Jump to content


grinding metal from brake calipers ( a9x style )


  • Please log in to reply
66 replies to this topic

#26 Toranamat69

Toranamat69

    Forum R&D Officer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,117 posts
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 14 February 2007 - 07:16 PM

you just use torana ones,the hq-z are two inches(exageration) too long


so you lose half your turning circle

And they are also too high where the tie rod end is positioned so you get terrible bumpsteer if you use any of the HQ to HZ series steering arms on a Torana.

#27 fuzzypumper

fuzzypumper

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 929 posts
  • Name:Archie
  • Location:Melbourne Eastern
  • Joined: 30-December 06

Posted 15 February 2007 - 01:22 AM

Toranamatt69, your basically saying I have to spend $300 on A9X steering arms from HArrop to stop the caliper from fouling and correct the turning circle and bump stop issue ?

If so were do I get them from?

#28 dattoman

dattoman

    Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

  • Administrators
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 16,485 posts
  • Name:Neil
  • Location:Perth Western Australia
  • Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
  • Joined: 04-February 07

Posted 15 February 2007 - 01:28 AM

Harrop arms won't clear the caliper....... it still needs grinding
They are recommended if your using HQ stubs on a Torana ...... you can use the Torana arms as alot do ...... but may encounter bump steer issues
Depends how lowered it is too
Till its all bolted up and you can see the angles of the rack ends you won't know I guess

And you'd buy Harrop arms from...... um Harrop I guess

#29 arrimar

arrimar

    "Have you still got that Torana!"

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,134 posts
  • Location:brisbane
  • Car:Salamanca L34, Absinth LH SLR/5000, Caribean Blue LH 5.0, C250 Merc,
  • Joined: 13-January 06

Posted 15 February 2007 - 06:48 PM

why go to all the bother of grinding etc when a hq caliper will bolt straight on with a hq-z stub? if your after great brakes ,go for something exotic. if you want to use standard equipment then use something that fits.
here is what i wanted to replicate.

L34 pbr caliper.
Posted Image

this is what i had.
standard torana pbr caliper.
remove and throw away,remove stub and throw away.
Posted Image

this is what i did.
HQ pbr caliper.
put left hand hq stub on right hand side of car,fit UC steering arm,fit disc and caliper.
repeat for opposite side.
route hoses in a safe manner(ignore pic/not finished)
ensure caliper doesnt foul upper control arm.(some arms need a clean up of lower edge.)
Posted Image

now thats not rocket science is it?

#30 _azureblueslr_

_azureblueslr_
  • Guests

Posted 15 February 2007 - 08:37 PM

i did mine exactly the same as arrimar and they worked perfectly with no grinding or stuffing around i used a carby spring on each side to keep the brakelines positioned out of harms way and used harrop arms.these are a must have in my oppinion regardless of cost (i dont think there that expensive anyway )

#31 fuzzypumper

fuzzypumper

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 929 posts
  • Name:Archie
  • Location:Melbourne Eastern
  • Joined: 30-December 06

Posted 15 February 2007 - 10:24 PM

So why HQ calipers as opposed to HZ or better WB alloy ones? Is there a clearance issue with the later calipers on steering arm, control arm or brake line positioning ?

Also why use a HQ stub as opposed to a HZ stub? I believe one lowers front by an inch , but which is which? Considering I will be increasing rim size to 14" I suppose the difference will be only half an inch.
Currently my car is only lowered slighty and my tie rod arms are perfectly horizontal.

Azureblueslr said "these are a must have in my oppinion regardless of cost (i dont think there that expensive anyway ) ".
These A9X arms might be a must in the end but in my opinion $300 is a bit much for 2 pieces of steel with 3 holes in them.

Edited by fuzzypumper, 15 February 2007 - 10:36 PM.


#32 Toranamat69

Toranamat69

    Forum R&D Officer

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,117 posts
  • Location:Brisbane
  • Joined: 07-November 05

Posted 15 February 2007 - 11:33 PM

HQ calipers are a more rigid design and have a much better selection of pads available, the down side is they are heavy.
The later HZ alloy ones flex heaps and wear on the slide pin bores which are both undesirable - I'm not sure what the WB used.... Datto your turn :)

All the HQ through to HZ stubs will give you a 30mm drop and are essentially the same.

I have driven my car around using both UC and the A9X steering arms and the difference is quite noticable and I have also measured the bumpsteer and it supports what I felt when driving it - I would spend the $300.

$300 is a bit steep but that is called supply and demand (AKA extortion) - I am just happy someone makes them, would be hard to pry them from the A9X buggers these days - you could get solid gold ones for the price those cars' parts go for.

Perhaps a better option is to get a hoppers kit and use your Torana steering arms and stub axles and end up with even better brakes whilst maintaining reasondable bumpsteer?

M@

#33 TerrA LX

TerrA LX

    Fulcrum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,241 posts
  • Location:Sid 'n' knee
  • Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 15 February 2007 - 11:39 PM

So why HQ calipers as opposed to HZ or better WB alloy ones? Is there a clearance issue with the later calipers on steering arm, control arm or brake line positioning ?

Go back and read this tread from the start. There are some very informative pictures there as well.

#34 fuzzypumper

fuzzypumper

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 929 posts
  • Name:Archie
  • Location:Melbourne Eastern
  • Joined: 30-December 06

Posted 16 February 2007 - 12:12 AM

Yes Sorry ALX76, Im repeating issues.

Well I suppose at $300 for the A9X arms plus another $300 for Pins, calipers & discs , its till approx half the price off a hoppers kit @ $1200.
However by the time you add the fact that you need new rims & tyres due to the stud pattern change it may get up there again.

Does anyone know what stud pattern the hoppers kit is and what model disc it uses?

Edited by fuzzypumper, 16 February 2007 - 12:14 AM.


#35 TerrA LX

TerrA LX

    Fulcrum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,241 posts
  • Location:Sid 'n' knee
  • Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 16 February 2007 - 12:29 AM

However by the time you add the fact that you need new rims & tyres due to the stud pattern change it may get up there again.

Does anyone know what stud pattern the hoppers kit is and what model disc it uses?

@ $1200 they will give you any stud pattern you like.
your 13" wheels won't clear any of the mentioned upgrades,
as for any other questions about the hoppers kit maybe ask this guy http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=7766

#36 _Joe Moellers_

_Joe Moellers_
  • Guests

Posted 21 March 2007 - 06:26 PM

Guys, I can't find Harrop arms on Harrop's website. Are they Harrop for sure or Castlemaine Rod Shop? Thanks for all the other info. Wasn't aware my car would be another 30 mm or so lower. Oh well new springs (again).

#37 antelopeslr5000

antelopeslr5000

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,022 posts
  • Location:Toowoomba, Queensland
  • Car:1977 LX SL/R 5000
  • Joined: 10-November 05

Posted 21 March 2007 - 07:00 PM

You can find the arms here.

#38 _Joe Moellers_

_Joe Moellers_
  • Guests

Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:19 PM

Thanks antelopeslr500. Guess I'm a bit of a numpty using these new fangled computer thingys. Slowly learning though.

Joe

#39 REDA9X

REDA9X

    Removed

  • Inactive
  • Pip
  • 0 posts
  • Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 23 March 2007 - 08:47 PM

good to see you here Joe.

#40 micklx

micklx

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,785 posts
  • Name:Mick
  • Location:Frankston South
  • Joined: 18-November 05

Posted 21 April 2007 - 11:34 AM

How much more grinding to the caliper bracket is needed if UC steering arms are used instead of A9X (Harrop)arms ?

#41 _rorym_

_rorym_
  • Guests

Posted 20 July 2007 - 10:34 AM

I am thinking this might be the easiest solution for a sprint car like mine and NOS'
R

#42 _333_

_333_
  • Guests

Posted 03 September 2007 - 09:54 AM

How much more grinding to the caliper bracket is needed if UC steering arms are used instead of A9X (Harrop)arms ?

I have done it but it seems to much metal is removed so they can bolt up, I used the grease less tie rods but the tie rod can't move around as designed too as the HZ girlock caliper bracket sits to close to the top of the tie rod, you could remove a very small amount from the top of the UC arm for more clearance......I am thinking of going for the HQ PBR calipers less grinding required, $300 for the Harrop arms is the other option??

#43 _BCR42Y_

_BCR42Y_
  • Guests

Posted 09 May 2009 - 10:04 AM

Sorry to bring up an old post, but does anyone have a copy of torana's photo's that were in this thread?

Or a photo of a genuine A9X bracket for reference?

Edited by BCR42Y, 09 May 2009 - 10:08 AM.


#44 antelopeslr5000

antelopeslr5000

    Forum Fixture

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,022 posts
  • Location:Toowoomba, Queensland
  • Car:1977 LX SL/R 5000
  • Joined: 10-November 05

Posted 09 May 2009 - 11:48 AM

A9X Caliper.

Posted Image

#45 _BCR42Y_

_BCR42Y_
  • Guests

Posted 10 May 2009 - 12:06 AM

Thank you antelopeslr5000, you wouldn't happen to have a photo of a standard one for comparison by any chance?

I have a feeling that my girlock caliper brackets have been previously trimmed, but don't look like the above ones, wanted to get an idea of how standard untouched ones looked.

#46 Torryhead

Torryhead

    Forum Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 90 posts
  • Name:Dan
  • Location:Hollister, CA
  • Car:74 LH
  • Joined: 14-February 10
Garage View Garage

Posted 02 March 2010 - 12:09 AM

hey pal, i know this is an old post but hopefully you have it tagged. i have been reading through what you blokes have been saying about the A9X stubs but none of the pics work for some reason. was wondering if you could post them again or send them to me. thanks mate. i'm looking into lowering my car an inch and different stubs seems to be the best way :)

Dan

hi all
Im back from my holidays at tassie, and are back into the torana. Shouldnt be long before she rolling again.

Sorry YiriSS, but im on the central coast ( between newcastle and sydney about 4 hours from coffs harbour ) not sure if youll be down this far but pm me for more info.

As promissed here are the rest of the shots from the conversion

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 9: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from front
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 10: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from rear
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 11: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from rear
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
thats all for now. If anyone needs anymore info get in touch with me.
cheers julian



#47 _torana_

_torana_
  • Guests

Posted 10 July 2010 - 08:22 PM

hi all
have been asked to get original shots from my "grinding metal from brake calipers ( a9x style )" thread. Found them and uploaded to another server and cant modify the old thread so here it is with pics. If mods can pin as a sticky that would be great.

Enjoy Julian.


hi all
ive modified my lh torana to hq stubs on the front ( swapped from left to right ) and have bought a set of harrop a9x steering arms for the mod. I also have a set of wb calipers ( girlock alloy type ).

Now stop me if im wrong but what Ive read is that this is what was set up on the original a9x toranas. ( holden they made their own steering arms, and all calipers have same mounting arms, but calipers are cast iron or alloy )

I could place the stubs back the other way and have the calipers on the rear half of the front disc, but in full lock the pads hit the crossmember, and push the pads out ( not good next time you need to brake :D )

With the new harrop a9x arms ( to remove bump steer ) the tierod now sits higher, and fouls on the caliper. Ive heard of people putting the tierod end upside down, but then your steering arm isnt parallel to your lower control arm so your steering would be buggered so thats not an option. :(

I heard that the holden engineers ground the calipers to fit over the ball joint but have never seen a pic or set of ground a9x calipers in real life. Does anyone have a pic i could reference, as I have ground mine and they now clear the ball joint in full lock both ways and as well in full suspension travel, but i just wanted to make sure, as you have to grind a fair bit to fit over the tierod with full travel room, but theres still plenty of meat left, just wanted to double check.


Heres the conversion

As promised here are my pics of the torana to hq/wb conversion so far.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 1: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms from front
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 2: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms from rear
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 3: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms fitted to pasenger side with tie rod attached
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 4: passenger side caliper mounting bracket ( wb? ) with metal ground away for tie rod clearance
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 5: the master at work! :) ( note super cheap grinder/japanese safety boots/and petrol station sunnies )
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 6: both caliper mounting brackets ( wb? ) with metal ground away for tie rod clearance
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 7: passenger side caliper mounting bracket ( wb? ) with metal ground away for tie rod clearance mounted on car to show clearance ( make sure you check full lock and full suspension travel )
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 8: wb? caliper with commodore banjo style brake line and bleeder at the top
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 9: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from front
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 10: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from rear
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pic 11: hq stubs with harrop a9x steering arms and wb calipers ( modded ) and commodore brake lines from rear
Posted Image
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

hope you like, and thanks to everyone for the help so far.
cheers Julian

#48 _barbados1212_

_barbados1212_
  • Guests

Posted 21 January 2013 - 07:39 AM

sorry to dig up this old thread, but i am looking to do this conversion. just wondering if it's possible to use the torana stub and just machine 6mm off the outer diameter of the disc as Struggler has suggested in the HQ tutorial thread but using the girlock alloy caliper in this thread. would you have to take too much material off the caliper?

#49 _rob350hatch_

_rob350hatch_
  • Guests

Posted 21 January 2013 - 08:19 AM

i used hq cast iron pbr's the kidney shaped ones but we had to remove some of the upper control arm to stop the callipers from hitting them .and they had to go on the other way around.i tried cast iron girlocks they had similar issues.everything was ok until the harrop arms went on then we also had to weld some big arse stops to the lower control arms to limit steering lock .

#50 76lxhatch

76lxhatch

    That was easy!

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,195 posts
  • Location:Unzud
  • Car:SS
  • Joined: 04-August 08
Garage View Garage

Posted 21 January 2013 - 11:02 AM

would you have to take too much material off the caliper?

To fit the alloy Girlock with Torana steering arms, probably yes




1 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users