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HQ stub axles(spindles)


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#26 dattoman

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 09:13 PM

Wilwoods I sell for $770 pair

Forward or rear mount doesn't make much real diffference on a street/targa car

#27 _rorym_

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 11:15 PM

Neil I will post info on clearence when I do it..I am pretty comfident they will clear the knuckle.
R

#28 A9X

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Posted 22 November 2006 - 11:16 AM

Rory, you are ahead of me in the build, i'm going to take a left at albequrque to explore the power steering issue.
Can you let me know what you settle on as to the best mix of all the UC LH LX LX RTS bits?

Thanks,

Welby

#29 _rorym_

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Posted 22 November 2006 - 04:46 PM

No worries Welby,
I am picking up the spare LH front subframe unit this weekend and have the Wilwoods,HQ slotted discs and UC arms. Will fit new ball joints,tierods nolathene bushes etc As Datto says..I will trial fit the whole unit on the workbench first to see clearences. The Wilwoods look close..will take pics and post what I find.
R

#30 _bodallafella_

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 09:41 PM

What part number are the Wilwoods you are using and can anyone explain how to work out which bore size you use with a standard master cylinder? A mate is thinking about putting a set on a HQ Monaro drag car.

#31 _rorym_

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 10:42 PM

Ask Datto!
R

#32 dattoman

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Posted 23 November 2006 - 11:47 PM

7476 is the normal one they use

Drag cars don't need big brakes on the front... as they have small contact patch
They use small brakes on the front and Dynalites on the rear

#33 _rorym_

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Posted 24 November 2006 - 12:56 PM

Welby,
I am lowering the Upper arms 25mm,using UC top arms,starting with UC steering arms to see how I go then fitting the brakes forward to see if all clears..I will make a start this weekend if I dont pick up the Toploader in Bris..will keep you posted.
R

#34 _rorym_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 01:43 PM

I now have a UC and LH front end side by side..not cleaned yet but I will post a pic to show the differences talked about up there ^^^
R

#35 _rorym_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 02:32 PM

Posted Image

The UC is the front one..notice the balljoint is off set to the rear.
Posted Image

The UC steering stop

Posted Image

Side by side..UC closet./dirtiest one.
R

#36 _rorym_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 02:50 PM

The LH UCA is located 40mm down from the flange lip...the UC is 25mm.
R

#37 _L31SLR_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 02:58 PM

I thought we were talking before about lowering the top control arm mounts 25mm lower on the LH front end? Maybe I missed something? Keep the build pictures comming rorym
L31SLR

#38 dattoman

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 04:02 PM

Those top arms aren't UC
UC are offset top balljoint

#39 _rorym_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 04:43 PM

First pic...right one came out of an LH...notice the grease nipple lines up with the bumpstop rubber and top mount...left hand..dirty one I personally dropped out of the UC...the top ball joint is not inline and offset to the rear..?..Or am I not looking at it right?

Neil? Dont you confuse me now!! :huh:
Charlie...25mm lower than the UC height..50mm down from the flange..I think thats what M@ did..I will go back and check.

Here tis!!

I have redrilled my UC one on the test bed to the same as what is in my car and that front end is an RTS LX front end. The bolts for the Upper control arm are about 50mm down from the flange - you could probably have drilled this one about 3 or 4mm lower if you were after every skeric but I was trying to simulate the setup in my car.

R

Edited by rorym, 25 November 2006 - 04:51 PM.


#40 _L31SLR_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 07:00 PM

So rorym should I start looking around for a UC sub frame now or wait until you have finnished and see how it all turns out?
So much for just changing the stub axles!
Are you not going to use the Harrop steering arms?
There is a UC in this blokes drive way down the road in bits and it hasn't moved for the last 18 months. Maybe I should make him an offer!
L31SLR

#41 dattoman

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 07:43 PM

Must just be the dirt then
Cause they didn't look very offset to me at first
Mine are cleaner and more obvious

Posted Image
Posted Image

#42 _rorym_

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 08:28 PM

Whew! Thank christ for that!!..I cleaned the dirt off..they are the same as Neils..Dattoman..WILL YOU STOP GIVING ME A HEARTATTACK! :spoton: Lol!
R

#43 _Oldn64_

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 07:01 AM

Dattoman..WILL YOU STOP GIVING ME A HEARTATTACK! :spoton: Lol!
R

Making the heart pump hard is a good thing.. ;) Personally I prefer exercise but hey...

Cheers :spoton:

#44 _rorym_

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 07:39 AM

Charlie,
I am going to use the UC subframe..its newer probably had less work and from what I understand it is exactly the same as the LH/X one (cept for the top arms)but has welded steering stops on it. I am starting with UC steering arms as I will be running heaps of Neg camber..
R

#45 _rorym_

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 07:40 AM

Posted Image
Posted Image

Thats better.
R

#46 dattoman

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 12:04 PM

Much better
UC rack mounts differently too
Its the better system so use the UC Xmember

#47 _rorym_

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 12:41 PM

Will do!
R

#48 _MRNOS_

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Posted 26 November 2006 - 04:11 PM

Hmm better get 1 for myself Rory

#49 _L31SLR_

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 11:08 AM

G'day guys,
Went and talked to the guy down the road yesterday about the UC sedan. Anyway cut a long story short he told me I could have it for nothing if I took everything.(Car has been stripped apart for painting. He's even throwing in the paint!) It's a 4cyl auto and looks pretty well rust free. Will post some pics up when I get it home. I now have my front sub frame.
Charlie (L31SLR)

#50 dattoman

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Posted 03 December 2006 - 07:35 PM

Don't suppose you want to cut up the bodyshell at the rear ?
I could do with the flat boot floor and I know someone is looking for a rear floorpan to assist fitting a genuiswine A9X Sailsbury diff




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