683 replies to this topic

[micklx]

Should have known this thread would head off topic when I saw the word BUST in the title.

[rodomo]

That was covered on page 1 Mick:
http://www.gmh-toran...opic=12177&st=0

[TerrA LX]

Rob has been possessed by DA

[rodomo]

5. Port matched, hand finished, extractors.

These are the extractors that have always been on the motor. They are Motorvators.
I've never really been happy with them but there aren't much better around unless I want to spend big bucks.

The "off the shelf" stuff all seem to have some sort of manufacturing "quirk" about them from what I've seen. Whether it be the way they weld the primaries to the header plates, the shape of the collectors and the way the pipes, primary and secondary, are welded to the collectors.

So I bought a set of these. $99 at Total Tools.



Then proceeded to match port and hog out the header plates.



Another problem I have found with "off the shelf" extractors is the way the secondary pipes are fitted INTO the collectors.

So I cut them off and removed the portion of pipe protruding into the collectors.







Then, using the RoDoMo flaring tool, put a slight flare on the end of the secondary pipes.



And welded them back on OVER the collectors rather than INTO.



These are the prototype, I have better ones for when the R&D developments are complete

[76lxhatch]

Love the flaring tool, I'll have to remember that for next time

[TerrA LX]

Careful you don't cross PM's pattern pending.

[rodomo]

Careful you don't cross PM's pattern pending.

Basic plumbing I thought?

[Heath]

Was it hard to seperate the collector and the secondary? Looks great

[rodomo]

Not the easiest task.
Obviously thin cutting discs were used and the cut finished with a hacksaw as the discs wouldn't go the depth in the area where the 2 pipes are close together.

I cut "just" to the collector side of the middle of the original welds if that makes sense?

You can see in a pic above that the pipe was still welded in places but I could get a grip with pliers and twist it out to a degree. The burrs and angle grinder helped to complete the task.

If you cut too far above the weld, you would have trouble getting them to match up again I think.

Edited by rodomo, 06 December 2009 - 10:14 AM.

[Heath]

Ok

[makka]

hows this thing coming along? my fishing is going well!

[micklx]

I've been building a decking out the back of my house.
I'll be able to spend my spare summer evenings sitting on my banana lounge with a beer in one hand while I gaze at my 308 powered Racecar sitting in the shed and wonder what crazy mod Rob is doing next in his quest to beat me ............

[Heath]

For a club day or a fun day?

[rodomo]

rob, did you ever get to winton??
No. I thought I'd be better off saving the $200 or so and spending it on chrome grease nipples and dipstick like Mick's got.
im planning a return attack late march or april. maybe others are keen too?
I want to go to a club day next year. Maybe a HSV day and kick Rotten Ronnies butt.

[ToRunYa]

Then, using the RoDoMo flaring tool, put a slight flare on the end of the secondary pipes.

i want a dna profile! im concerned we may be related! (scary huh! )

[rodomo]

Put the battery on charge last week..............
Then forgot all about it
I had pos - pos but stuck the neg on the chassis.
Found the charger going tonight with all lights lit?

I reckon I've Polarized it!

Edited by rodomo, 26 January 2010 - 12:12 AM.

[Heath]

So you got that nos you were talking about hooked up yet?

[Heath]

Yeah not long at all. I was just over there on an espionage mission of my own. I've noticed that rodomo is working hard to come up with his own improvements, but I have no doubt that they will be insufficient in protecting his position.

He's not posting because he's still out there in the shed working hard to think of things that I haven't already beat him to

[rodomo]

what was that front wheel bearing mod you were talking about.

At Calder in 2008, the front brakes got that hot that the wheel bearing grease spat all over the inside disc face. Calder is hard on brakes and I have no brake ducts...........yet (I've never had a problem at Sandown)

The Commodore front hub seals (which I think are the same as box Torana?) aren't what I'd call a positive seal in that if pressure builds up inside the hubs greased area that it can push grese past the seal.

Also, and I'm not certain of this bit, but I think the seal lips may have started to melt as the grease exiting them was black but the grease still in the hub was clean.
Either the grease was burnt from fiction as it passed the seal or the blackness was from the seal it's self?...................I'm open to other theories.

So.............back to old school.
I went to a bearing supplier with measurements and replaced the hub seals with a double lipped spring tensioned seal and drilled a tiny hole in the hab caps. (Like old Holden)

This way, any pressure should exit through the hole, and, hoplfully not take grease with it. If it does, it will go out onto the wheel, rather than onto the discs.

Pity the car has only done 2 1/2 laps though to test this.


New front hub seal part number: 175.232.25

Hayden..........watch this space

[rodomo]

Either the grease was burnt from fiction as it passed the seal or the blackness was from the seal it's self?...................I'm open to other theories.

Another theory might be brake dust?

[76lxhatch]

The Commodore front hub seals (which I think are the same as box Torana?) aren't what I'd call a positive seal in that if pressure builds up inside the hubs greased area that it can push grese past the seal.

I thought this was why most workshop manuals tell you not to fully pack the hub itself with grease?