hi all im new to all this stuff i hope im in the right area
just brought my new hurricane headers for my 350 chev lx hatch realy tight fit but finally figured how to get them in and now the clearance between shaft and header is about 10 mm and thats not with the uni on yet the standard one has got no chance so is there a more compact version out there hope some one can help cheers
what steering uni joint to fit hurricane extractors on 350 chev
Started by
_smith_
, Dec 29 2012 10:04 AM
11 replies to this topic
#2
_434LX_
_434LX_
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Posted 29 December 2012 - 10:48 AM
Hi Mark,
You can get a solid uni as opposed to the rag one, but it can lead to other problems.
IMHO you would be better off taking the car to an exhaust shop and getting the primary pipe in question modified.
You can get a solid uni as opposed to the rag one, but it can lead to other problems.
IMHO you would be better off taking the car to an exhaust shop and getting the primary pipe in question modified.
#3
_smith_
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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:22 AM
thanks andrew
just to be sure were on the same track im taking about where the steering coulum passes through the fire wall and where the shaft joins to the first joint which is the big block of metal it would need the pipe to be moved at least 20mm then the pipe would hit the sub frame i think hurricane never said anything about having to change any parts or mods maybe i have the wrong engine mounts which i brought from chev power along with a 5mm spacer to raise up the engine to miss the sump to frame
just to be sure were on the same track im taking about where the steering coulum passes through the fire wall and where the shaft joins to the first joint which is the big block of metal it would need the pipe to be moved at least 20mm then the pipe would hit the sub frame i think hurricane never said anything about having to change any parts or mods maybe i have the wrong engine mounts which i brought from chev power along with a 5mm spacer to raise up the engine to miss the sump to frame
#4
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:58 AM
If you are using the HQ-WB 350 adaptor plates then you may have them on the wrong sides. The adaptor plates are designed to raise the engine on the drivers side of the HQ. The tricky part is that the thinner 30 mm adaptor raises the engine and the thicker 40 mm adaptor lowers the engine. The engine height is affected by the position of the block holes more than it is be the thickness of the adaptor. You can see that the holes for the rubber mount are lower in the 30 mm adaptor than they are in the 40 mm adaptor. The lower the holes the higher the engine.
In this picture you can see the adaptors are on the wrong sides.
In this picture you can see the adaptors are on the wrong sides.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 29 December 2012 - 12:02 PM.
#5
_434LX_
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Posted 29 December 2012 - 01:05 PM
Take a photo Mark, LS2 might be on the right track.
#6
_smith_
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 12:22 AM
thanks andrew and ls2
i dont know how i missed that but it fixed that problem, my next problem is the steering housing is about 3 to 4 mm away from exhaust may have to tap it in a bit to get the 10 mm clearance required to go over pits, do you know is there much differance between modified sump compared to a camaro sump in depth wise, because i put a 6 mm spacer in between mounts to get clearance over sub frame maybe it might require me removing spacer plate finding a shallower sump then it may lower down the engine enough to get clearance around steering housing does any of this sound reasonable
, thanks again guys
i dont know how i missed that but it fixed that problem, my next problem is the steering housing is about 3 to 4 mm away from exhaust may have to tap it in a bit to get the 10 mm clearance required to go over pits, do you know is there much differance between modified sump compared to a camaro sump in depth wise, because i put a 6 mm spacer in between mounts to get clearance over sub frame maybe it might require me removing spacer plate finding a shallower sump then it may lower down the engine enough to get clearance around steering housing does any of this sound reasonable
, thanks again guys
#7
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 02:11 AM
You can trim the steering column closer to the firewall and relocate the lower bearing. This also removes the hole for the column shift.
You can either reuse the factory bearing setup or replace the bottom bearing with a 6205-2RS-1 bearing. You will find more information and a couple of different methods in this thread.
You can either reuse the factory bearing setup or replace the bottom bearing with a 6205-2RS-1 bearing. You will find more information and a couple of different methods in this thread.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 30 December 2012 - 02:14 AM.
#8
Struggler
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Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:06 PM
You really need a Torana specific sump.
The front section over the rack and crossmember is a lot shallower than any other sump.
The front section over the rack and crossmember is a lot shallower than any other sump.
#9
_toranahatchbacks_
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Posted 31 December 2012 - 08:31 PM
I bought CRS extractors and there mini starter and cross member for the t400 and it was no problems.
#10
_smith_
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Posted 02 January 2013 - 11:06 PM
thanks you andrew ls2 and struggler
did the steering mod worked well the problem now is the new uni that i go from rare parts is a bit bigger than standard but the cotter pins and head hit the headers in 3 differant places do you need to knock the areas in or have i missed something else
did the steering mod worked well the problem now is the new uni that i go from rare parts is a bit bigger than standard but the cotter pins and head hit the headers in 3 differant places do you need to knock the areas in or have i missed something else
#11
_smith_
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Posted 02 January 2013 - 11:28 PM
having problems putting up photos hope you all have e.s.p
will keep trying or can i send some one a email
thank to all
will keep trying or can i send some one a email
thank to all
#12
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 03 January 2013 - 12:03 AM
Would moving the uni forward or back 5-10 mm make a difference?
There is a bit of forward/backwards movement available at each cotter pin joint. The steering column is collapsible. It does not take much to break the assembly joint in the column. If the assembly joint has been broken then the column may have moved forwards or backwards a bit.
There is a bit of forward/backwards movement available at each cotter pin joint. The steering column is collapsible. It does not take much to break the assembly joint in the column. If the assembly joint has been broken then the column may have moved forwards or backwards a bit.
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