683 replies to this topic

[rodomo]

A couple of positives from the day.

The heat sheild was barely warm to touch and the fuel bowls were cold.
The mega-muff passed the 75 decibel test.

A couple of vids..........hopefully?????

The Thunder Bolt Grease Slapper trying hard and revving it's ring out on the main straight.


Rotten Ronnie on a Sunday drive.......Compare the revs and gear changes.
It's like he's on his was home from golf and heading to Bay St for a latte'.


Then there was this..............
(The Nissan, not Makka)


And then............sadly...........*snigger*...........this.........


No, it's not a burnout.

Edited by rodomo, 18 May 2010 - 09:02 PM.

[micklx]

Wish I could've been there but other things came up.
When are you going to give Phillip Island a try ?

[rodomo]

Once I'm happy with the accellerator linkages I'll be going to other tracks hopefully.
Sandown is the "test track" because it's the closest.

[rodomo]

No oil cooler Hayden. The sump fits 6 litres. Could probably do with one though.

Gunmetal LH: Thats what I was thinking too. I'll probably end up re-designing the whole thing because it's all backwards.

Edited by rodomo, 19 May 2010 - 08:24 PM.

[rodomo]

Keep us updated on that throttle problem, I have the same issue with off idle driveability.

Would love to see what you come up with, some great and cheap ideas in this thread!

I dont know if we have the same problem?
My problem is if I want full throttle, it's touchy coming off idle, sticks sort of.
Once off idle it's O.K.
This is a lot of the time at W.O.T or idle, not often at part throttle.

I had a look tonight and it might be as simple as shortening the short links from the common shaft down to the levers. Right now they are as short as the adjustment allows so I might have to buy a die nut and run them down a bit shorter.

AIR CLEANERS:
Picked up an ironing board similar to this off hard garbage. Took it home, cut the mesh out, and had it back out on my nature strip before the truck came.



Bought a sheet of this from Clark rubber for $10. It's called air conditioner filter in the shop.




Made up a set of these. I have masked about a third to try to stop unwanted turbulence over the piston vents.







I had done the same mod to the Holley air cleaner prior to the drag day but never got to try it.




The reg, gauge and fuel block.

[rodomo]

ahhahahahahaah i love the engine management module!

THAT was a very hi-tech, unique piece of Holden ingenuity in its day.
AND it held all the mystery of a Polarizer!

Didn't do much but every mechanic had to undo the lid and have a look inside.

[rodomo]

Hey rob is the problem in the linkage angles?, i had a prob with my old xu1 with the same symtoms it was very close to either idle or flat as it was very hard to get a progressive opening. it was 2 things the engine had alot of mani vacume at idle and with the linkage pivot points set for racing it was not goiod u know, long lever working on a short one, so i made a long lever at heater box end of linkage and it solved that issue.

Sort of but this is different to genuine XU1 set-up. SU's, dodgey plastic ball pivots, cable rather than solid link............All after market stuff.

The red dot is the butterfly shaft and the yellow dot is the torsion rod.
The arrows show direction of rotation of the shafts and cable pull direction.

Pic 1(a) is how it was at idle.
1(b.) is foot flat but you can see that the adjustable link was hitting the torsion rod before full throttle was acheived.

2(a) & (b.)
When Makka and I checked full throttle, I moved the adjustable links up a hole.
This gave it more stroke but it also meant the starting angle at the butterfly was more acute. As I pushed the pedal, it was trying to lift the butterfly shaft up rather than turn it, hence the stickyness trying to get it off idle.

3(a) & (b.)
I'm hoping if I shorten the adjustable link I can put them back in the middle hole. It will time the 2 levers better (bring the torsion rod lever down) and hopefully find a happy medium?

The plot thickens................
While I'm at it, I want to move the acc. pedal a bit more away from the brake (too close for my likeing) and pivot a pedal off the floor (like LC) to operate it rather than the free hanging pedal. Then I might start heel and toe-ing my gear changes as now I have to twist my ankle 184.2 degrees.

4
Is noughts and crosses and its your move.

Edited by rodomo, 21 May 2010 - 12:16 AM.

[Heath]

While that idea is not bad at all, I think you're overestimating the complexity of his problem. Some minor geometry changes should sort it out

Edited by Heath, 22 May 2010 - 09:02 PM.

[rodomo]

Thanks for the input guys but it's in a Commodore and they are straight cable, no linkages between the pedal and the engine.

Gunmetal LH, I think I'd prefer a solid link for positive closing?

Hayden, I had a look at a set of CD's today, the lever is on the opposite side of the butterfly shaft and the linkages push down to open whereas the SU's pull up.

I've got on to some cheap steel ball pivots, I'll buy a couple and let you know if they are suitable.

In the mean time, I have a few coat hangers at my disposal to cut up and bend to replicate the 3 adjustable links to see if there is a medium.

Edited by rodomo, 23 May 2010 - 01:09 AM.

[warrenm]

It may improve the angles if you lift the pivot balls away from the manifold using 1"/1.5" spacers. I used a similar setup on my Torana as it uses Commodore pedal & cable.

[rodomo]

Yes. I'll be looking at that too. I was thinking of maybe a 12mm x 50mm length of aluminium bolted to the mounting points on the manifold.
Then I can move the pivots along closer to the levers for better support of the torsion rod and it will also allow me to move the levers further away if needed.

[rodomo]

I have 3 springs at the butterfly pivots and 2 more at the cable.

But, the way it is now, if a spring were to fall off at the pivot, the other 2 pivot springs would close the 3rd butterfly as they are solidly linked.

[rodomo]

Fiddle fiddle.............fiddle fiddle.............

The R&D team have spent an hour or 2 in the shed and here is the report:

If the ratio of the hypotenuse is adjusted to the axis of the parallelogram, then the tangent of rotation will be such that the angle of the giggle pin will align with the laffin shaft.

Basically, if I shorten the adjustable links by 25mm it should work. AND it only cost me 1 coat hanger!
What am I gunna do with the other 19 that came in the pack?

I just have to identify the thread on the adjustable links and find a die nut.

3(a) & (b.)
I'm hoping if I shorten the adjustable link I can put them back in the middle hole. It will time the 2 levers better (bring the torsion rod lever down) and hopefully find a happy medium?

Also, it's running lean, the earth strap is white all the way around.
It has RH needles.
I'm thinking 2 sizes richer?
RF?
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle/

Edited by rodomo, 25 May 2010 - 11:51 PM.

[greens nice]

i would be checking for air leaks, rh's are already a pretty rich needle.
im running OA7's and it gives me near spot on 12.4 a/f