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Posted 05 February 2014 - 06:50 PM
Edited by sibhs, 05 February 2014 - 06:52 PM.
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:05 PM
Soak it in some WD40 overnight. That m/cyl has been stainless sleeved. Inside the front reservoir there is a hex head piston stop screw that needs to be removed.
To convert to disc you need to remove the brass flare seat from the front port and discard the black check valve and spring.
The m/cyl rebuild kit should come with two new brass flare seats. Just screw a self tapper into the hole in the seat and pull it out with your pliers.
Pull the rear one out also and replace the check valve.
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:35 PM
Just looking again at your pics and noticed you've already removed the piston stop screw.
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:36 PM
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:40 PM
The brass flare seats are in the front and rear brake line ports on the passenger side of the m/cyl.
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:51 PM
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 08:08 PM
Aaaaah, these bits. Hopefully no chance of me stuffing something up by putting in a self tapper? Eg screw to big, going in to far?
So how do I get the other bits out? Compressed air, needle nose pliers to pull out shaft thingy?
Appreciate your time Dave.
Cheers
Marty
No mate nothing to stuff up except the brass seats and the check valves which the rebuild kit should supply new ones.
32mm x 8g self tapper I think and screw it in about 5mm if you can. If my memory serves me correctly I ended up using a claw hammer under the head of the screw to pull them out.
Secure your m/cyl in a suitable vise with some timber packings so as not to mark the casting and tap the pistons out from rear to front with a brass drift and hammer.
Edited by S pack, 05 February 2014 - 08:09 PM.
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
Posted 05 February 2014 - 08:09 PM
Who's going to rebuild it ?
If a shop is going to do it leave that to them to remove them and tel lthem to set it up for disc front
Also have them (or get someone to ) face the big nut so its all nice and flush with no numbers left
Then you can restamp it DISC and a date code if you care
Pistons come out from the back... not thru the threaded end unless a last resort... cause your pushing against the seal lip
And don't soak it in WD40 ... soak it in metho... anything petroleum based will swell the seals and make it harder to get the pistons out !!
If a shop is doing a hone and kit on the cyl let them get the things out
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 08:17 PM
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Posted 05 February 2014 - 08:25 PM
Not hard to rebuild it yourself if it already has a stainless sleeve and the sleeve is in good condition.
Cheers
Dave.
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
Posted 05 February 2014 - 09:47 PM
Agreed
Just a polish with a decent stone and some seals
If you want to do it yourself I can show you how
Pipe and fittings I can do for you
Dave
Posted 05 February 2014 - 10:55 PM
Drop it off to Perth Brake parts, Bellows St Welshpool. They do a fantastic job. They will also be able to skim discs, drums etc and supply linings to suit your drums.
Edited by 71xu1, 05 February 2014 - 10:57 PM.
Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?
Posted 05 February 2014 - 11:28 PM
Yes the muppets at PBP can do it
But be very specific about paint , stamps etc
Probably best get them to hone and kit it and supply the lid seal. Set it up for disc front but leave it unpainted so you can put the correct black paint on it.
Get Anthony next door at Aeroplate to plate the nut , cap and wire the correct colour
Tell him Neil sent you
_rich243_
Posted 31 March 2017 - 05:30 PM
Anyone know what approximate date code a 11/72 LJ should have on the nut?
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Posted 31 March 2017 - 09:37 PM
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