66 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Yes on all counts, only possible issue you may have is excessive negative camber for street use - see the 'ultimate front end' topic for more details on that (it may or may not be a problem)

[Toranamat69]

As much as I do not like to promote Whitelines line of Chinese quality products, these could be used in your front lower control arms to fix any excessive camber issues with that setup if you go too low or have a slightly sagged subframe.

http://www.whiteline...t_number=W52491

http://www.ebay.com....=item2326ec35ff

[76lxhatch]

Full suspension compression or droop at full lock isn't generally a concern, you have to be doing something quite strange to achieve that.

 

Compressing the piston against the cross member like that is though, the HZ calipers have the line attached in a different spot which is more out of the way (although longer hoses are desirable if not necessary).

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Has anyone else found that the centre brake hose bolt hits on the crossmember at normal ride height? The calipers are off a WB and they have been ground down to fit on the front of the disc. Also looks as though the caliper will hit on the top control arm if suspension is compressed on full lock.

 

 

Yep, just like the old CRS Commodore brake conversion for drum brake stub axles. I had it hit so hard going over a speed hump that the fitting loosened. So I had to drive home using the park brake only.

[TerrA LX]

Full suspension compression or droop at full lock isn't generally a concern, you have to be doing something quite strange to achieve that.

 

Full tilt gutter to gutter will do it, mate had a telegraph pole confirm it with his hatchback.

[76lxhatch]

That kinda proves the point, eh?

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Full suspension compression or droop at full lock isn't generally a concern, you have to be doing something quite strange to achieve that.

 

Maybe I should've mentioned mine fouled whist only taking a mild turn, definitely NOT on full lock. Full lock turns created other issues.

[76lxhatch]

That's not so good, the main problem with the images posted by barbados1212 above is that when the caliper makes contact its in such a manner that it could cause the piston to compress back into the caliper body. Particularly as the pads wear this means that there is some piston travel required before clamping the rotor, if this travel is more than one stroke of the brake pedal you could find the pedal on the floor at next application with no brakes!

 

Its possible that a shallower head on the banjo bolt may allow enough travel for the specific setup above, although what Vick says doesn't sound promising. I don't see why you couldn't block that hole and drill another in the caliper to fit the hose in a different spot.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

#1 The main problem with the images posted by barbados1212 above is that when the caliper makes contact its in such a manner that it could cause the piston to compress back into the caliper body....l you could find the pedal on the floor at next application with no brakes!

#2 Its possible that a shallower head on the banjo bolt may allow enough travel for the specific setup above.

#3 I don't see why you couldn't block that hole and drill another in the caliper to fit the hose in a different spot.

#1 That was the other problems that happened near full lock. I soon learnt that first I would put my foot hard on the brake BEFORE attempting to turn the car on full lock. That way the caliper would act as the new steering stop, rather than drain the caliper of fluid and finding the brake pedal on the floor.

 

#2 On full lock with the Commodore caliper, you would need a narrower fitting on the brake line AND a countersunk banjo fiting to REDUCE the problem listed in #1.

 

#3 You could block the hole, but the problem would be making sure the brake line sealed 100%. Impossible in your garage, but possible with the right (and expensive) machinery.

[dattoman]

Or you could remove the caliper Holden never put on a Torana... and replace it with one everyone else uses 

Theres a reason no-one uses WB calipers... now you know what it is

 

I'd be tossing them aside and fitting the cast iron HQ ones

And even then... keep an eye on your clearances cause you can still have calipers bumping into control arms and causing problems

[Uncle Chop Chop]

I did my conversion last century, a few years before I bought my first computer. Which was aboput a year before I first got home internet. After about six months, I did what Neil said and pissed off the calipers and put on something less worse. The brake problem was finally fixed when a friend of mine wrote the car off. The brakes were not the cause.

 

edit - i need a spel chek

Edited by Vick, 08 March 2013 - 08:35 PM.

[dattoman]

Even I can't remember back 8 yrs ago as to what was going on in my head when I made that post

 

I've always been an advocate of using the HQ caliper with kidney shaped pad

What people attempt to use is abit up to themselves

People still use UPC brake kits when told of the failings cause they think they are saving a couple of hundred bucks

So I guess people don't actually listen to alot of advice anyway

[Antelope Hatch]

In regards to calipers touching arms, perhaps the A9X style bump stops need to be considered a part of this conversion?  Obviously GMH found a problem and this was their remedy.

 

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