19 replies to this topic

[arrimar]

Put your nosecone on and set the spoiler height first. Otherwise no matchy-matchy left to right.

[Statler]

You really need to have all the front panels on & aligned to finish spec.

 

If you are running flares then it's safe to assume that you will also be running wide rims/tyres?

The leading edge on the front guard will have to be cut off to allow for tyre clearance. 

 

It's best to have the front assembled. Turn the wheels to 3/4 lock, have someone sit on the front bumper & then align the flare.

[Bigfella237]

Another thing I'd suggest is to tape the front and rear flares on, then stand well back and look at how they line up with the style-lines of the body and with each other.

 

You see so many flares fitted cock-eyed (too high at the front or rear) because people are too focused on where the flare wants to sit, not where it should sit.

 

Even the best moldings often require a little 'adjustment'...

[mick_in_oz]

Everything said above is spot on! Listen to Andrew about where they need to be rather than where you feel they fit best.

 

As above, align to finish fit all of the front panels, tape on both front flares and spoiler, and stand back and check the bottom side edge of the spoiler sits level with the ground/sill and that the wheel arch of the front flare looks right rather than pointed up towards the front somewhat, like plenty do. You will probably end up with the spoiler low enough to almost or actually be able to see the ground between the indicator cutout and the nose panel, there really will be a gap if the spoiler is sitting about right. Cut the front lower corner off the guard, cut the wheel arch off the guard AS CLOSE AS YOU DARE to the bolt holes, cut off and weld up the Firewall/A Pillar seam, if you have deep dish wheels or a taller tyre combo then maybe take come out of the firewall/pillar area (another 2"), if you get this keen you will have to also cut the lower back corner of the wheel arch off the guard along with more of the flare.

[Statler]

 You will probably end up with the spoiler low enough to almost or actually be able to see the ground between the indicator cutout and the nose panel, there really will be a gap if the spoiler is sitting about right.

Huh? 

 

[76lxhatch]

... cut the wheel arch off the guard AS CLOSE AS YOU DARE to the bolt holes, cut off and weld up the Firewall/A Pillar seam ...

I prefer to leave a little below the bolt holes and hammer it out to form a new lip. This puts some strength back into the guard so it will keep its shape without relying on the flare, and provides a rounded edge should the tyre ever find its way up there.

Definitely a lot more cutting to do yet if you're putting decent sized wheels and tyres on.

[mick_in_oz]

Col, different spoilers will sit differently, but i bet if we got up close to that car we would go close to seeing the gap I'm referring to. That pic is a good guide as to where the spoiler is likely to sit, with a decent gap between the indicator lens and the top of the spoiler cut out, you see way too many where the spoiler is too high and the result is the flare is pointed up at the front and it looks awful from the side with the wheel arch of the flare wrong.

 

The originals were cut with oxy as far as i know and left with the dags and all the mess.

[tsn007]

sorry to change the subject

 

any chance of more front and rear pictures showing how the rotisserie has been mounted to the bumper holes

 

thanks 

[Statler]

Col, different spoilers will sit differently, but i bet if we got up close to that car we would go close to seeing the gap I'm referring to. That pic is a good guide as to where the spoiler is likely to sit, with a decent gap between the indicator lens and the top of the spoiler cut out, you see way too many where the spoiler is too high and the result is the flare is pointed up at the front and it looks awful from the side with the wheel arch of the flare wrong.

 

The originals were cut with oxy as far as i know and left with the dags and all the mess.

Just need to leave enough room between the top of the spoiler & the grill opening for the 'smile' to fit.

Even if the car doesn't have the 'smile' trim the gap still needs to be there. It's a good reference point.

[Bigfella237]

any chance of more front and rear pictures showing how the rotisserie has been mounted to the bumper holes

 

There's heaps of threads on this forum about rotisseries Tony, most just use an old set of original bumper brackets (or a facsimile thereof).

 

I prefer to leave a little below the bolt holes and hammer it out to form a new lip. This puts some strength back into the guard so it will keep its shape without relying on the flare, and provides a rounded edge should the tyre ever find its way up there.

 

I saw on one of those US car resto TV shows where they TIG'd lengths of welding rod around the wheel arch after they cut it, to add strength back in and save cutting the tyre instead of folding it as you say, probably a bit more work but it looked pretty good once it was done.

Edited by Bigfella237, 22 April 2017 - 09:54 AM.

[Rockoz]

Most of the flares available these days have too much curve in them.

As each mould has been taken off a flare that has been made from a mould of another flare the shape tends to contract.

The distance across the wheel arch decreases.

It depends on what generation mould was used as to how bad it will be.

If you approach the fitment with that in mind then you will see where they need to be modified to get a better fit.

It is likely you will need to modify the flare front and rear to get a good fit

[grumpy xu1]

I'd suggest looking at some original photos, or photos of original a9x's with a magnifying glass ect, fit the indicators & you should have a much better idea of where & how much to cut. & your obviously going to have to get some fibre glass and resin ect. You will probably have to do the front bottom corners of the flares & the bottom back corners with it, quite often they need grinding out for clearance depending on tyre size ect, but I'll be surprised as other's have stated if you don't have too. If you don't plan on trial fitting the front end & tyres to check, then I'd do that. Theoretically all the components should be trial fitted & gaps checked, don't be afraid to sand the fibre glass a little & add a little to get a nice fit. Gary.