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New Heater Box setup mods


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#1 sibhs

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 12:13 PM

I bought one of the repro heater box's and thought I'd share my experience. Firstly this is a smooth almost grey finish compared to originals that are rough black finish. I plastic primed it then sprayed it 2k black with a matting agent. It wasn't intended but the matting agent gave it a rough finish. eme8a3y5.jpg The heater core is wrapped in foam to stop loss of air and rattling. y5a3y5e5.jpg Used the glazing putty to seal the two sides together. qadusyby.jpgmujade9y.jpg

#2 sibhs

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 12:21 PM

Using a piece of flat rubber I cut out two holes for the core tubes to hide the core. Then the fun began. Fitted the box but had a problem with one bolt not lining up with hole on shelf. The bolt third from right. Had to drill shelf hole bigger. Then after much swearing the cable was connected but wouldn't push the lever on the top of heater box without bending cable. Cable had already been bent from original box. Decided to remove box and adjust the mechanism that controls heater flap. avumyjup.jpg Using a file I rounded off the edge that outs so much pressure on cable. gu2u3y3u.jpg6uma5e4e.jpg

#3 gad05

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 01:20 PM

Hi Marty,

Great work again.Just a couple of questions.

Where did you buy the heater box from and are you happy with the fit?
Did you make you're mounting gaskets or buy them?

Cheers Graham .

#4 sibhs

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 02:46 PM

Hi Graham, got it from Rare parts in Welshpool but none left as far as I know. Fit is good apart from that one bolt. It comes with fitting gaskets apart from box to plenum. There is also an issue with fan cover bolt holes. Here a bolt with square locking end goes from base to top. Two holes correct size and one too big. e7evazaq.jpge2uje5y5.jpg to fix this I put some steel putty around base then tightened up. vyva8eju.jpg

#5 N/A-PWR

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Posted 26 August 2014 - 03:01 PM

Very Good Work Marty,

 

You shouldn't have to do anything extra,

 

if the Heaterbox is a replacement part hey.



I like your steel putty idea.  :spoton:



#6 _flyingbrick_

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Posted 02 September 2014 - 02:42 PM

Glazing putty is completely the wrong product for that. You probably had lots extrude itself into the inner compartment (the same amount that came out of the outside) and after a few months it will dry out, crack and fall off on the inside.

#7 sibhs

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 09:11 AM

Hi Nathan, you're probably right!

I did this twice so when I pulled it apart I noted how much had squished in and made note and used less and kept it closer to outside edge.

Once this product is in I think it will perform its job without any issue.  Even if the excess did drop off inside I can't see it being an issue.

Cheers

Marty



#8 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON

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Posted 13 June 2022 - 07:20 AM

Hi All , my heater box is out at the moment and having an issue with the short link controlling the fresh air inlet flap door.

 

Looking inside the top cover, when operating the mechanism by hand, it seems like the short link wont push to open the door, like the Tab that is on the fresh air flap, is under-centre of the pivoting shaft, so effectively its jamming, and the link beds under pressure.

By giving the flap a slight push with my finger, overcomes the under-centre pivoting issue.

 

The Operating Cam is all lubed up - which i don't have a concern with - its just the above.

 

From closed, how far should the Fresh air door actually open? 

 

Should its range of motion be from vertical closed - to horizontal at 90 degrees' when fully open , or just partially open/closed? 

 

TIA

Jaso



#9 sibhs

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Posted 13 June 2022 - 05:27 PM

Pretty sure mine had a full range of motion when out of the car. When connected to heater controller I think the range is reduced.

 

Marty



#10 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON

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Posted 13 June 2022 - 07:01 PM

Thanks Marty,
its just doing my head in, to working out a fix to the short link pushing on the flap to overcome the pivoting point.

I will compare some images of the short link that i have seen on the forum/net, to what my link is looking like.

What are these links made of, is it spring steel? They are quite a rigid material.

I have another busted top heater box cover in shed somewhere, but cant remember if any mechanism is on it.

Jaso

#11 S pack

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Posted 13 June 2022 - 07:34 PM

Jaso, this may help.

Attached File  LJ Heater flap rework P1.JPG   148.98K   15 downloads

Attached File  LJ Heater flap rework P2.JPG   134.18K   22 downloads

Attached File  LJ Heater flap rework P3.JPG   114.85K   15 downloads



#12 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON

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Posted 13 June 2022 - 07:52 PM

Thanks Dave,
just back from the shed, looking for those other bits, i found, rusty but there.

I will have a read of the info you shared.

Much appreciated. :)

Attached Files



#13 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON

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Posted 13 June 2022 - 08:14 PM

Ahhhh, Dave, i beleive i may see my issue, from the pages you shared (fig.2 page 447). Thanks again!!

The illustration of the fresh door flap (the Bottom edge), appears on the outer side of the stop, which is moulded into the fibreglass air opening, if you get my meaning.

So the short link when pushing on the flap, pushes at the bottom side of the flap pivot. The short link goes under the flap when opened.

I have my flap on the inside of the stop, thinking that was correct, and thinking the link was to be topside of the flap when opened. Thats why i thought the operation was working under centre.

So the flap door is not absolutley vertical at closed position, pulled up against the stop. The flap felt then completes the seal.

Cheers :)

Jaso

#14 IanC

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Posted 08 September 2022 - 08:26 AM

I bought one of the repro heater box's and thought I'd share my experience. Firstly this is a smooth almost grey finish compared to originals that are rough black finish. I plastic primed it then sprayed it 2k black with a matting agent. It wasn't intended but the matting agent gave it a rough finish. eme8a3y5.jpg The heater core is wrapped in foam to stop loss of air and rattling. y5a3y5e5.jpg Used the glazing putty to seal the two sides together. qadusyby.jpgmujade9y.jpg

In the second photo. The panel that the flap hinges off, has a screw/pin? that goes through from the bottom plate and into the hole provided to secure the flap.  If anyone knows what it is called, or even better, has a photo of the screw/pin?  it would be greatly appreciated.  cheers Ian.



#15 IanC

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Posted 13 September 2022 - 06:57 AM

I have been told there is no pin or screw. That hole in the indented bit is what secures the flap support when the base is bolted on. Just thought I would add this in case anyone else is doing there heater box. Thanks Dave for your help with this.

#16 S pack

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Posted 19 September 2022 - 09:09 AM

I have been told there is no pin or screw. That hole in the indented bit is what secures the flap support when the base is bolted on. Just thought I would add this in case anyone else is doing there heater box. Thanks Dave for your help with this.

You are welcome Ian.
 



#17 S pack

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Posted 22 September 2022 - 08:03 AM

Ian, pic of the direction of rotation of the heater motor for you as promised.

Apologies for the lateness posting this, work has been quite busy.

Attached File  LC Heater motor.jpg   70.66K   8 downloads






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