjust it a little 
#65
turbo76lx
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 06:43 AM
Don't think i'll be driving it far at the moment.
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Edited by turbo76lx, 20 October 2017 - 07:12 PM.
#67
turbo76lx
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 05:49 PM
Got the clutch master cylinder done. Made up a comp plate to pick up the brake and clutch pivot bolts, which will also
help transfer the position of the mounting holes to the hatch. The big hole is the outlet port.
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Needed a bit of clearance around the banjo nut.
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Added another adjustable pedal stopper, i only needed 25mm of travel in the master cylinder to match the nissan master cylinder.
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The pedal
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If anyone was going to copy this set up it probably will work with the foot park brake. The part number for the master cylinder is JB1521.
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Edited by turbo76lx, 20 October 2017 - 07:23 PM.
#68
View GaragePosted 28 December 2012 - 06:50 PM
Nice setup with the master cylinder and good to see someone adapting parts rather than just forking over big bucks for custom made stuff!
After repeated use and abuse (especially with a bottom stop) I've found that my pedal keeps bending/twisting across the section where the pivot bolt goes through. I reinforced it with an extra piece of steel across the back (toward the firewall) to partially box that section and seems to be good now, might be worth doing while you're at it.
After repeated use and abuse (especially with a bottom stop) I've found that my pedal keeps bending/twisting across the section where the pivot bolt goes through. I reinforced it with an extra piece of steel across the back (toward the firewall) to partially box that section and seems to be good now, might be worth doing while you're at it.
#69
hawk
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 06:58 PM
Would it be possible to do the rear subframe and leave the front stock torana. And still use the standard motor like a 202 or 308 with a custon driveshaft or would the driveshaft angle be wrong? Or foul without tunnel mods
#70
_Emu_
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 07:13 PM
My god, you've been on the big jobs bloke. 
#71
_niterida_
_niterida_
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 07:33 PM
Would it be possible to do the rear subframe and leave the front stock torana. And still use the standard motor like a 202 or 308 with a custon driveshaft or would the driveshaft angle be wrong? Or foul without tunnel mods
I thought that but then you don't get easy access to bigger brakes and wheels and coilovers, not to mention POWER STEERING
#72
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 28 December 2012 - 07:37 PM
And the front and rear roll centers are probably way out, but, no idea on that one, just a guess.
#73
turbo76lx
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Posted 01 January 2013 - 12:06 PM
Got the rear floor patched to allow the 50x50 angle for the rear subframe mount to sit against the floor and put the subfame in.
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Looks like i will be able to mount the coilovers on the original shocker mounts without cutting in the wheel arch.
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Edited by turbo76lx, 20 October 2017 - 07:28 PM.
#74
_2wild4u_
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Posted 02 January 2013 - 12:47 AM
far out havnt been on here for a while, some big modifications happening
far out havnt been on here for a while, some big modifications happening
far out havnt been on here for a while, some big modifications happening
#75
turbo76lx
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Posted 02 January 2013 - 07:18 PM
Made up some more of the rear coilover mount, covered in the old spring mount to add some strength.
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Edited by turbo76lx, 20 October 2017 - 07:30 PM.
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