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Pictures of fitted lc or lj chassis kit
#1
Posted 25 March 2014 - 08:46 PM
I've found someone that is willing to fabricate one for me but wanted to see photos of it on the car so he knows exactly what he is making and can then measure it up on my car.
Thanks!
#2
_LJdave_
Posted 27 March 2014 - 05:13 PM
I could take a few with my phone and send too you if that helps?
contact me on 0418354373, Dave
#3
_judgelj_
Posted 28 March 2014 - 07:50 PM
If daves sending you the pics and he doesnt mind, maybe post them up here for all to see?
IT would be nice to know how they actually work and what they support. Like do they brace rail to rail or rail to body? If you know that much you wouldnt really need pictures.
#4
_ljshawn_
Posted 28 March 2014 - 08:03 PM
#5
Posted 28 March 2014 - 10:49 PM
I have seen the cracks in the LC/J window pillars from 350 Chev powered ones - so strength would help
#6
_Tubo308_
Posted 28 March 2014 - 11:45 PM
The last pic is what I'm making. It's much cheaper to make your own and it will fit better
Cheers tubo
Attached Files
#7
_judgelj_
Posted 29 March 2014 - 08:52 PM
They run next to the factory rails with 1 brace between the 2 rails under the rear foot well.
Oh i see how that would stop twisting, so long as the two are braced together.
#8
Posted 30 March 2014 - 01:21 AM
They are braced together with the gearbox / front & a rear crossmember joining each side piece together as single unit, also bolted through rear floor, And obviously those crappy guard pieces that leave the odd 30+ bolts protruding through to engine bay where very noticeable, I'm yet to be convinced the kit actually benefits from said pieces, welded on the front of those arms......
Edited by WhaleOilBeefHooked, 30 March 2014 - 01:22 AM.
#9
Posted 30 March 2014 - 01:30 AM
I will also say, bolts don't do much in a way of fastening, unless they can Torque up
#10
_luv the uc_
Posted 30 March 2014 - 12:14 PM
#11
Posted 30 March 2014 - 12:47 PM
That's the Deed Steve,
has to have something hey, a piece of pipe *which is a bit thick in wall thickness ) or better a tube like Steve said, so the bolt can tighten right up. Dave I
I was told the bolts are useless without crush tubes inserted in the chassis rails.
p.s. M10 Bolt would fit into a 12mm S/S Tube which is 10mm I.D., so I would drill a 10mm through the strengthener when on the chassis, then remove the chassis strengthener, and drill a 12mm hole in the chassis's 10mm hole to open them up so the S/S tube cut to the chassis thickness can be inserted in there, then a few tacks of weld and grind flush to make the tube ridgit.
Repeat for all holes.Dave I
http://www.ebay.com....8dad9a7a&_uhb=1
#12
Posted 30 March 2014 - 11:00 PM
![348881A4-8657-4E2D-8EDA-FB8ABA67D27F_zps](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/348881A4-8657-4E2D-8EDA-FB8ABA67D27F_zpsot0pqoub.jpg)
![034ABA40-8640-4203-8741-9DEB1705AC11_zps](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/034ABA40-8640-4203-8741-9DEB1705AC11_zps1q0cwq4q.jpg)
![CC19553B-1F04-44FF-B350-6D35BA083E5C_zps](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/CC19553B-1F04-44FF-B350-6D35BA083E5C_zpsyyrojmwm.jpg)
![616C1645-71C1-490D-AA91-9E37D2E74D3D_zps](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/616C1645-71C1-490D-AA91-9E37D2E74D3D_zpsc1ojlbcr.jpg)
![862A1031-EF6A-46BF-8EA5-936FE527E5B9_zps](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/862A1031-EF6A-46BF-8EA5-936FE527E5B9_zpsev58rbmp.jpg)
![076FF331-6B6A-4690-B1EB-F605096E13A6_zps](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/076FF331-6B6A-4690-B1EB-F605096E13A6_zps09xif4id.jpg)
#13
Posted 30 March 2014 - 11:09 PM
Wow, thank-you Jason
#14
Posted 01 April 2014 - 12:37 PM
anyone seen an lj with the left front wheel off the ground through twisting.
#15
_Tubo308_
Posted 01 April 2014 - 03:50 PM
anyone seen an lj with the left front wheel off the ground through twisting.
When you say off the ground do you mean when parked so the thing is rocking on the front end and the rear wheels are on the ground.
I've never seen that be4 at all
#16
Posted 01 April 2014 - 04:45 PM
yep thats my hypertheticly speaking.if its going to twist thats the side once power goes through drive train it would want to lift (spin)i think it would have to have an incredible amount of hp to do this.ive never seen it done either tony.but i suppose it only has to do it minimal for it to be out of wack.anyone else got there views on this.
Maz
#17
Posted 01 April 2014 - 08:29 PM
Thanks Jason for the pictures.
In the first picture,is that plate cut around the bush or is it just a shadow?
cheers
#18
Posted 01 April 2014 - 10:35 PM
I found some more pictures to on an old build thread so I'll post them up to.
#19
_Tubo308_
Posted 02 April 2014 - 11:11 AM
#20
Posted 02 April 2014 - 05:45 PM
That bolt is not cut for that rubber. It goes behind that's how you support the chassie when you do the front end up. The picture is just a shadow.
cheers
#21
Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:26 PM
On the subject of front right side wheel lifting off ground = Brocky had that problem and rectified with a strengthening plate to stop ball joints falling out, Mainly whilst going over top of mountain & down through the dipper, But yes I have also seen many an LJ pick drivers side wheel off ground on a flat surface when launching (any drag lj worth it's time-slip should be able to achieve that small task & even more so when fitted with powerhouse 6 cylinder), Hence the need for such a sub frame strengthening kit as above, or sooner rather than later your doors will open by themselves... Can and will get that bad, so best to avoid if your powerplant requires such beefing up of everything else....
Edited by WhaleOilBeefHooked, 02 April 2014 - 07:28 PM.
#22
Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:34 PM
![77f6d5adb2e0813a4eabf4729c365a71_zpsbf03](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/77f6d5adb2e0813a4eabf4729c365a71_zpsbf03d58c.jpg)
![f1550c57eda703d36130429a283d896a_zps8337](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/f1550c57eda703d36130429a283d896a_zps8337446b.jpg)
![3901f7e77d8c0939db958a48e7a1a090_zps1a73](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/3901f7e77d8c0939db958a48e7a1a090_zps1a73a9f0.jpg)
![89502d11c71762b87cd609ed94cd6894_zps87b5](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/89502d11c71762b87cd609ed94cd6894_zps87b5b7b9.jpg)
![12a27cc1913b02f649d967ceb630612a_zpsc401](https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i57.photobucket.com/albums/g221/eljay72/12a27cc1913b02f649d967ceb630612a_zpsc40141b5.jpg)
Hopefully these can help others out. I know I've found them useful
#23
Posted 02 April 2014 - 09:24 PM
I personally think both the lower front cross member / k-frame plate & the steering column "strengthening" plates aren't thick enough, So decided to make my own out of 4mm mild steel... Here's the lower k-frame......
Attached Files
Edited by WhaleOilBeefHooked, 02 April 2014 - 09:25 PM.
#24
Posted 03 April 2014 - 09:24 AM
anyone seen an lj with the left front wheel off the ground through twisting.
SD20120211_T&T_SuperStreet_0774 (600 x 401).jpg 57.25K
11 downloads
The left is a little higher than the right.
#25
Posted 03 April 2014 - 11:51 AM
nice warrenm..i cant see a cage.... .has your beast got the strengthening kit under it.....ive seen a few that dont run the kit but with just the 6pt cage and going into the single digits, most are not regoed though,.makes me think the cage is stronger as it serves two purposes.i know stuff all what is better for strength cage or kit.but im leaning towards cage,but i guess they would compliment each other if used in combination.
what do reckon bomber
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 03 April 2014 - 12:02 PM.
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