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Pinholes Goddammit


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#1 SmacT

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 02:26 PM

Hi all,

 

I skim coated my first two panels this week and then epoxied both. The boot is spot on, but the door - which needed thicker bog in one section - has some pinholes in one spot. Bugger it.

 

Anyway, I have heard of plenty of methods to fix it, but at this point I am thinking of sanding the bastard back and doing it all again. Sigh. Has anyone successfully used a glaze to repair? Or would Re-Face polyester filler fix it? There are only two small spots that have pinholes, the rest of the panel only has very thin filler (Rage Gold) if any.

 

Pics below. Thanks for any ideas! (Please include brands. The panel was taken to bare metal, hit with Epotech 408 epoxy surfacer after preparing the metal, then skim coated with Rage Gold filler).

 

Attached File  Pinhole 2.JPG   77.24K   8 downloads

 

Attached File  Pinhole 1.JPG   65.48K   8 downloads



#2 Bigfella237

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 03:49 PM

Hmm, looks like the filler got aerated when you mixed it?

 

I can't help but think that there'll be air bubbles all through it, not just what you can see on the surface. If that's the case I reckon you'll be chasing your tail forever trying to patch it up?

 

Hopefully someone will have a better solution but I think I'd be starting over.



#3 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 04:54 PM

Its normal. 

Chances are you will get that out with your urethane highfill, or you chould hit them with some Upol Hot Shot. 

 

Cheers. 

 

Cheers. 



#4 slar

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 05:05 PM

This is what I would do Sam,.....get yourself some powdered guide coat and rub it in well all over the panel.......block sand it flat with 120 grit......you should then be able to see all the little pin holes on the panel...they will be little black dots.......make sure you blow the panel down with compressed air thoroughly to remove any dust from the pin holes. Next mix up a small amount of glaze filler and fill the pin holes using a razor blade to force it into the holes then scrap the excess filler off with the razor keeping it as flat as possible. Repeat the first step only this time don't sand to much or you will expose more pin holes.......once your satisfied that there is no more holes that need filling, I would give it a coat of reface ( just my personal preference...others may disagree) reface fills pin holes like nothing else Ive ever used. Give it three good coats with about 5 min flash between coats. This will leave a nice thick film for you to sand flat using 180 grit. then apply hi fill and you should be set. Just remember not to sand back to the bog because you will expose more holes. I reckon what you've done is applied the bog to thick in one go trapping air in the mix.......you have to use a bit of pressure when apply filler to stop this happening thus thin coats and slowly build it up. What Bigfella suggested can also be true not mixing the filler correctly can cause air bubbles to become trapped as well......use your bog bat in a figure 8 motion when mixing and don't chop at the mix or youll be asking for trouble. Also make sure that the filler is no more than about 6mm thick maximum or you may have cracking problems later. Door looks good though ....your doing well Cheers Al


Edited by slar, 15 February 2015 - 05:08 PM.


#5 SmacT

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 05:28 PM

Thanks guys. I did the boot the same way and it's fine, but probably because there's only licks of filler on it after blocking back to the epotech. I'll be more careful next panel. TBH, I had expected to have to do something again, being an utter newbie....

 

I will give your method a go Slar, but if in doubt I can do it right, I'll take that section back and do it again. Any recommendations for the glaze? Local panel suppliers sells Dolphin I think, and definitely sells Reface. And when blocking the reface flat with 180, just use a block? I can only get Speedfile paper up to 120 where I shop. That right?



#6 slar

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 05:44 PM

Yeh...I used dolphin all over my car.....I like the stuff, its good to sand and very fine.

Bomber is also right....its pretty normal to get a few pin holes so don't worry about it too much.

As for sanding.....I use Dura Blocks with psa paper ( stick on paper...comes on rolls) when doing doors and long panels you need to have the longest block you can get your hands on to keep it flat.....Dura Block make a full range of blocks and they are excellent to use. Check ebay mate and have a look.

On my car I skimmed basically the whole car....I bought 4 rolls of psa paper 80, 120 180 320 grit and still have a fair wack left over.

Speed files are good for ripping the filler down but theres nothing like a long block on big panels.

 

Hope this helps Sam

Al



#7 SmacT

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 06:18 PM

Great info Slar. Selling your blocks now your car is nearly painted? Jokes, jokes. Righto, I'll leave the door as is for now and get on with the rest of the hanging panels, then do all the glazing in one go. Feel like I am progressing that way.:-) Heading for eBay now...



#8 slar

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 06:38 PM

Good onya  Sam....keep plugging ahead you'll get there lol



#9 Whittley

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 10:54 PM

Best way to fix it is with reface polyester. It will make it straighter too.
If you have just a few then dolphin glaze with a razor will work fine.
Pinholes are normal when using bog. Just make sure when you apply the initial skim you push it down hard to get rid of any air trapped.
Cheers


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#10 Rockoz

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 10:05 AM

I found that pinholes appear more in stiffer bog mixes than thinner ones.

Only trouble is if they get too thin it makes it harder on non horizontal work.

But leaving the thin one open for a day or so thickens it a little.

Ever thought of making your own bog?

Fibreglass repairers have been doing it for years






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