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What after market Auto shifter do you use??


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#26 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 03:46 PM

Speco should make a trimatic shifter.

#27 _Monkey_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 05:10 PM

A bracket was required to be made to make it work.

you can buy buy the brackets from speed shops that sell the B&M's ie:VPW,Superplus etc......... :burnout:

#28 _MAWLER_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 05:15 PM

Are you talking about hooking it up to a trimatic?

I have a pro ratchet that was in mine when I bought it. Had no end of dramas with the thing, skipping gears, moving at the shifter but not changing gears. Did a couple of things, had the linkages rebuilt which firmed up the movement heaps but still had some problems, found it to be the cable, as Tiny has said also. The cable had stretched at some point near very hot extractors or something so it would take two movements of the shifter to get it the desired difference. We took it out, greased it, mucked round with it a bit and its brilliant and I mean brilliant to up shifts, still doesn't work properly on down shifts tho - I'm leaving it for the moment cos I'm jack of it, hehe.

My trimatic is a manual valve bodied unit so its important that shifting is smack on, you might not need to rebuild the linkages etc. but make sure it is all hooked up spot on and you should be fine. They are great for quick shifting, ensure you don't over shift, lock you out of R and P but let you push it into N is you get a stuck throttle or something. I can get it into R and P one handed, its just a case of extending your middle and ring fingers to push on the red lever as you move the stick.

#29 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 06:52 PM

NEVER USE THE TURBO 350 lever on a trimatic. you must use a special bracket for the trimatic available from most performance outlets for all B&M & HURST shifters, or it will NEVER work properly no matter how its adjusted, because the lever ratio is wrong thats why the cable gets damaged because it gets forced at each end of the shifting sequence. the cables take a fair bit of heat before they give problems most times the cable gets damaged because of bad adjustment or wrong g/box selector lever. if the pro rachet is adjusted properly then the reverse lockout lever will stay forward once flicked forward, then you just rachet to reverse or park, if it does not do this then it is adjusted wrong. also the stop pin supplied for the pro rachet must be fitted to the shifter gate with the trimatic. im amazed how many shifters are set up wrong then the shifter gets the blame. if people read the instructions properly it will work spot on for many many years. its quite easy to set them up really :spoton:

Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 08 November 2006 - 06:59 PM.


#30 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 08 November 2006 - 07:23 PM

the reason you must use the stop pin supplied is to stop too many clicks into park on trimatics which will damage the cable, the reverse lockout lever will stay forward when flicked while shifter is in neutral only. on turbo 3spd turbo boxes you must use the rear selector lever hole on the gearbox lever not the most forward one or the shifter wont work properly as in a couple of clicks to get one gear (very annoying) ect. this applies to quicksilvers also hope this helps :D

Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 08 November 2006 - 07:24 PM.


#31 Tiny

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 10:18 AM

Bloody great info mate! THanks for that i'm SURE that will save some people some time!

Just to clear it up, mine's on a TH400 in the monaro and it's all cable system.

Cheers!

#32 _MAWLER_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 03:53 PM

the reason you must use the stop pin supplied is to stop too many clicks into park on trimatics which will damage the cable, the reverse lockout lever will stay forward when flicked while shifter is in neutral only.

O.k well I'm guessing mine doesn't have a stop pin fitted, because it has two positions in park. It has also never had the reverse lockout stay forward - I never even knew it was supposed to do this. Whats the problem for that then, purely wrong adjustment.

The bracket always was the trimatic one but it was judged too flimsy so a stronger one was made. Perhaps the cable damage is as a result of the bad adjustment which the previous owner was driving with, rather than excessive heat...

#33 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 09 November 2006 - 10:29 PM

liam its more than likely its an adjustment problem on yours as long as the ratio on the new selector lever is exactly the same as the old one you replaced, as for strength there should never be any real force on the lever as it only clicks the detent valve. and yes all B&M shifters are cable operated.

#34 _MAWLER_

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Posted 13 November 2006 - 03:53 PM

Hehe, checked on Saturday when I drove the car, the lockout stays forward like you said from N and I don't have to push it every time, the things you can learn, :D




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