13 replies to this topic

[SmacT]

G'day,

 

I am fitting flares to my LX four door following the Ruts thread (which works great), but have got to my rear driver's side door which has intrusion bars fitted (the other rear doesn't).

 

The intrusion bar blocks access to fit the nut on the highest door flare bolt. 

 

Has anyone else successfully fitted this bolt without hacking the intrusion bar? A nutsert may work? A new non intrusion door would also work, but I would prefer not to do that at this point. 

 

I am thinking a hole saw straight in from the inner door would work, but not as neat as I'd like. Any ideas? 

Edited by SmacT, 13 January 2015 - 10:25 AM.

[Bigfella237]

All Toranas up to and including chassis numbers "BLX..." did not require side intrusion bars, "CLX..." (1 January 1977) onward had ADR 29 - Side Door Strength added, so I'm guessing you have one door from each?

 

If your LX is C or D revision then legally all four doors should have the intrusion bar?

 

Not that anyone will likely check...

[SmacT]

Yeah, it's a late 77 LX (she was a fire-breathing four-cylinder Sunbird). The two front doors have them, the passenger side rear is the odd one out. The door is in great nick, so I am not too keen to source another, I'd rather find a work around to get the bloody nut done up. I was even thinking of tapping the intrusion bar and bolting the flare to that? Anyway, if no one else has done it, I will think of something. :-)

[Statler]

I welded a small piece of wire onto a nut, then ground down the nut until it fit between the doors skin & intrusion bar. 

 

Make sure the bolt isn't too long or it will push the door skin out when you screw it in.

[SmacT]

Hi Statler, good idea. i have already shortened the bolt, but can do the nut as well. I suppose the door skin will keep the nut in place, rather than the nyloc nut.

 

I am going to stare at it really hard tonight - results here later. :-)

[S pack]

Sounds like the nutsert would be the easiest way to go if you have access to the equipment.

[SmacT]

Yes, thought that too. I think I have someone I can borrow one off. I am not familiar with how they work though - will the intrusion bar impede fitting the nutsert? 

[S pack]

Would depend on the length of the nutsert and the available clearance between the door skin and the intrusion bar.

[LS1LX]

Be careful with a lot of nutserts they tend to come loose "spin" if you tighten and loosen a bolt a few times, there great if you get it first go and never touch the bolt again.

[mick_in_oz]

Triangle file and put a couple of small cuts/nicks in the hole before you dump up the nutsert and it'll expand into the small voids and help to resist turning. 

[SmacT]

Hi guys, here's how I did it in the end. I couldn't get hold of a nutsert gun, so I did it the long way...

 

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I grabbed a gal nut the right size and ground the gal off the top of the nut.

 

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Here's why - there's no easy way to get the nut onto the (shortened) bolt in the top flare hole (Wilsons Flares) when you have intrusion bars in the door. 

 

 photo (11).JPG   103.08K   2 downloads

I fitted the nut to the shortened bolt, and smeared blu-tac over the hole. It's crucial you weld the nut in the right spot, or you won't be able to fit the flare without modifying it and it looking shite. This is the way I mark for that. I also wanted to see the angles of the nut as I will use a file to get it fitting snug.

 

 photo (10).JPG   93.97K   1 downloads

Push bolt into the bolt-sized hole - the nut imprints on the blu-tac and gives you the exact location to allow you to drill the hole the right size to accomodate the nut.

 

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I used a stepped drill for the next section, drilling through the blu-tac to the right size. I got this from Bunnings for $15 ages ago and have used it alot in this build. A larger drill bit would do of course, but I didn't have one.

 

 photo (8).JPG   97.68K   3 downloads

I drilled the right hole - slowly - then used a file to seat the nut in snug. I wanted a small gap for welding, but not to much. Welding a door skin is something you want to do with as little heat as possible (don't ask me how I know), so I took my time to get it snug. The bolt holds it at the right height, which is flush with the door skin. It can't protrude or your flare will fit funny.

 

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I tacked, then welded the nut in VERY SLOWLY to prevent heat build up and warping. I am impatient with this, so I always have another job on the go at the same time - that way I give it time to cool by wandering off and doing something else.

 

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Ground down the weld and test fitted the bolt. Happy days!

 

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A long-winded nutsert... That's weld-thru primer, I ran out of etch in a can.

 

 photo (4).JPG   107.98K   1 downloads

That's that door done and the flare bolted on where it should have. Time to Epotech that door and move on!

 

Anyone have anything to add, feel free. This is just how I did it.

 

[Bigfella237]

The only thing I'd suggest is doing the same for all the bolts in the same door, it'd be very little extra work and you wouldn't have to pull the inner door apart if the flare ever had to be replaced?

[SmacT]

Yes, thinking about it... But then again, if I did that it would be worth buying a nutsert set up, I suppose. :-)

[UCgazman]

Those stepped drill bits are awesome...