Winton or bust!
#126
Posted 23 April 2007 - 12:34 AM
#127
Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:09 AM
I had to think in my brayn though.
The puller I have is a "she'll be right" $2 shop "spethal". I have used it 4 or 5 times on Holden balancers and other stuff with no probs. but this was stubborn.
I drilled 3 x 1/4" holes parallel to the crank. to "relieve" the grip the balancer had on the shaft. The red arrows show the holes. The holes were drilled "staggered" to the threaded "puller" holes as if it were too weak near these threaded holes the threads "might" have stripped and I would have been in more crap than a Werribee duck! The holes were drilled to a depth of 25mm, not quite the depth of the balancer, so no swarf would enter the engine. In other words I didn't quite drill them through. I wrapped masking tape on the drill bit to indicate depth. The balancer is made from cast iron and is easy to drill. After the holes were drilled the same puller was used and the balancer virtually fell off.
You might see the bend in the puller thread from the effort prior to drilling. Yellow arrow. And the damage to the thread to the left from the friction.
The green lines show how much the balancer had slipped backwards toward the timing case, as well as torsionally.
You can see in this pic that the balancer had started to "machine" the timing cover.
The LJ donated the water pump pulley and the extra pulleys on the balancer have been left off. Happy heath?
All done and hopefully running again tonight (Wed)
Edited by rodomo, 24 April 2007 - 12:15 AM.
#128 _CHOPPER_
Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:17 AM
Today is Tuesday.All done and hopefully running again tonight (Wed)
#129
Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:22 AM
#130 _CHOPPER_
Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:25 AM
#131
Posted 24 April 2007 - 12:32 AM
#132
Posted 24 April 2007 - 01:10 AM
#133
Posted 24 April 2007 - 08:43 AM
If you had Wednesday off I'd come around for the whole day
Anyway, let me know if my aid would be of assistance to you any evening this week.
#134
Posted 30 April 2007 - 01:25 AM
That was Mrs RoDoMo's Corolla to and from Sadnow
I did see my mate in his 2ltr Turbo Bluebird miss his P.B. by only .02 of a second though. He runs 1.29-30 and is half way up/down the time sheets V Porche 944's (which he eats for lunch, they let them go at approx 200mtr intervals and he rounded up 3 of them in 6 laps) Ferrari's and 2 LJ's couldn't get near him. Coad was one in an orange LJ.
About 4.30pm Sat. reality hit that if I had of stayed up until 5am, grabbed 5&1/5mins sleep, moved the caravan out of my driveway, went and picked up a tandem, come home again and loaded the car that I "might" have got a stint or 2 in before falling asleep
I was no doubt depressed as I have been "busting a gut" since loosing a weekend on the car to boy's UC prang.
But I said to myself: "Self" I said, go anyway, have a day off, and relax.
Anyway the day "ignited the flame" and I was out there again tonight dummy fitting the fuel tank.
Here are some pics from other things that happened this week.
The "billet" fuel tank adapter was manufactured. It was cut to length then a hole was drilled down it's length. The "bolt" was then mounted in a drill and the drill mounted in the vice and locked on. An angle grinder was used to "contour" the shape and the adapter was "finished" with a file and emery while the drill was still going. This fits in the "bung" hole at the lowest point of the tank.
The catch can was fabricated. The plastic fittings came from the Bunnings garden department ($12 all up) and the hose was $3 a metre. The wire inside the hose is mig wire that I wound around a big screwdriver and pulled through the hose to stop it from collapsing. I mounted the catch can higher than the rocker cover so that any oil would collect in the hose, hopefully, and drain back before it got to the can. The plan here is that the "catch can" relieves pressure rather than catch oil. The coiled wire might help to catch the oil droplets, let it drain back, and let the pressure pass over?
All 4 calipers were re-kitted and the best of 3 master cylinders was chosen for a re-kit. Turns out the one off the car had been re-sleeved with a stainless sleeve so that was the one to be re-kitted. The rear backing plates were relieved. As it is 4W disc, I had to leave the top section intact to accomodate the "emergency" brake cables.
The budget at the moment wouldn't allow for slotted rotors so the pads were slotted instead at a tangent to rotation. I'm not sure what effect this will have but surely it can't hurt? A 3mm cutting disc on the angle grinder was used to 1/2 the depth of the pad lining. I now have directional pads.
The lower quarters have been "tidied" (car must be in a "presentable" condition)
Prior to initially starting the car (a couple of months ago) I fitted a piece of nylon flywire to the top hose before the radiator. This motor is an unknown and had had obvious cooling issues and had also sat for 2? years in my shed.
I removed the flywire when I had the radiator out to do the harmonic balancer.
This motor has only run approx 20 mins in total since fitted and the flywire is half blocked
#135
Posted 07 May 2007 - 10:55 PM
There are sprints on at Winton (14/7) and Phillip Island (3/6) as well as Morwell Hillclimb (2/6 and 1/7) so theres plenty to choose from. And thats just the events my clubs are involved in.
#136
Posted 08 May 2007 - 12:41 AM
I actually drove the car yesterday, 6 feet backwards and 6 feet forwards
This has only taken 151 days to achieve
At least now it key starts, runs drives and stops. There are only incidentals to finish off so June 3 is a possibility (but so was 17th Dec & 28th Jan at Winton & 29th April at Sandown )
To do list:
Fit 3.3 varajet fuel pump. (Bigger diaphram)
Refit bonnet grill & boot lid
Fit 2 front window regs. (were electric) and drivers door glass (don't ask)
Fit fire extinguisher for S/Down.
Bonnet pins for S/Down.
Secure Air cleaner
Calibrate fuel guage to suit 120y sender and assemble dash.
Replace brake fluid with something better (research required here) any suggestions???
Wire up brake lights and rear indicators (wiring is there now)
Time permiting:
Move battery to rear pass. floor area.
Paint panel repairs. (Currently in undercoat)
Fabricate and fit front brake ducts.
The brake hoses have been replaced with VL hoses as the "word" is that the early hoses suffered "ballooning" meaning they swelled under pressure and pedal travel increased. The ones with the "criss cross" braiding are the early hoses.
A strainer was fitted to the fuel tank adapter inside the tank. This is a strainer for a paint spray gun and normally goes on the suction pipe in the pot. It took a bit of fitting down the filler neck
More weight has been removed:
Old school rules!
#137 _LXChev366_
Posted 08 May 2007 - 07:10 AM
Fit fire extinguisher for S/Down.
Replace brake fluid with something better (research required here) any suggestions???
With Fire Ex, they must be within 2 years of Date of manufacture, or have been serviced and re-stamped etc. Oh and be fitted with a steel bracket not plastic, and I recall that it must also have 2 securing straps. I am not sure if that is mandatory yet.
Brake Fluid, ring ?? Autopro as they sell racing brake fluid(they might have to get it in for you) . I cant remember what I use..I will go out to the shed tonight and look.
For rules... CAMS Manual I believe is on their website (cams.com.au).for stuff like that... check the index.
Edited by LXChev366, 08 May 2007 - 07:12 AM.
#138 _LXChev366_
Posted 08 May 2007 - 10:02 PM
#139
Posted 09 May 2007 - 12:05 AM
The extinguisher I have is new and complies, something else my mate made me aware of before I bought one.
#140
Posted 16 May 2007 - 12:50 AM
To do list:
Fit 3.3 varajet fuel pump. (Bigger diaphram)
Refit bonnet & grill.
Fit fire extinguisher for S/Down.
Bonnet pins for S/Down.
Secure Air cleaner
Replace brake fluid with something better (research required here) any suggestions???
#141 _brett_32i_
Posted 17 May 2007 - 07:49 AM
i grabbed a set for my uc but were a different fit. i assume they shoul go onto your commy though?
Or maybe early comms are same as torry and Vk/L will fit....
#142
Posted 17 May 2007 - 11:04 AM
#143
Posted 17 May 2007 - 05:57 PM
Thanks for the tip guys!
I'm off to the shed to drill big holes in them!
#144
Posted 30 May 2007 - 12:28 AM
Bonnet pins
Cut holes in lower valance (no time for ducts though) better than nothing.
VK mirrors (fully cowled and not wind effected)
Wheel upgrade from 195/50/15 on standard SL/E rims to 225/50/16 on HSV Maloo rims ($158 off e-bay and only need 1 tyre ) And a bigger footprint than 13"
Creative use of 100mph tape (lucky it comes in different colours)
Few stickers here and there
Might even get to finishing buffing it if I'm lucky?
Hmmmmm can't quite see the boot lid?????
Edited by rodomo, 30 May 2007 - 12:37 AM.
#145
Posted 30 May 2007 - 01:54 PM
#146
Posted 30 May 2007 - 02:17 PM
#147 _@milco@_
Posted 30 May 2007 - 03:39 PM
#148 _1uzbt1_
Posted 30 May 2007 - 04:48 PM
Love the whole approach you have taken with this thing,fun on minimal cost.
#149
Posted 30 May 2007 - 05:05 PM
I have a 3.45 in the pipeline and it will be locked so no need. The 2.6 is LSD and will be for sale in the next couple of months.I might be able to get you a 3.08 LSD center in a couple of weeks, straight swap for your 2.60, I will shoot you a pm later
#150
Posted 30 May 2007 - 05:07 PM
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