Hey guys! <---- I always seem to say that for some reason!!
As many of you will know i will have a V8 in my UC within the coming weeks. In empt of that, i'd like to start expanding my knowledge.
Firstly: What is the humble holden V8 like with regards to holding together (and i'm not just referring to the 253, the 308 counts here too) under a lot of revs? Like, up to 7000rpm (believe me - my V8 will rev to that).
What is the bore and stroke of both the 253 and 308?
What parts are interchangeable between the 253 and 308?
Do they have the same block bolt pattern, i.e. can you fit the same gearbox to your 308 that you had on the 253? Assuming they are both red motors.
What simple mods do the V8's react well to? Good octane fuel?
What is the FACTORY ignition timing setting for the V8's?
What carby would you recommend for a 253 with a stage 3 cam and headwork (i.e. equivalent to my 179, but a V8)!! I was thinking of a 465 holley...
As above for a 308? I woud say a 600 holley or quaddie... Am i close?
What viscosity oil would you run in a fresh V8?? 50w? 60w??
Thats me for today, i'll leave you guru's to it!
Cheers
Keith
A few things about a Holden V8
Started by
_Keithy's_UC_
, Nov 27 2006 06:29 AM
23 replies to this topic
#2
_MRNOS_
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 07:45 AM
With a big budget, anything can be revved hard and survive...for awhile, although my old VK engine used to take 7000rpm for about 3years with no probs, but if you're going to build 1, good rods, valve springs etc are needed the normal hi-po stuffHey guys! <---- I always seem to say that for some reason!!
As many of you will know i will have a V8 in my UC within the coming weeks. In empt of that, i'd like to start expanding my knowledge.
Firstly: What is the humble holden V8 like with regards to holding together (and i'm not just referring to the 253, the 308 counts here too) under a lot of revs? Like, up to 7000rpm (believe me - my V8 will rev to that).
What is the bore and stroke of both the 253 and 308?
What parts are interchangeable between the 253 and 308?
Do they have the same block bolt pattern, i.e. can you fit the same gearbox to your 308 that you had on the 253? Assuming they are both red motors.
What simple mods do the V8's react well to? Good octane fuel?
What is the FACTORY ignition timing setting for the V8's?
What carby would you recommend for a 253 with a stage 3 cam and headwork (i.e. equivalent to my 179, but a V8)!! I was thinking of a 465 holley...
As above for a 308? I woud say a 600 holley or quaddie... Am i close?
What viscosity oil would you run in a fresh V8?? 50w? 60w??
Thats me for today, i'll leave you guru's to it!
Cheers
Keith
Can change gearboxes as long as they're same bolt pattern-ie trimatic/aussie is the 253, make sure the 308 is too-if you're doing the efi engine it'll be turbo/chev pattern
Quadrajets are pretty good for a 253-holleys chew the juice, always use BP ultimate in my engines
Edited by MRNOS, 27 November 2006 - 07:46 AM.
#3
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 10:06 AM
Firstly: What is the humble holden V8 like with regards to holding together (and i'm not just referring to the 253, the 308 counts here too) under a lot of revs? Like, up to 7000rpm (believe me - my V8 will rev to that).
They are pretty damn tough! haha any old holden stuff is pretty good. I have never taken my engine out to 7000 but i know Makka does... so with the right internals anything is possible!
What is the bore and stroke of both the 253 and 308?
Cant think of them both off the top of my head, but both motors have the same stroke, its just the bores that are different
What parts are interchangeable between the 253 and 308?
Pretty much everything is, manifolds, heads, exhaust, cams... all that jazz all the same, you just have to make sure if you putting 308 stuff on a 253 that u arent flooding it
Do they have the same block bolt pattern, i.e. can you fit the same gearbox to your 308 that you had on the 253? Assuming they are both red motors.
Yes, There are Trimatic/Aussie Four speed pattern 253/308's. Then there are Turbo pattern 308's (not sure if there are turbo pattern 253's)
What simple mods do the V8's react well to? Good octane fuel?
Change the carby and get it jetted to suit your motor (a good 4 Barrel carby), Get an Elec Dizzy, Extractors. That will get you a fair bit of bit out of a 253 or a 308
What is the FACTORY ignition timing setting for the V8's?
I Believe that its set at 6 or 8degrees... i cant think of it off the top of my head..
What carby would you recommend for a 253 with a stage 3 cam and headwork (i.e. equivalent to my 179, but a V8)!! I was thinking of a 465 holley...
Get a Quaddy! but change the jets to suit the engine! have a Quaddy on my 290 and it goes really well (Oldn64 built one to perfectly suit my engine
) And my old 253 with a stg 2 cam ran a Quaddy as well and it went very nicely as well
As above for a 308? I woud say a 600 holley or quaddie... Am i close?
Yeah again, get a quaddy and get it jetted, if its got vaccum secondaries you can put around on the primaries and its fairly economical...
What viscosity oil would you run in a fresh V8?? 50w? 60w??
[b] i run Penrite HPR40, and i use to run HPR50...
They are pretty damn tough! haha any old holden stuff is pretty good. I have never taken my engine out to 7000 but i know Makka does... so with the right internals anything is possible!
What is the bore and stroke of both the 253 and 308?
Cant think of them both off the top of my head, but both motors have the same stroke, its just the bores that are different
What parts are interchangeable between the 253 and 308?
Pretty much everything is, manifolds, heads, exhaust, cams... all that jazz all the same, you just have to make sure if you putting 308 stuff on a 253 that u arent flooding it
Do they have the same block bolt pattern, i.e. can you fit the same gearbox to your 308 that you had on the 253? Assuming they are both red motors.
Yes, There are Trimatic/Aussie Four speed pattern 253/308's. Then there are Turbo pattern 308's (not sure if there are turbo pattern 253's)
What simple mods do the V8's react well to? Good octane fuel?
Change the carby and get it jetted to suit your motor (a good 4 Barrel carby), Get an Elec Dizzy, Extractors. That will get you a fair bit of bit out of a 253 or a 308
What is the FACTORY ignition timing setting for the V8's?
I Believe that its set at 6 or 8degrees... i cant think of it off the top of my head..
What carby would you recommend for a 253 with a stage 3 cam and headwork (i.e. equivalent to my 179, but a V8)!! I was thinking of a 465 holley...
Get a Quaddy! but change the jets to suit the engine! have a Quaddy on my 290 and it goes really well (Oldn64 built one to perfectly suit my engine
) And my old 253 with a stg 2 cam ran a Quaddy as well and it went very nicely as wellAs above for a 308? I woud say a 600 holley or quaddie... Am i close?
Yeah again, get a quaddy and get it jetted, if its got vaccum secondaries you can put around on the primaries and its fairly economical...
What viscosity oil would you run in a fresh V8?? 50w? 60w??
[b] i run Penrite HPR40, and i use to run HPR50...
#4
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 12:34 PM
revving to 7000 and making good power at 7000rpm are two different things, why do you say its going to rev to 7000. the reason i ask is it takes a pretty decent size cam, single plane manifold and good heads to get it up there, if youve got all that then thats all good, but if you have say a 286 cam, performer manifold ect. then forget the 7000 thing, the reason i question this is you need a decent bottom end also, like i say if its built right then no drama . but i sugest not revving it that high if it doesent make power up there it will just wear things out alot quicker. whats your actual engine combo?
#5
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 01:30 PM
The Group C Toranas ran to 6800 at Bathurst, which I believe is the limit of a standard crank in any long term application.
I know of a 304 here in WA that ran to 8600 on a std VN crank, but it broke after 140 passes down the strip. Factory rods correctly prepped with ARP bolts won't have a problem lasting as long as the crank.
Everything else as 1QUICKLJ has mentioned above, revving to 7 is one thing, making power and making an engine last at those rpms are something different.
I know of a 304 here in WA that ran to 8600 on a std VN crank, but it broke after 140 passes down the strip. Factory rods correctly prepped with ARP bolts won't have a problem lasting as long as the crank.
Everything else as 1QUICKLJ has mentioned above, revving to 7 is one thing, making power and making an engine last at those rpms are something different.
#6
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 02:58 PM
I'm glad you bought this up... I want it to rev as hard as my 6cyl. My 6 is making power from go to 6500rpm - I'd never rev a motor to some ridiculous amount of revs unless it actually kept making power. Not to sound rude, but i'm quite a lot more intelligent than you take me for guys! Revving a motor when it's not doing anything other than revving is like taking a fat chick to the nightclubs - you'd do it once and hope nobody saw you, and never do it again.
There's some crazy things happening to standard cranks all over Aus at the moment by the sounds of things!!
Cheers
Keith
There's some crazy things happening to standard cranks all over Aus at the moment by the sounds of things!!
Cheers
Keith
#7
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 03:14 PM
You cant put big valve heads on a 253 as the valves foul on the bore.
A 308 bore is 4.004" (101.6) and stroke is 3.062" (77.775).
A 253 bore is 3.625" (92.075) same as a 202 and stroke is 3.062" (77.775).
Because the 253 has a smaller bore and lighter pistons the counterweights on the crank are smaller than the 308 and therefore not interchangeable.
Before deciding what your rev limit is get it dyno tuned and see where the peak power is.
For higher revs the motor needs big valves, high lift cam, single plane manifold and 4 into 1 extractors.
For low down torque a standard valves, mild cam, dual plane manifold and tri-y extractors.
If you want to run VN heads they dont suit a 253 and the cam, manifold and extractors are different.
James
A 308 bore is 4.004" (101.6) and stroke is 3.062" (77.775).
A 253 bore is 3.625" (92.075) same as a 202 and stroke is 3.062" (77.775).
Because the 253 has a smaller bore and lighter pistons the counterweights on the crank are smaller than the 308 and therefore not interchangeable.
Before deciding what your rev limit is get it dyno tuned and see where the peak power is.
For higher revs the motor needs big valves, high lift cam, single plane manifold and 4 into 1 extractors.
For low down torque a standard valves, mild cam, dual plane manifold and tri-y extractors.
If you want to run VN heads they dont suit a 253 and the cam, manifold and extractors are different.
James
#8
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 05:56 PM
you dont need it to rev it as hard as the six, as it will go way harder anyway i know heaps of blokes that pull 10- 11sec with holden 8s using no more than 6500-6800 theres no way your six ran 11s by the sound of it, so the v8 will be alot quicker why rev it so hard, if you have to rev it to 7000 just to make a bit more power than your old six then it would be a very gay combo indeed.
with a v8 its about torque also, you just dont need to scream a good combo. im not having a go but revs dont mean big power thats wank talk. 7000 + on the street is all about sad stories of worn out parts and blown up motors and motors with crap torque. sorry but thats just the way it is. show me anyone that has had a 7000+ rpm motor in a car for 10years thats driven regularly and i mean every weekend very rare indeed.
its a well known fact that going from a 6000rpm motor to 7500rpm the life of the motor is halved. ive built a few 10sec motors using no more than 6800 myself you dont need 7000 simple as that if someone is telling you that you need that many revs then get someone that knows what their doing to build the motor instead.
i judge peoples knowledge by what they talk about, i noticed you talk of cams in staged terms man youve got a long way to go if thats your knowledge of cam specs ect,please dont take me the wrong way on this,if i think someones going the wrong way id rather try and help them, im not knocking just trying to help with what ive learnt from over 20 years of playing cars and engines.
with a v8 its about torque also, you just dont need to scream a good combo. im not having a go but revs dont mean big power thats wank talk. 7000 + on the street is all about sad stories of worn out parts and blown up motors and motors with crap torque. sorry but thats just the way it is. show me anyone that has had a 7000+ rpm motor in a car for 10years thats driven regularly and i mean every weekend very rare indeed.
its a well known fact that going from a 6000rpm motor to 7500rpm the life of the motor is halved. ive built a few 10sec motors using no more than 6800 myself you dont need 7000 simple as that if someone is telling you that you need that many revs then get someone that knows what their doing to build the motor instead.
i judge peoples knowledge by what they talk about, i noticed you talk of cams in staged terms man youve got a long way to go if thats your knowledge of cam specs ect,please dont take me the wrong way on this,if i think someones going the wrong way id rather try and help them, im not knocking just trying to help with what ive learnt from over 20 years of playing cars and engines.
Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 27 November 2006 - 06:01 PM.
#9
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 06:07 PM
you dont have to listen to me ask some other guys that have built strong engines that last such as BOTTELDUP and struggler and all the other guys on here that have exstensive knowledge on this subject also, just tryin to save you some money and probably some heartache. i will lastly just say this, when you venture into 7000+ engines boy you gotta know your shit thats for sure.
i will lastly just say this, when you venture into 7000+ engines boy you gotta know your shit thats for sure.
Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 27 November 2006 - 06:11 PM.
#10
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Posted 27 November 2006 - 08:40 PM
my hydraulic cammed 308 makes power to 6800, no need to rev em furthur than that!! and that is with a very simple combo in the engine and tri-y headers
#11
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Posted 28 November 2006 - 06:34 AM
My apologies 1QUICKLJ, all i know with V8's at this stage is "Stages" of camshafts. I cant tell you what lift or duration the camshaft I want has as every motor can tolerate different things...
For instance, my 6 has the following camshaft:
Duration - In & Ex 280
0.050 Duration - In & Ex 217
Cam lift - In & Ex 286
Valve lift - In & Ex 456
Lobe spread - 111
I know that it revs and makes power from 1800rpm until 6500rpm. It runs a 350 Holley and pacemaker 6-2-1's and has 140rwhp (i know - it aint much!). It has been chassis dyno tuned. This combination with a 4speed manual and 3.08:1 diff gearing managed to run a 14.7 down the 1/4 mile with no use for 4th gear on the strip (daily driven car)!
When i purchased my camshaft it had written on it "Stage III". I'd consider it a stout combo for a daily!!
I understand where your coming from, and understand that calling cams and heads in "stages" is like selling a rusted out car as "slight rust". It doesnt define exactly what it does or has and can be misleading to others. But until i start researching more on camshafts i'm gonna go with the layman talk.
Thanks too JBM and timbotorrie for your words!!
While i'm on the topic, i have a mate in Mt Isa who builds drag motors for a living. He is down my neck about the motor for the LX and insists that he should build it for me because he's gotten over 600 ponies from chevs with ease and rekons i could see near on 700hp with the right work...
Cheers
Keith
For instance, my 6 has the following camshaft:
Duration - In & Ex 280
0.050 Duration - In & Ex 217
Cam lift - In & Ex 286
Valve lift - In & Ex 456
Lobe spread - 111
I know that it revs and makes power from 1800rpm until 6500rpm. It runs a 350 Holley and pacemaker 6-2-1's and has 140rwhp (i know - it aint much!). It has been chassis dyno tuned. This combination with a 4speed manual and 3.08:1 diff gearing managed to run a 14.7 down the 1/4 mile with no use for 4th gear on the strip (daily driven car)!
When i purchased my camshaft it had written on it "Stage III". I'd consider it a stout combo for a daily!!
I understand where your coming from, and understand that calling cams and heads in "stages" is like selling a rusted out car as "slight rust". It doesnt define exactly what it does or has and can be misleading to others. But until i start researching more on camshafts i'm gonna go with the layman talk.
Thanks too JBM and timbotorrie for your words!!
While i'm on the topic, i have a mate in Mt Isa who builds drag motors for a living. He is down my neck about the motor for the LX and insists that he should build it for me because he's gotten over 600 ponies from chevs with ease and rekons i could see near on 700hp with the right work...
Cheers
Keith
#12
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Posted 28 November 2006 - 03:42 PM
ok cool, you wont get 700hp out of a 308 std stroke, youd be lucky to even get near that even with a 355 or 383, it would be one hell of a motor not to mention the dollars involved and it wouldnt be very streetable thats for sure, and if we are talkin a 253 then around 250-280hp @flywheel is about the upper limit for a streeter,
correct me if im wrong here but you sound a little confused when it comes to realistic power figures, believe me if you have an honest torquey 380hp @flywheel 308 in your UC you'll battle to keep it in a straight line on the street even into top gear, you'll need a shiftlight cause it will get there so quick you wont be worrying about wether its doing 6500 or 7000 rpm, you will be more concerned about grabbing another gear and keeping the car straight.
i will try and explain something here with the six you'll tend to ring its neck because it only has limited power dont get me wrong 140hp @wheels is pretty good for your old combo, but with a strong v8 it will be totally different you'll have more power to spare so in certain situations you wont even get to peak rpm because sometimes you will be wheelspinning already too much or car will be sideways or be going too quick down a road so you will shortshift because you wont need anymore power in those situations so the revs become less of a big deal, whereas the six your tryin to squeeze every little bit it has, as the car wont be going anywhere as fast or sideways anywhere as often as the v8 hope you get what i mean
correct me if im wrong here but you sound a little confused when it comes to realistic power figures, believe me if you have an honest torquey 380hp @flywheel 308 in your UC you'll battle to keep it in a straight line on the street even into top gear, you'll need a shiftlight cause it will get there so quick you wont be worrying about wether its doing 6500 or 7000 rpm, you will be more concerned about grabbing another gear and keeping the car straight.
i will try and explain something here with the six you'll tend to ring its neck because it only has limited power dont get me wrong 140hp @wheels is pretty good for your old combo, but with a strong v8 it will be totally different you'll have more power to spare so in certain situations you wont even get to peak rpm because sometimes you will be wheelspinning already too much or car will be sideways or be going too quick down a road so you will shortshift because you wont need anymore power in those situations so the revs become less of a big deal, whereas the six your tryin to squeeze every little bit it has, as the car wont be going anywhere as fast or sideways anywhere as often as the v8 hope you get what i mean
#13
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 28 November 2006 - 04:04 PM
i dont know what size donk your building heres a couple of tried and proven combos you can build:
253:
deck block get comp to 9.5.1
ported std valve heads (do not put in L34 valves
chev LT1 valve springs
crane H264 cam (degree cam in)
HQ 4 barrell manifold
450 mech sec 4360 model holley
electronic dizzy good coil
1 1/2 in genie try /ys
good dyno tune
(good for 13sec in torrie)
308:
deck block
flatop pistons
10.1 comp
ported heads L34 valves
crane 286 hyd or H226 cam
performer manifold
600dp holley
electronic dizzy good coil (MSD even better)
1 5/8 try/ ys
3/8 fuel line and decent fuel pump
good dyno tune
( good for low 12sec torrie)
both these combos will make your six feel like a slow dog believe me both these combos work awesome try em you wont be dissapointed.
253:
deck block get comp to 9.5.1
ported std valve heads (do not put in L34 valves
chev LT1 valve springs
crane H264 cam (degree cam in)
HQ 4 barrell manifold
450 mech sec 4360 model holley
electronic dizzy good coil
1 1/2 in genie try /ys
good dyno tune
(good for 13sec in torrie)
308:
deck block
flatop pistons
10.1 comp
ported heads L34 valves
crane 286 hyd or H226 cam
performer manifold
600dp holley
electronic dizzy good coil (MSD even better)
1 5/8 try/ ys
3/8 fuel line and decent fuel pump
good dyno tune
( good for low 12sec torrie)
both these combos will make your six feel like a slow dog believe me both these combos work awesome try em you wont be dissapointed.
#14
MRLXSS
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Posted 28 November 2006 - 04:13 PM
Here are the specs for my 253 Stroker...
I took it down the strip a year ago and it had fuel problems, and i was running headers not extractors at the time.. be was only a 15
290 Stroker Specs
Oversized Valves Ex- 1.550 In- 1.850 (supposably commodore cup size?)
Street Port
Stroker Grind Crank
Balanced and Blue Printed
305 Chev Pistons
SJ Chev Conrods
Bonded Harmonic Balancer
Edelbrock Torker Manifold
4into1 Genie Extractors
Compression 9.5:1
Cam specs- 2000-4800rpm
In 280˚
Ex 280˚
Lift .472
Bore 3.766 Stroke 3.180
It also runs a Fully Rebuilt Rochester Quadrajet that had been jetted to suit my motor..
It is still in desperate need of a dyno tune.. hopefully over summer she will get one!
Im hoping to crack the 13's with this combo next year at the GMH-Torana Drag day...
I took it down the strip a year ago and it had fuel problems, and i was running headers not extractors at the time.. be was only a 15
290 Stroker Specs
Oversized Valves Ex- 1.550 In- 1.850 (supposably commodore cup size?)
Street Port
Stroker Grind Crank
Balanced and Blue Printed
305 Chev Pistons
SJ Chev Conrods
Bonded Harmonic Balancer
Edelbrock Torker Manifold
4into1 Genie Extractors
Compression 9.5:1
Cam specs- 2000-4800rpm
In 280˚
Ex 280˚
Lift .472
Bore 3.766 Stroke 3.180
It also runs a Fully Rebuilt Rochester Quadrajet that had been jetted to suit my motor..
It is still in desperate need of a dyno tune.. hopefully over summer she will get one!
Im hoping to crack the 13's with this combo next year at the GMH-Torana Drag day...
Edited by 253ToranaSS, 28 November 2006 - 04:16 PM.
#15
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Posted 28 November 2006 - 06:30 PM
Which motor & g/box/auto are you going to use & what do you intend to use it for?
If it's your first v8 then just keep it simple & have fun.It is easier to start with a 308 because of the extra cubes over a 253.
If it's your first v8 then just keep it simple & have fun.It is easier to start with a 308 because of the extra cubes over a 253.
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Posted 28 November 2006 - 09:29 PM
253toranass i would prob change the torquer to a performer it will give you a far wider and stronger power range
#17
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Posted 29 November 2006 - 06:14 AM
Your combo sounds good there 253toranaSS! Good spec work too!
1QuickLJ, with regards to 700HP, i was referring to a chev motor for the LX that my mate in Mt Isa wants to build for me... I'd be dreaming to try and aim for that with a 253 or 308!!
Well, i suppose i should explain myself a bit now because i was going to try and build this motor (for the UC) without spilling the beans to you guys. Yes it is a V8, and at the moment i'm still in the purchasing stage (i have to inspect this motor before i lay down cash)...
It's a black 308 (VK commodore??). This motor was built for a drag car (gemini) and old mate changed his mind and bought a chev for it!!
He is selling the motor 'running and complete'. It also comes with (as additional extras) Yella Terra roller rockers (in the box still), brand new pushrods, your gonna hate me for this 1quickLJ - Stage V heads (i do not have specs until i see this motor in the flesh), tri-y extractors brand new never used, isky valve springs, torquer manifold and 650 Holley. He is throwing in a spare dizzy (electronic) for the hell of it too.
This combination sounds too good to be true provided the motor has not been overbored. He only wants $2200 for the whole lot. That means i'll be converting the UC to auto... and stalling it... and most likely looking for a new diff pretty soon.
I dont have the cam specs for it yet, but i'll get them within the next 2 weeks (i'm at work for another week and a half).
On another topic, my drop tank will be fitted while i'm home also.
Cheers
Keith
1QuickLJ, with regards to 700HP, i was referring to a chev motor for the LX that my mate in Mt Isa wants to build for me... I'd be dreaming to try and aim for that with a 253 or 308!!
Well, i suppose i should explain myself a bit now because i was going to try and build this motor (for the UC) without spilling the beans to you guys. Yes it is a V8, and at the moment i'm still in the purchasing stage (i have to inspect this motor before i lay down cash)...
It's a black 308 (VK commodore??). This motor was built for a drag car (gemini) and old mate changed his mind and bought a chev for it!!
He is selling the motor 'running and complete'. It also comes with (as additional extras) Yella Terra roller rockers (in the box still), brand new pushrods, your gonna hate me for this 1quickLJ - Stage V heads (i do not have specs until i see this motor in the flesh), tri-y extractors brand new never used, isky valve springs, torquer manifold and 650 Holley. He is throwing in a spare dizzy (electronic) for the hell of it too.
This combination sounds too good to be true provided the motor has not been overbored. He only wants $2200 for the whole lot. That means i'll be converting the UC to auto... and stalling it... and most likely looking for a new diff pretty soon.
I dont have the cam specs for it yet, but i'll get them within the next 2 weeks (i'm at work for another week and a half).
On another topic, my drop tank will be fitted while i'm home also.
Cheers
Keith
#18
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Posted 29 November 2006 - 02:36 PM
sounds like a bargain, i assumed you were talking about holden 8s going by the thread title, mate i wouldnt hate you for talking in stages it just makes it hard to work out whats what. like how long is a long piece of string. anyway that motor sounds good, i will say this, even a chev @ 700hp aint no street donk. when you get the specs for the 308 put up here interested to check it out
#19
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Posted 29 November 2006 - 06:08 PM
cheers for that..... illl probably look into that when i drop that engine into the hq and convert it to gas....253toranass i would prob change the torquer to a performer it will give you a far wider and stronger power range
#20
_Keithy's_UC_
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 30 November 2006 - 06:14 AM
Yeah, the LX is not going to be a street car... Show, occasionally driven on the road, and drags. No expense is going to be spared on the LX. It's an all in project car.
I'll put em up as soon as i get them.
Cheers
Keith
I'll put em up as soon as i get them.
Cheers
Keith
Edited by Keithy's_UC, 30 November 2006 - 06:15 AM.
#21
myss427
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- Location:Canberra
- Car:427 hatch, CV8 Monaro, Ve SSV ute. Was part owner A9X sedan until he sold it without telling me!
- Joined: 17-November 05
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Posted 30 November 2006 - 09:53 AM
Good luck getting any where near 700 hp out of a small block( you need Nos or blowers to get that), I cant get that out of my big block with out seriously going bigger internals and mine is not very street friendly now.
#22
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 30 November 2006 - 11:21 AM
I've seen it done before. High compression and the right camshaft on a chev, with the right carburation and exhaust setup can see 700HP.
As i said earlier - this car will not be a daily like my UC is... BIG DOLLAR PROJECT CAR!! I'm not stripping it down for the hell of it!
Cheers
Keith
As i said earlier - this car will not be a daily like my UC is... BIG DOLLAR PROJECT CAR!! I'm not stripping it down for the hell of it!
Cheers
Keith
Edited by Keithy's_UC, 30 November 2006 - 11:22 AM.
#23
_1QUICK LJ_
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 30 November 2006 - 12:02 PM
yes you can get 700 hp out of a decent cube 400+ci small block but it will cost you $25-$30k+ just in parts to build it. oh yeah strictly race fuel only, no more servos. hope you have heaps of money 
Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 30 November 2006 - 12:06 PM.
#24
_Keithy's_UC_
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Posted 30 November 2006 - 09:34 PM
I work at the mines... Need I say more...
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