4 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

Stripped my front end apart and want to get some advice on a few areas.

Firstly the top bump stops were both smashed and squashed. You can just see it under the top wishbone. Is this normal or does it indicate a problem.

My guess theory is the taller the spring the more the bump stop gets hammered?  I'd like to get lowered spring so this may not be an issue later.

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I'd also like to drill these holes lower as per the XU-1 set-up and have read through "the second hole easy tiger thread"

www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/53035-the-second-hole-easy-tiger/page-2?hl=%2Beasy+%2Btiger#entry710535

My question is...one hole on one side is 5mm lower than the rest. What do I do? Just redrill all holes 16mm lower or get them all level at 16mm lower. Couldn't find a definative answer in the thread mentioned.

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What's the story with this brace, right next to kframe to chassis lower mounts? My car doesn't have it but others do?  Is it only on certain models?

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Cheers

Marty

Edited by sibhs, 04 March 2013 - 10:43 PM.

[S pack]

Marty

 

Yeah, the upper bump stop rubbers do seem to get punished a bit, the older the rubber is the easier it splits. Installing lowered springs will give a bit more clearance between the upper bump rubber and the tower.

 

Not quite sure what you mean that one upper control arm mounting hole is 5mm lower than the rest.

Is the hole in question 5mm lower than the corresponding hole for the opposite control arm?

AFAIK the centreline through the two mounting holes is not parallel with the top of the tower (where the crossmember mounts up to the chassis rail).

Basically you just drill each hole 16mm (centre to centre) lower than the existing hole.

 

The chassis rail to floor pan brace is found on all BLJ prefixed chassis's. It's a 1973 model thing, along with the double skin transmission tunnel and the braced engine splash guard.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression your LJ is a 1973 build.

 

Cheers

Dave.

Edited by S pack, 04 March 2013 - 11:26 PM.

[S pack]

Just had another look at The Marty Report, my bad, she's a 1972 LJ.  I must be going senile.

 

Cheers

Dave.

[sibhs]

Marty

 

Yeah, the upper bump stop rubbers do seem to get punished a bit, the older the rubber is the easier it splits. Installing lowered springs will give a bit more clearance between the upper bump rubber and the tower.

 

Not quite sure what you mean that one upper control arm mounting hole is 5mm lower than the rest.

Is the hole in question 5mm lower than the corresponding hole for the opposite control arm?

AFAIK the centreline through the two mounting holes is not parallel with the top of the tower (where the crossmember mounts up to the chassis rail).

Basically you just drill each hole 16mm (centre to centre) lower than the existing hole.

 

The chassis rail to floor pan brace is found on all BLJ prefixed chassis's. It's a 1973 model thing, along with the double skin transmission tunnel and the braced engine splash guard.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression your LJ is a 1973 build.

 

Cheers

Dave.

I measured from the top down and 3 holes are 40mm and one is 45mm, stands out like dogs balls.

Why is it like this? Have the guys in the factory just been sloppy or is it a carefully drilled hole making allowances for other steering dynamics?

I'm glad you mentioned the double skinned tunnel, I hadn't realised that.

Thanks Dave, great info.

 

Cheers

Marty

[S pack]

I measured from the top down and 3 holes are 40mm and one is 45mm, stands out like dogs balls.

Why is it like this? Have the guys in the factory just been sloppy or is it a carefully drilled hole making allowances for other steering dynamics?

I'm glad you mentioned the double skinned tunnel, I hadn't realised that.

Thanks Dave, great info.

 

Cheers

Marty

That hole must have been a factory f%#k up.

You might have to weld the hole up and drill a new one in the correct position or just weld it up and drill the XU1 spec holes.