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HQ stub axles(spindles)


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#101 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 February 2007 - 02:52 AM

Thanx Toranamat69 it's much clearer now,
cut from that link "When designing a car, if the centerline of the outer tie rod lines up with the centerline of the lower ball joint, and the inter tie rod lines up with the lower pivot point then the length and angle of the tie rod and suspension will be the same resulting in zero bump. Most car builders design their cars in this fashion."
^ this is what we are chasing right?
Cheers :spoton:

EDIT; i will be sticking my nose under the front of the group C's next time there at the track to see where their at. :D

Edited by ALX76, 19 February 2007 - 02:57 AM.


#102 _LX-5000_

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 01:43 PM

Thanks dattoman, had a feeling this might be the case. But how do i know where to redrill uca mount holes, is there a measurement that you know of ?

#103 dattoman

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 03:42 PM

Theres another thread (at least one) on front ends
Read the RTS one I think you'll find all you need in there

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=14102

#104 _LX-5000_

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 09:37 AM

Thanks dattoman,
About 3 hrs reading there, will read it all again & see if i can find some answers.
cheers craig

#105 _rorym_

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Posted 23 February 2007 - 07:35 AM

Here is the bumpsteer curves for the HQ to HZ stubs fitted to a Torana using all 3 options of steering arms.
As the rumours say, the A9X arm is the one to use. These measurements were taken using 3 degrees positive castor.

Interrestingly, it would be even closer to ideal if I wound the castor up to about 4 degrees positive and the UC steering arm one would be the pic if I was running more like 1 to 1.5 degrees positive castor.

Posted Image

M@

With UC arms, 4 deg negative for the radial slicks and 2 deg castor I think I am on the money then.
R

#106 Toranamat69

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Posted 23 February 2007 - 03:43 PM

If those are the settings you want to run, probably not too bad but not ideal - it will still toe in on bumps.

The reason I don't like or want that sort of a setup for mine is
1. The tire wear issue and
2. You are setting it up so it will have a sweet spot where it will go through a corner the fastest rather than having it progressively bite into the corner the faster you go.
That is how toranas have been setup to 'Handle' for years though to overcome their deficiencies.

I threw that mould away.

#107 _rorym_

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Posted 23 February 2007 - 10:01 PM

2. You are setting it up so it will have a sweet spot where it will go through a corner the fastest rather than having it progressively bite into the corner the faster you go.

Perfect for a 2 klm sprint car,...not a daily road car..Thats what I am after. If it was/is a circuit car...I would fit the A9X arms.
R

Edited by rorym, 23 February 2007 - 10:01 PM.


#108 _rorym_

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 08:50 PM

One for M2
What springs are you running?
Lbs?
R

#109 _rorym_

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Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:00 AM

swap stubs from left to right, harrop steering arms to prevent bump steer, and calipers on the front ( may have to grind bracket ) if you put the calipers on the rear ( wb ones anyway ) on full lock the upper swing arm pushes the pads. Not good

mind if i ask how much the wilwoods cost dattoman? ( I would want to grind them to fit )

cheers julian

Just re reading this...This isnt possible...If you swap the stubs left to right...the caliper mounting goes to the back of the stub making it impossible to mount the caliper to the front or did I miss something?
R

#110 arrimar

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Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:12 AM

they start at the back when HQ..
swapping sides puts them on the front.

#111 micklx

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Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:12 AM

Torana brakes are at the front, WB are at the rear of the stub axle, so by swapping L to R you end up with them at the frobt still.

#112 _rorym_

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Posted 28 April 2007 - 10:44 AM

DOH! Thanks Howard...That makes sense..The Willwoods wont clear so I am running them at the rear. I am going over to the wreckers now to check the 4 HX/Z one tonners.
R




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