13 replies to this topic

[sibhs]

My drivers door has a front gap of 7mm and back of 2mm,  I want to move the door forward by a couple of mm's to compensate and even out the gaps.  The front guard looks good to the cowl.

I'm sure there is a thread but I can't find how you move these hinges.  Do you heat them and hit with hammer?

or just bend with special lever?  The back of the door also needs to lift 5mm to align with the lines.  

the car is stripped to bare shell and new pins are fitted with no slop.

 

Any ideas appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

[S pack]

http://www.gmh-toran...need-adjusting/

[sibhs]

Thanks Dave, that's what I'm looking for.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

[71xu1]

Hi Marty I just had a look at the link on how to adjust the hinges lots of choices. Best way to do them is take the door off measure and mark a refernce point that you can measure to then get a piece of harwood on the round section and hit with a gympie dont pussy foot around they take a bit to move. If this doesnt work for you just straight gympie. Brickies bolster leaves nasty marks even if dulled off with masking tape etc. Lifting the door with a jack or simply lifting the door only puts stress on the door frame around the hinges and the door will eventually drop again because you are only bending the frame not the hinge. One other thing to look for has the door had a skin on it? Have the welds broken that hold the skin? on its pretty common.

 

Cheers Dave

[sibhs]

Hi Dave,

makes sense with the measurements and door off system for moving the door forward.  What about lifting the back of door up? Thought that might be better done with door on, then hit top hinge. Just thinking this so that bottom hinge stays aligned with top.

Doesn't look like a skin has been put on, old paints the same as panels and skin looks intack, i'll triple check anyway.

Kierans shifter idea sounds good too?

 

Thanks Dave

 

Marty

[S pack]

Marty

 

Personally I think it's better to do the adjustment with door on if using the block of wood and hammer method. Easier to quickly check how the gaps are going rather than having to remove and refit the door a number of times.

[71xu1]

Hi Dave,
makes sense with the measurements and door off system for moving the door forward.  What about lifting the back of door up? Thought that might be better done with door on, then hit top hinge. Just thinking this so that bottom hinge stays aligned with top.
Doesn't look like a skin has been put on, old paints the same as panels and skin looks intack, i'll triple check anyway.
Kierans shifter idea sounds good too?
 
Thanks Dave
 
Marty

Hi Marty yep I should of added when you get it close to were you want put the door back on for final adjustment, I find if you try and do the whole process with the door on you can't get a proper swing at it takes forever to move the hinges. But in general you will be surprised how close it works with the door off.

Cheers Dave

[sibhs]

This is the correct tool from the day... Hard to get..

 

But looks easy to make..

 

Thanks a heap guys.

 

Marty

[S pack]

Marty

 

I suspect making one out of mild steel will just bend out the thin bar on the ends the first time you use it.

[71xu1]

Those tools are good for getting the door up but not for moving the whole door forward.

[sibhs]

Did some adjusting this arvo, used Daves method with the door off and very happy with result.  Did have to use a gympie hammer and give it a few hard wacks. Probably put the door on and off 3 times until it was right.

Before pics

 IMG_2659.jpg   37.09K   12 downloads  IMG_2658.jpg   34.76K   9 downloads

after, just a little fine tuning to get the gap even all the way down, presume this will be a bit of grinding and welding.

 IMG_2715.jpg   41.22K   7 downloads  IMG_2716.jpg   30.04K   8 downloads

Also lifted the back of the door with an extra wack to the top hinge.

 IMG_2717.jpg   39.92K   8 downloads

 IMG_2718.jpg   34.68K   8 downloads

Thanks to all the help guys.

 

Cheers

 

Marty

[S pack]

Very good Marty

 

Just keep in mind that the added weight of the glass, the regulator, 1/4 window assy, door lock mechanism etc may cause the door to sag slightly.

Grab all the parts that go into one door (incl door trim) and weigh them, then find something of equivalent weight (lead is ideal) and place it inside the door at about half way along and see if your alignment changes.

Edited by S pack, 11 April 2013 - 11:06 PM.