Hi everyone.
This question comes about because of two things ive gotto do.
Firstly I've bought a trailer, and ive gotto stop the rust thats happening. From what i can see even though the rust has turned pretty heavy in some areas, (leaving large flakes of metal), its mainly surface rust.
I've got it in my head that i can "scrape" off the loose stuff and maybe sand some of the surface rust and then use a "Rust converter" to stop further rust, and then do any repairs that are needed.
Also I have the SL/R which has some pretty serious rust in the back end and by the sounds of it in the doors.
I was wondering if i'm on the right track with the trailer, and would the same method be acceptable to use on the torana to STOP the rust from going further before i get the time to actually repair the torry propperly?
Has anyone used a commercially available rust convertor ( I used a "kitten" brand small bottle on some surface stuff in the monaro and it did a great job), and If so what brand they would reccomend. Also if there are any tips or tricks that i should follow when trying to use this gear!
Any help appreciated!
Cheers
Tiny.
POR15 and Other Rust Convertors
Started by
Tiny
, Jul 05 2006 06:06 PM
92 replies to this topic
#1
Tiny
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:06 PM
#2
FastEHHolden
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:21 PM
I have used it heaps on farm machinery and cars..but I have never painted over it...I used "Solver". It basically turns blue when it touches rust and feels like a plastic skin....sort of like what you get when you get craft glue on you hands.
For the trailer...get a sledge hammer and give it a big hit and the big flakes of rust will fall off....just get all the debris off and paint it on.
It will work in the SLR..but it won't look pretty.
For the trailer...get a sledge hammer and give it a big hit and the big flakes of rust will fall off....just get all the debris off and paint it on.
It will work in the SLR..but it won't look pretty.
#3
LXM21
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:26 PM
Tiny, I dont think you can beat POR15, good stuff (not cheap). Has been covered on the forum before. Used some on a hatch I am restoring, extremley happy.
#4
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:32 PM
Thanks FastEH! THe kitten stuff i used turned a greeny blue too but allowed you to paint over it... I might se if there's anything else that doesnt leave that finish!
LXM21: POR15... I remeber reading/hearing about this! I'll search for it and have a read, but was it a rust convertor or a rust preventative??
THanks for the feedback! Any mroe info would be great!!
LXM21: POR15... I remeber reading/hearing about this! I'll search for it and have a read, but was it a rust convertor or a rust preventative??
THanks for the feedback! Any mroe info would be great!!
#5
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 07:09 PM
Tiny, reading there brochure it will stop rust permantley & leave a hard coating which you can paint over so I suppose it is a convertor & sealer. Have a look at www.por15.com.au
#6
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 07:13 PM
Champion! Thank you!
#7
TerrA LX
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:39 PM
the only way to really treat rust is to remove it. for the trailer yeah treat it and sheet it, but if you doing a torana, remove as much rust (inc panels if need be) as possible.
rust converters work, some better than others, but preperation plays a part here too.
again try to remove as much as possible first. try industry suppliers for products.
my opinion is that if the treament you are using is leving a film it must be sealing rust in aswell. i think the products that react with the substrate and require removal must be truly converting and not just conditioning ready for paint.
rust converters work, some better than others, but preperation plays a part here too.
again try to remove as much as possible first. try industry suppliers for products.
my opinion is that if the treament you are using is leving a film it must be sealing rust in aswell. i think the products that react with the substrate and require removal must be truly converting and not just conditioning ready for paint.
#8
FastEHHolden
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:54 PM
by depriving the rust of water and oxygen its not going to get any worse...I would use it in a car but only as a stop gap between getting it fixed (one day)
#9
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:17 PM
Tiny,
I will stand by the POR15 testemonials... I used it on my LJ floor, and I used it on my old man's E-Type when we were restoring that.
I used 1/3rd of the 1liter tin on the entire floor (4 door LJ) and a bout the same again on the boot floor and the petrol tank.
The floor wasnt rusty, but the POR15 is a preventative, as well as a convertor.
On the E-Type, There was a small amount of rust, painted one coat on, let it dry, painted another coat, let it dry, belted it with a hammer, not so much as a scratch, let alone chipping or cracking.
The picture below is after I coated the floor of the torry (Bit messy coz i walked on it with my work boots).
The excellent thing about the POR15 is that it finds its own level, so you dont have thicker bits and thinner bits across the surface.
FANTASTIC stuff, and would recomend it to anyone!! Very much worth the money!
I will stand by the POR15 testemonials... I used it on my LJ floor, and I used it on my old man's E-Type when we were restoring that.
I used 1/3rd of the 1liter tin on the entire floor (4 door LJ) and a bout the same again on the boot floor and the petrol tank.
The floor wasnt rusty, but the POR15 is a preventative, as well as a convertor.
On the E-Type, There was a small amount of rust, painted one coat on, let it dry, painted another coat, let it dry, belted it with a hammer, not so much as a scratch, let alone chipping or cracking.
The picture below is after I coated the floor of the torry (Bit messy coz i walked on it with my work boots).
The excellent thing about the POR15 is that it finds its own level, so you dont have thicker bits and thinner bits across the surface.
FANTASTIC stuff, and would recomend it to anyone!! Very much worth the money!
#10
_munro_
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:47 PM
i've always found it's better to get rid of as much rust scale as possible then use a rust disolver rather than a converter
kmart sell one called rustbuster
when you get it ignore the instructions this is how i use it
it's like water in property but if you soak whatever your trying to clean up ova night you can go out in the morning and wire buff most of the rust away
repeat this till you've got clean metal
once clean and cleaned(residue washed away) etch prime then prime
even better is to sand blast but it's alot of cleaning up.
i've also been told that a rust removal gel has come on the market.
i havn't used it but if it's half as good as i've been told it should work well.
cheers tom
kmart sell one called rustbuster
when you get it ignore the instructions this is how i use it
it's like water in property but if you soak whatever your trying to clean up ova night you can go out in the morning and wire buff most of the rust away
repeat this till you've got clean metal
once clean and cleaned(residue washed away) etch prime then prime
even better is to sand blast but it's alot of cleaning up.
i've also been told that a rust removal gel has come on the market.
i havn't used it but if it's half as good as i've been told it should work well.
cheers tom
Edited by munro, 05 July 2006 - 11:47 PM.
#11
Tiny
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Posted 07 July 2006 - 05:13 PM
Thanks guys!
The trailer is something that doesnt really matter... We shouldnt be hanging on to it for a longperiod of time. But I'd like to get the torana right!
As FastEH said I'd like to use the rust convertor as a stopgap cause the whole idea of the torana was to teach myself to pannel beat a bit! Thing is.. its turning out to be SUCH a long term project that there wont be anything left to beat! Only to sweep away! LOL!
Anyhow, Thanks for the tips, I'm going to have a good look into the POR15 as ive heard really good stuff about it, but i'll keep asking around for the other stuff too!
Cheers!
The trailer is something that doesnt really matter... We shouldnt be hanging on to it for a longperiod of time. But I'd like to get the torana right!
As FastEH said I'd like to use the rust convertor as a stopgap cause the whole idea of the torana was to teach myself to pannel beat a bit! Thing is.. its turning out to be SUCH a long term project that there wont be anything left to beat! Only to sweep away! LOL!
Anyhow, Thanks for the tips, I'm going to have a good look into the POR15 as ive heard really good stuff about it, but i'll keep asking around for the other stuff too!
Cheers!
#12
Tiny
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Posted 07 July 2006 - 05:32 PM
Just found THIS:
http://www.ppc.au.com/corroison.htm
Made by the people who make ( or import) POR15... Sounds pretty trick to me!!
http://www.ppc.au.com/corroison.htm
Made by the people who make ( or import) POR15... Sounds pretty trick to me!!
#13
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Posted 07 July 2006 - 06:00 PM
Deox Gel sounds pretty good to me! What is it worth though? I stand by Por-15 for the moment, but if someone uses the Deox Gel, let us know how it goes. Might be worth a try.
#14
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Posted 07 July 2006 - 06:15 PM
i think the deox gel is used BEFOR you put the POR15 on..
The way i read it the POR15 is a rust preventative... its wont neutralise rust thats already there ( but it will stop further moisture.air getting to it!)
I think you use the Deox, and then paint with POR for best results!
The way i read it the POR15 is a rust preventative... its wont neutralise rust thats already there ( but it will stop further moisture.air getting to it!)
I think you use the Deox, and then paint with POR for best results!
#15
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Posted 08 July 2006 - 01:29 AM
Aaahhh ok... just makes it a tad more expensive if you've gotta buy BOTH products i guess... but then again, i'd rather spend $200 to save the metal in my Torana and have it last 10 years longer than without.
#16
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Posted 08 July 2006 - 01:23 PM
I found this stuff pretty good. You can get it at Supercheap.
(Bottle on the Left if you hadn't guessed)
Steve
(Bottle on the Left if you hadn't guessed)
Steve
#17
_munro_
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Posted 08 July 2006 - 04:03 PM
yep thats the stuff kmart sells
Tiny if you coat all afected parts in this it will stop rust spreading
if you continually work it the rust will compleatly disolve away
this stuffs cheap and efective
tom
Tiny if you coat all afected parts in this it will stop rust spreading
if you continually work it the rust will compleatly disolve away
this stuffs cheap and efective
tom
#18
Tiny
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Posted 08 July 2006 - 07:18 PM
Ahhh excellent! I'll have a good look at that! It might be what i'm after as a temporary rust stopper!
Thanks guys great work!!
Thanks guys great work!!
#19
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 03:26 PM
Was flicking through a magazine the other day and came across these guys Electronic Rust Prevention Systems
No idea how it works (Read; didnt really read or go into it at all) but just thought it might be worth checking out if someone was into it enough.
No idea how it works (Read; didnt really read or go into it at all) but just thought it might be worth checking out if someone was into it enough.
#20
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 09:36 PM
I have the DVD on the electronics but my TV is on the blink so can't watch it
Sounds good in the brouchure though
I sell POR15 and I think its the stuff I will be using on the hatch
$220 for 4 litres I think is a fair price
And more than enough to do my projects....... well some of them anyway
Sounds good in the brouchure though
I sell POR15 and I think its the stuff I will be using on the hatch
$220 for 4 litres I think is a fair price
And more than enough to do my projects....... well some of them anyway
#21
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 01:40 PM
I agree 100% ... Por15 is fantastic$220 for 4 litres I think is a fair price
And more than enough to do my projects....... well some of them anyway
#22
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Posted 01 November 2006 - 11:01 PM
I used some of there deox gel on my x-member peices last week as it was a sample pot that we had at work (knew product for us to sell) and was very happy with the end result, simple to use and a great result but it can get messy cause your supposed to wrap it in plastic for 12 hrs and it gets a little sloppy from all the rusty crap that comes off. I then gave the bits a quick scuff and put some POR15 black over them and they look great.
just thought i'd add my 2cents worth
Jugs
just thought i'd add my 2cents worth
Jugs
#23
Peterpilot
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 03:35 PM
Rust Bullet Claims to be superior to POR 15... Anyone had experience with it?
#24
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Posted 22 May 2007 - 11:39 PM
Gday
Is the trailer still working well.being smashed and bashed.
cheers
Is the trailer still working well.being smashed and bashed.
cheers
#25
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Posted 21 October 2007 - 10:59 PM
As far as I�m led to believe, you shouldn't remove the surface rust completely, only the larger flaking stuff.
The rust converters have a chemical reaction with the rust itself and is an important/critical part of the process.
The stuff I have used is a commercial product, and it states to do it this way.
The bottle is at work; I�ll check the name and post later.
I lightly dry scrubbed where I could reach then vacuumed to remove the loose stuff, then plastered this stuff into every reachable cavity in the hatch, so far so good.
Paul
The rust converters have a chemical reaction with the rust itself and is an important/critical part of the process.
The stuff I have used is a commercial product, and it states to do it this way.
The bottle is at work; I�ll check the name and post later.
I lightly dry scrubbed where I could reach then vacuumed to remove the loose stuff, then plastered this stuff into every reachable cavity in the hatch, so far so good.
Paul
Edited by LX2DR, 21 October 2007 - 11:01 PM.
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