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LH Steering column chop, Ing Barrel issues


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#1 Oversteer

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 01:46 PM

Hello

 

 I`m in the process of rebuilding my LH Steering column...

 

First issue is the ignition barrel sits too far out / has lots of slop ;

 

Rny8HBl.jpg

 

Am i missing something or is the alloy housing worn down where the clip bit is ?

 

url=http://imgur.com/HMj3fIb]HMj3fIb.jpg[/URL]

 

A spacer on this bit missing maybe ?

 

xrzokSZ.jpg

 

It all seems to work when i assemble it but just doesn't seem right to be able to move the barrel in and out ~10mm...

 

 

OK next issue or bit of advice i need is with shortening the column, i have a sealed bering to replace the bottom plastic thing, it fits perfect on the shaft and in the column and i want to shorten the whole lot back to ~40mm off the firewall.

 

I have knocked the roll pin out and it i'm hoping in can get the little shaft end piece out, cut back the tube/shaft and then put the end piece back in.... is this how it works, should i be able to get this end piece out after removing roll pin.... its in there very tight and i don't want to mash it up getting it out if its not going to work how i think it might ?

sUUZwvI.jpg

ML87tAC.jpg

 

Cheers

 



#2 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:04 PM

When you put the barrel in, does it become locked into place? As in, do you need to push on the release tab to get it back out? It sounds like your not putting the barrel in the right way for it to seat properly. That gap is not correct, there is no spacer. With the sector in place (gear that goes on the bottom, its in the photo with the bearings) there should be no play. It takes a bit of a shuffle/jiggle to get it in place properly. By memory I used a very small screw driver to push the tab in to slide it home. ( the 2mm by 10mm tab on the side of the barrel, 5mm from the end opposite to the key) I had the same issue when doing mine. Once you get it in once the next time gets easier.

The column should be in two sections. A sleeve or outer, and the rod or inner. Spray some WD40 in the join and let it penetrate. It should slide easily. Once freed up, should be no need to cut. I sanded mine once freed to clean up the surface rust.
I found this out when I rebuilt mine. I hade to tap the column to get it out, then found it was short when I was trying to put it back together. That's when I realized it floated/adjustable. ( either that or I am missing the roll pin )

Hope this all made sence! Not easy to explain

#3 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:15 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...ff/#entry356970

Read through this thread, just before the end of it there are pictures of what I'm trying to say. These pictures along with my attempt at an explanation might help.
Good luck

#4 Oversteer

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:19 PM

Yeah the barrel clips in and you have to use a screwdriver and push the tab to get it out.... in the first photo its clipped in !

 

With the column shaft i can see the top section that collapses ...it has a very little pin in it on the top section so you can see if it was pushed hard enough it would slide ... the bottom section i want to know about, is that bit with the flat that goes in the uni joint/rag joint removable from the tube ? I think it would be best to mod/cut/shorten that bit so the top bit still remains as the full length collapsible safety feature. I'm thinking since it had a roll pin down there it must be an inserted bit...



#5 Oversteer

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:22 PM

yeah read that thread...and the 3 other on the subject, still can;t figure out why my barrel float in and out so much ! It appears to be a newish barrel installed when i bought the car....maybe the wrong/bad china item !



#6 _ausdev_

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:31 PM

A new barrell is cheap......I would grab one anyway....



#7 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 09:41 PM

Sorry, I can't be of anymore help than what I have said. That is the extent of my knowledge (and it ain't that much).
Hopefully others can help

Good luck once again

#8 UCSLE

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 10:46 PM

I have a new barrel and it also has the same problem , i think it is just a poor quality barrel . I did notice that your barrel is also missing the plastic tab on the bottom of it , i don't think it does ,but it may have something to do with it coming out too far ?.



#9 S pack

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Posted 04 May 2014 - 10:58 PM

I think you'll find the outer casing of the ignition barrel is locking into the coffee pot fine, it's the inner cylinder that is moving in the outer casing.



#10 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 02:26 AM

HOK next issue or bit of advice i need is with shortening the column, i have a sealed bering to replace the bottom plastic thing, it fits perfect on the shaft and in the column and i want to shorten the whole lot back to ~40mm off the firewall.

 

What you propose to do will work however usually people shorten the column back to the firewall but leave the shaft at the standard length. Moving the uni back to the firewall will change the angle of the steering shaft and may cause header clearance problems with either the shaft or the relocated uni.

 

Rather than cutting the shaft you could just collapse the steering shaft to the length you need. The only downside is that it will reduce the amount the steering column can collapse. 

 

There are two small holes in the outer steering shaft where plastic is injected into a recess on the inner shaft to take up any movement and stop the shafts vibrating. The injected plastic forms two small pins which will shear if the shaft receives the slightest knock. Once the pins have sheared you can collapse the column to the required length. Once the column is assembled the pins serve no purpose.


Edited by ls2lxhatch, 05 May 2014 - 02:41 AM.


#11 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 02:42 AM

steering_column.jpg

 

exhaust02.jpg

 

 

steering_joints01.jpg


Edited by ls2lxhatch, 05 May 2014 - 02:45 AM.


#12 Oversteer

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 03:12 AM

Ok thanks for the pics and advice, i see what you mean ls2lxhatch about the shaft length changing the angle and possibly bringing the shaft/uni closer to the headers, good point so i think i will just shorten the case and leave the shaft length the same.

 

I'll have to look into the ing barrel a bit more to see whats wrong....  its a pity that the ing barrel even when right is very easy to break/bypass and the steering lock is poor.. will have to use other(several) methods of stopping the car getting stolen !


Edited by Oversteer, 05 May 2014 - 03:20 AM.


#13 sl308

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Posted 16 May 2014 - 01:55 AM

Dont know about the shaft, but had the same problem with the ignition barrel. Take the barrel out and drill a small hole in the barrel column housing. I used 3mm. Put the barrel back in, make sure you can use all the functions,acc, on,start etc then use a grub screw or self Tapper screw to hold it in place. Use loctite on the screw. Has been in mine for 12 months and so far no probs...(2 screws would probably be better, one each end of the barrel)

#14 _hutch_

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Posted 16 May 2014 - 06:42 AM

Might sound silly but are you sure its the right barrel,I have a recollection of this trouble when you try to fit the wrong barrel,ie should have the barrel with the single tab ??

Edited by hutch, 16 May 2014 - 06:43 AM.





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