No worries Datto! Once I've got the bits I want it's a free for all! Don't forget that I live quite near the arsehole end of the world. You can't see it from here, but you can sure as hell smell it.
I'll take some pictures when I get it home and you can see if it's worth playing with.
Charlie(L31SLR)
HQ stub axles(spindles)
Started by
_L31SLR_
, Nov 11 2006 01:08 PM
111 replies to this topic
#52
Toranavista
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Posted 04 December 2006 - 05:26 AM
Just make sure the 4 cylinder UC is a starfire and not an opel as the opel front end is no good for your purpose. The Arms and rack could be used.
#53
_L31SLR_
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Posted 04 December 2006 - 10:41 AM
It has a starfire sticker on the aircleaner but is there a better way of identifying the engine? Can you see the difference in the front end easily? Thought it was too good to be true!
Charlie(L31SLR)
Charlie(L31SLR)
#54
dattoman
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Posted 04 December 2006 - 07:38 PM
If it looks like a Holden 6 with 2 cylinders sawn off its a misfire
Single side plate .... water pump looks 6 cylinder
Single side plate .... water pump looks 6 cylinder
#55
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 06:50 AM
G'Day All. Sorry for butting in. Can I pose another couple of questions relating to this thread;
1.Does anyone know if an after market Torana UC UCA to over come the camber problem associated with fitting HQ stubs?
2.what affect a longer UCA's would have on the steering geometry?
Dobo
1.Does anyone know if an after market Torana UC UCA to over come the camber problem associated with fitting HQ stubs?
2.what affect a longer UCA's would have on the steering geometry?
Dobo
#56
_rorym_
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#57
_rorym_
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#58
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 11:59 AM
I want some,
(Shiny box syndrome - ingrained in most soldiers)
Where do you get them Rory?
Welby
(Shiny box syndrome - ingrained in most soldiers)
Where do you get them Rory?
Welby
#59
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 12:10 PM
Do you mean the fubular arms ?
Or the stub extenders ?
Tubular suspension systems do both
But to get the Torana arms I think you need to do an overpriced group buy (4 sets) as they won't do them seperatly
http://www.tubularsu...s.com/index.htm
Or the stub extenders ?
Tubular suspension systems do both
But to get the Torana arms I think you need to do an overpriced group buy (4 sets) as they won't do them seperatly
http://www.tubularsu...s.com/index.htm
#60
_rorym_
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 12:42 PM
Grant (enderwigginau) sent them to me.
R
R
#61
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 02:07 PM
Thanx Guys. Yeh I ment upper control arms, but now I'm curious why would you need stub axle extenders?
Dobo
Dobo
#62
dattoman
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 02:23 PM
Over to Toranamatt for that explaination
#63
Toranamat69
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 08:23 PM
I hassled the guy at TSS for about a year during 2004 to make some tubular Torana arms and he said wouldn't do it unless he got another 9 people locked in to but a pair each.
He told me he didn't make them for Toranas but then Grant told me about those ones but apparently he used to make them but had issues with them and stopped production.
TSS also stopped making the spindle extenders about 2 or 3 years ago as no-one was buying them.
I have a chromoly set I bought from the US but they suit a Chev top balljoint and need to be machined to fit the Torana but I may use a chev balljoint yet, I'm not sure.
They do basically the same thing as moving UCA mount down by 1", except you get 2 times the change as the spindle extenders are 2" tall.
It gives you a more aggressive camber curve.
M@
He told me he didn't make them for Toranas but then Grant told me about those ones but apparently he used to make them but had issues with them and stopped production.
TSS also stopped making the spindle extenders about 2 or 3 years ago as no-one was buying them.
I have a chromoly set I bought from the US but they suit a Chev top balljoint and need to be machined to fit the Torana but I may use a chev balljoint yet, I'm not sure.
They do basically the same thing as moving UCA mount down by 1", except you get 2 times the change as the spindle extenders are 2" tall.
It gives you a more aggressive camber curve.
M@
#64
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 08:42 PM
Dobo,
I would say longer UCA's would have very small effect on the suspension geometry - the amount you would be talking about to fix your camber issues anyway but alas no one makes them.
It sounds like you may have a case of the crossmember sag which seems reasondably common.
I have the HQ stubs both in my car and on my test bed front suspension currently in my workshop and they can just be adjusted nicely to the correct camber setting (although there is only tiny shims in each front stack).
I have posted the measurement of my front suspension somewhere to check against but you need it out of the car to check which is a lot of work.
I have calculated out that it does help get rid of some of the negative camber (worth 4mm of shims) to move your UCA mounts down 25mm as described in other threads. I haven't actually measured how many degrees this is worth but I can do so soon as I have my test jig up and running again.
Is your car lowered? as this combined with the HQ stubs could be what is causing your problem.
M@
I would say longer UCA's would have very small effect on the suspension geometry - the amount you would be talking about to fix your camber issues anyway but alas no one makes them.
It sounds like you may have a case of the crossmember sag which seems reasondably common.
I have the HQ stubs both in my car and on my test bed front suspension currently in my workshop and they can just be adjusted nicely to the correct camber setting (although there is only tiny shims in each front stack).
I have posted the measurement of my front suspension somewhere to check against but you need it out of the car to check which is a lot of work.
I have calculated out that it does help get rid of some of the negative camber (worth 4mm of shims) to move your UCA mounts down 25mm as described in other threads. I haven't actually measured how many degrees this is worth but I can do so soon as I have my test jig up and running again.
Is your car lowered? as this combined with the HQ stubs could be what is causing your problem.
M@
#65
Toranamat69
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Posted 03 January 2007 - 09:22 PM
The HQ stub axles are 30mm lower ride height than the Torana ones - I actually measured them yesterday.
M@
M@
#66
_Dobo_
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Posted 04 January 2007 - 06:09 AM
Thanx again Guys. It certainly is a relief to to hear from poeple that actually know what they are talking about instead of coping a heap of verble diarrhoea.
Thanx again Dobo
Thanx again Dobo
#67
_L31SLR_
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Posted 04 January 2007 - 08:46 PM
G'day all
It's great to have the discussion going again. It would be awesome if at the end of this thread we had a front end set up that was about as good as we could get it with available torana parts that we could all use.
It would be great if Rory could put some pictures of how his front end was comming along. I saw a couple on his project thread but some progress pictures would be great. Please!
I got my new camera today so I will take some pictures of the UC I picked up(with the Starfire eng) tommorrow and post them up and keep you posted on how I'm going
Charlie L31SLR
It's great to have the discussion going again. It would be awesome if at the end of this thread we had a front end set up that was about as good as we could get it with available torana parts that we could all use.
It would be great if Rory could put some pictures of how his front end was comming along. I saw a couple on his project thread but some progress pictures would be great. Please!
I got my new camera today so I will take some pictures of the UC I picked up(with the Starfire eng) tommorrow and post them up and keep you posted on how I'm going
Charlie L31SLR
#68
_rorym_
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Posted 04 January 2007 - 09:32 PM
UC front cross member,UC top arms, UC rack, Nolathene everything. UC steering arms. HQ Slotted. Wilwood calipers. 1100lb front springs, Koni shocks set at 10/10. as per HDT specs.I will post more pics when the springs and shocks are fitted but for the money..I reckon you would be hard pressed to get a cheaper/better value front end. After watching the build of this thing from scratch you mongrels better come out and watch it run and fire a shot in anger!
R
Edited by rorym, 04 January 2007 - 09:41 PM.
#69
_L31SLR_
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Posted 04 January 2007 - 10:59 PM
Love your work Rory! I know this is alot to ask but whats the chances of getting the part numbers for the Nolathane bush kit? I need to get some for mine. Hope I'm not pushing the friendship!
Cheers
Charlie L31SLR
Cheers
Charlie L31SLR
#70
dattoman
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Posted 05 January 2007 - 02:16 AM
Charlie you want Nolothane or Noltec ?
I can get you prices on Noltec if need be
I can get you prices on Noltec if need be
#71
_L31SLR_
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Posted 05 January 2007 - 02:35 AM
G'day Datto
I am going to completely overhaul the front end before I fit it. New bushes, balljoints wheel bearings etc etc. I've never heard of Noltec but if they are any good get me some prices. Cheers.
Whats with the unemployed bit? Hows the shop going?
I'm still trying to finnish off the diff and rear disc conversion at the moment. Will post up some pictures of the rear brakes and the park brake cable brackets I made up etc once I've got it all home from work.
Take it easy
Charlie L31SLR
P.S. Have you still got that LJ?
I am going to completely overhaul the front end before I fit it. New bushes, balljoints wheel bearings etc etc. I've never heard of Noltec but if they are any good get me some prices. Cheers.
Whats with the unemployed bit? Hows the shop going?
I'm still trying to finnish off the diff and rear disc conversion at the moment. Will post up some pictures of the rear brakes and the park brake cable brackets I made up etc once I've got it all home from work.
Take it easy
Charlie L31SLR
P.S. Have you still got that LJ?
#72
_rorym_
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Posted 05 January 2007 - 05:15 AM
http://www.redranger...c_selection.php
The kit is EVOHOL2 which is race application for everything..Think HOL1 is the street one.
R
The kit is EVOHOL2 which is race application for everything..Think HOL1 is the street one.
R
Edited by rorym, 05 January 2007 - 05:19 AM.
#74
dattoman
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Posted 05 January 2007 - 10:22 AM
Yup still got the LJ
But you have enough cars so forget about it....... lol
I'll get a list together and email you re bushes,balljoints,tierod ends etc
Noltec is the new company started by Peter Nolan after he sold Nolothane off many years ago
They are softer than the Nolothane (some people complain the red ones are too hard)
I haven't heard any bad reports about them yet
We have some in some race cars and trackskill driver training cars we are beating up on but nothing failed yet
The Nolathane panhard bushes were lasting 3 days in the trackskill cars....... so far Noltec is at 9 days and still going. So we might be on a winner
But you have enough cars so forget about it....... lol
I'll get a list together and email you re bushes,balljoints,tierod ends etc
Noltec is the new company started by Peter Nolan after he sold Nolothane off many years ago
They are softer than the Nolothane (some people complain the red ones are too hard)
I haven't heard any bad reports about them yet
We have some in some race cars and trackskill driver training cars we are beating up on but nothing failed yet
The Nolathane panhard bushes were lasting 3 days in the trackskill cars....... so far Noltec is at 9 days and still going. So we might be on a winner
#75
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 05 January 2007 - 10:39 AM
I have a complete EVOHOL2 kit and the K-frame mount kit for sale in Perth if anyone is interested.
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