13 replies to this topic

[Cook]

Hi all.  I intend on running a heater tap in a 308.  Have actually seen an electric one from Old Air Products.  I would be keen to see pics of where people have mounted theirs.  I'm thinking at the back passenger side of the manifold on some form of bracket.  I intend running the hoses to the back then right and through the firewall to accommodate aircon fittings. Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 07 November 2019 - 10:23 AM.

[Cook]

Sorry should be to the back and left (passenger side) not right.  Cheers Ron 

[76lxhatch]

I put a basic on/off one inline with the heater hoses that run on the inside of the passenger rocker cover

 

Which allows a reasonably straight shot for the cable to run through the firewall under the blower box and piggy-back onto the standard hot/cold air flap cable (so no extra controls)

[Cook]

Thanks for that.  I did read an earlier thread with your set-up but the pics had gone.  I'm steering toward the electric one to reduce cables etc.  Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 07 November 2019 - 01:41 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Depends how big it is I guess, that one just sits there without needing a bracket to mount it which is nice, and if you used appropriate black sleeving you could just run the wiring along the heater hose. I have a bad habit of trying to tuck things away though which comes back to bite me when its time for maintenance.

 

Either way its well worth doing, gets rid of the heat soak when closed which is great in summer (especially without A/C).

[Cook]

Yeah I like yours in terms of neatness etc but all my heater and A/C controls are electric, which are simpler for me, and avoids having to introduce cables, but the trade-off will be a larger tap. Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 07 November 2019 - 02:48 PM.

[Ando]

This is the 3rd one where I've put in a stop valve in the "in flow" heater hose as I don't want heated coolant circulating anytime in the cabin. Especially when the AC is turned on;

  

I make the bracket using a 20 x 3 flat bar. Then bolt it to the throttle return bracket hole behind the carby.

 

I use a straight hose valve mounted on a bracket.

 

I recycle a Torana choke pull cable & install it in the dash & through the firewall where the choke hole is dedicated.

 

I route the cable along the heater hose. (The photo doesn't show this as I haven't installed the cable yet).

 

When the choke is pushed in, the valve is closed. Pull the choke, now "heater knob" & you have heating.

 

Pretty simple solution & no need to drill new holes in the firewall.

 

Cheers

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[Cook]

Thanks Ando. That's quite neat and tidy and roughly where I was thinking.  The difference is I am committed to going left so was thinking a bracket at 90o to yours and a bit further forward, then, using those hoses, cut and reverse the end so that the formed angle exits the tap and they run along the firewall to the fittings.  I'm having trouble posting pics at present but will put one up when I can so you can get an idea of what I'm talking about.  Cheers Ron

[Cook]

Here's the pic.  Wouldn't work before because I forgot to resize it.  Cheers Ron

Attached Files

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[Cook]

Hi all.  Next question.  Does the orientation of the tap matter.  Obviously with a cable one it needs to "worK" but with a vacuum or electric is there any issues in the way it's mounted.  Thanks in advance. Cheers Ron 

[Heath]

The universal heater taps (Gates style; the same as 76lxhatch) that I have used have a different seal at one end, and have an arrow indicating a designed direction of flow.
 
Is it important? I don't know. I've always followed their direction though.

What is super annoying in my opinion is that you can't change the polarity of the tap without frOcking with it considerably. Like... you need to pull the lever off, weld the hole up, and file it out in a different direction (left-to-right) if your "hot-cold" slider is a "cold-hot" slider in your O.E.M. dash, etc.

Edited by Heath, 11 December 2019 - 11:04 AM.

[Cook]

Thanks Heath.  I'm still looking at flowing it as per the instructions but mounting it upside down from all the pics I've seem, just so the hoses sit better down the valley.  I can't imagine this will cause an issue but knowing my luck lol.  I guess only one way to find out.  You can imagine I can't help you with polarity issues given I don't even know if it will work upside down lol. leave that to the electricians. Cheers Ron

 

PS love your build.  Don't know why you needed a shell to start with though.  I reckon you could have just made that too. 

Edited by Cook, 11 December 2019 - 11:13 AM.

[ls2lxhatch]

The heater is also part of the thermostat bypass circuit which allows coolant to circulate around the engine when the thermostat is closed.
 
If you fit a heater tap and have a single outlet thermostat housing then you need to setup an alternative thermostat bypass circuit or fit a thermostat that allows some coolant the bypass through the thermostat when it is closed.
 
The dual outlet thermostat housing with one outlet connected to the water pump should do the job.

Picture from this thread.

[grumpy xu1]

This is the 3rd one where I've put in a stop valve in the "in flow" heater hose as I don't want heated coolant circulating anytime in the cabin. Especially when the AC is turned on;
  
I make the bracket using a 20 x 3 flat bar. Then bolt it to the throttle return bracket hole behind the carby.
 
I use a straight hose valve mounted on a bracket.
 
I recycle a Torana choke pull cable & install it in the dash & through the firewall where the choke hole is dedicated.
 
I route the cable along the heater hose. (The photo doesn't show this as I haven't installed the cable yet).
 
When the choke is pushed in, the valve is closed. Pull the choke, now "heater knob" & you have heating.
 
Pretty simple solution & no need to drill new holes in the firewall.
 
Cheers

If you put some slotted screws in those hose clamps Ando, that would look like a factory done job, the gold zinc, just gives the gmh look, well done, from what i can see, that engine bay looks very nice. Gary.