i've been told to steer right away from torries with sill rust, is this sound advice or can it be repaired with not too much trouble? just thought i'd get a second opinion on the topic.
rusted sills
Started by
_lexa_
, Jan 04 2006 02:13 PM
28 replies to this topic
#2
_Flamenco_
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Posted 04 January 2006 - 04:54 PM
I've done the sills (with help) on my old LJ coupe. We used the rare spares replacement panel which seemed to fit fine. I don't think you should steer clear of every torana with sill rust - a lot will have it. When we changed mine we used an oxy torch but the job took about half the day - then sanding filler etc took a bit more time.
#3
Toranavista
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Posted 04 January 2006 - 06:12 PM
The problem will not be whether it can be fixed but rather who is going to do it and how much? This link might give you an idea as to whether you can do it yourself or need professinal help. http://www.rustrepair.com/11_steps.htm
Try to get an idea from a panel shop as to how much to repair and if the panels are available and at what cost. At the end of the day my advice would be spend a bit more on a good body and the rest can be fixed cheaply.
Try to get an idea from a panel shop as to how much to repair and if the panels are available and at what cost. At the end of the day my advice would be spend a bit more on a good body and the rest can be fixed cheaply.
#4
_SLR5000_
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Posted 04 January 2006 - 06:43 PM
I had a section of sill fabricated as my repairer sugested the replacement sills were not as good as a panel he could make himself.
I took his word on that & he did a superb replacement section & paint for $700 that was over two years ago now & it is still perfect. I also pumped Fish Oil Septone brand through sills.
The fellow that did my rust repair is a rust specialist, that is all he does, I told him I did not want it bogged up & I wanted a job that would last, he highly recommends Fish Oil.
I took his word on that & he did a superb replacement section & paint for $700 that was over two years ago now & it is still perfect. I also pumped Fish Oil Septone brand through sills.
The fellow that did my rust repair is a rust specialist, that is all he does, I told him I did not want it bogged up & I wanted a job that would last, he highly recommends Fish Oil.
#5
_dags383_
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Posted 05 January 2006 - 07:49 PM
I only replaced a 1/2 metre section on my LJ but used the sill I had drilled from another Torrie as I needed the end piece that sits under the guard. This made it as easy as to replace as once the old piece was removed the new one slipped straight in. I was originally told the rare spares panels did not fit as they should. I learnt that the hard way when i used one of there bottom guard replacement panels. 
It is not a job for anyone who does not know how to weld or does not have basic body repair knowledge but if any torrie has only sill rust it is worth saving.
It is not a job for anyone who does not know how to weld or does not have basic body repair knowledge but if any torrie has only sill rust it is worth saving.
#6
Bart
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Posted 05 January 2006 - 09:32 PM
Im doing the sill as we speak, i got the rare spare sills, i havnt fitted it yet but soon to i hope. The end peice which rounds off behind the gaurd can be fabricated, but then again it dosnt have to be round as you dont see it anyway.
Check out the sills on the red XU1 in this site
http://www.canberratoranaclub.com/
Check out the sills on the red XU1 in this site
http://www.canberratoranaclub.com/
#7
_SLR5000_
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Posted 05 January 2006 - 09:51 PM
Holy Hell! He has put a lot of work into the car! My sill was no where near as bad as that on the red XU-1.
#8
_@milco@_
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Posted 05 January 2006 - 11:15 PM
i dont think this is a real xu-1......Im doing the sill as we speak, i got the rare spare sills, i havnt fitted it yet but soon to i hope. The end peice which rounds off behind the gaurd can be fabricated, but then again it dosnt have to be round as you dont see it anyway.
Check out the sills on the red XU1 in this site
http://www.canberratoranaclub.com/
#9
_@milco@_
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Posted 05 January 2006 - 11:23 PM
i dont think this is a real xu-1......Im doing the sill as we speak, i got the rare spare sills, i havnt fitted it yet but soon to i hope. The end peice which rounds off behind the gaurd can be fabricated, but then again it dosnt have to be round as you dont see it anyway.
Check out the sills on the red XU1 in this site
http://www.canberratoranaclub.com/
the holes for the under window chrome have been drilled it does nto have the gmh welded on rivets...
also
nice welded on guards.....
there could be a reason for the guards.... ( old ones damaged)
but the rivets i do not see why any one would remove them................
mabe it's a reshell...... but the car he was using for the reshell was pretty f*ed ... imagin what the gold gtr or xu-1 was like ( the one the guards came off)
#10
_postal_dood_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:58 PM
hang on,, ill go take a few picies of mine... then u can see how bad they REALLY get...
#11
_postal_dood_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:15 PM
ok here we go...
the rear window...
here we have a close up.
and here we have the front right gaurd,.,
or u could view tha hole car at https://cache.gmh-to...stal_dood/?sc=3
the rear window...
here we have a close up.
and here we have the front right gaurd,.,
or u could view tha hole car at https://cache.gmh-to...stal_dood/?sc=3
#12
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:31 PM
Pretty easy repair, at least your dealing with simple shapes for new bits of metal. Wouldn't cost that much to get repaired professionally either, all straightish sheet metal.
Proper link to the XU-1. XU-1 Restoration
What brings you to that conclusion Einstein?
If you'd of seen the car before Ian picked it up you'd know that they were totally rusted off. Ian did the complete restoration himself after doing one of the night courses in car restoration.
I went and saw the car before Ian bought it with a professional panel beater who knocked the car back because it was too far gone.
I'll leave it to Redslur or Ian to comment further.
Proper link to the XU-1. XU-1 Restoration
i dont think this is a real xu-1......
What brings you to that conclusion Einstein?
If you'd of seen the car before Ian picked it up you'd know that they were totally rusted off. Ian did the complete restoration himself after doing one of the night courses in car restoration.
I went and saw the car before Ian bought it with a professional panel beater who knocked the car back because it was too far gone.
I'll leave it to Redslur or Ian to comment further.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 06 January 2006 - 01:37 PM.
#13
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:40 PM
Postal Dood, we had to do a similar repair to BMXer's car when we painted it. Front and rear screen sills gone are pretty common. Looks like everybody, including myself, thought you were talking door sills, which are a much larger, although similar job.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 06 January 2006 - 01:42 PM.
#14
_postal_dood_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:48 PM
yeah,,, the door sills on mine have been fixed,,, but they werent exactly in the best shape before... lol... 
and how did u repair the window sills??? sheetmetal>/?
cheers michael.
and how did u repair the window sills??? sheetmetal>/?
cheers michael.
#15
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 02:21 PM
You need some panel skills. It's pretty easy to do when you know how. You also need to be pretty handy with oxy/MIG.
It's basically a case of little by little, cut a little rectangle of sheet metal, scribe the sill, cut the sill, weld in the new bit (being mindful of not putting too much heat in, i.e. no continuous welding, use a wet cloth first up cause you'll tend to put too much heat in first up). Repeat infinitum till you have it all done, then grind back. Obviously the better you can get the shape, and the longer the pieces the less painless the job, all depends on where your skills are at.
BMXer's was the first I'd done after the course, and got the shape pretty good, rear screen went in first pop. It was prolly half as bad as yours but took us two nights.
First Torrie I paid something like $180 for two corners, paint and screens refitted, but that was like 20 years ago, and only the two corners (car was only 10 years old), not the whole bottom.
P.S. Short of doing the course, there is a pretty good book on panel repair by Gregory's at Supercheap for $18.00 (I think, maybe $25.00). That book covers all the techniques we did at the course, but doesn't have the practise. Get and old door and practice, practice, practice before you attack your car.
It's basically a case of little by little, cut a little rectangle of sheet metal, scribe the sill, cut the sill, weld in the new bit (being mindful of not putting too much heat in, i.e. no continuous welding, use a wet cloth first up cause you'll tend to put too much heat in first up). Repeat infinitum till you have it all done, then grind back. Obviously the better you can get the shape, and the longer the pieces the less painless the job, all depends on where your skills are at.
BMXer's was the first I'd done after the course, and got the shape pretty good, rear screen went in first pop. It was prolly half as bad as yours but took us two nights.
First Torrie I paid something like $180 for two corners, paint and screens refitted, but that was like 20 years ago, and only the two corners (car was only 10 years old), not the whole bottom.
P.S. Short of doing the course, there is a pretty good book on panel repair by Gregory's at Supercheap for $18.00 (I think, maybe $25.00). That book covers all the techniques we did at the course, but doesn't have the practise. Get and old door and practice, practice, practice before you attack your car.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 06 January 2006 - 02:26 PM.
#16
_postal_dood_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 03:00 PM
this 1???if so, it waz a good read... lol,
(like ive read all of it...)
p.s, i luv my new camera... hahaha
cheers michael
Edited by postal_dood, 06 January 2006 - 03:12 PM.
#18
ToRunYa
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 04:08 PM
thats a nice "family" scene on the cover late 70's early 80's? wonder how much lead and crap that little girl has breathed in lol
#19
_postal_dood_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 07:58 PM
ha ha ha... i know the book is old as.. but the info inside it aint bad...
theres no pretty colour pictures that i can look at...
theres no pretty colour pictures that i can look at...
#20
_gm3300_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 09:17 PM
here's some pics of my old LC GTR, the inner and outer sill were gone, i braced the door opening before removing the inner, the pic shows the brace and the rust before i started it, the inner had almost completely rusted through around the seat belt mount
this pic is of the new sill after drilling out the spot welds and blasting
the new owner has since had the sills put on by a panel shop, i was lucky to get a complete good sill off another car, i guess thats the hard part these days is finding a good one
grant
this pic is of the new sill after drilling out the spot welds and blasting
the new owner has since had the sills put on by a panel shop, i was lucky to get a complete good sill off another car, i guess thats the hard part these days is finding a good one
grant
#21
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 09:38 PM
just get one rolled up at any sheet metal place. will take a bit of skill to make it fit but thats the fun of it
#22
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:14 PM
Make parts out of sheet that are managable (able to be formed), and cover the entire extent of rust, tends to rust from inside out. Once you've made your replacement panel, mark out on the car where it fits before cutting into the car.
#23
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 11:15 PM
I always gather the family round while I do my panel work!!!!! NOT!thats a nice "family" scene on the cover late 70's early 80's? wonder how much lead and crap that little girl has breathed in lol
#24
salxu1
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Posted 07 January 2006 - 03:03 PM
THANK'S PATTY FOR YOUR SUPPORT!
I don't care if some one who think's that my car is not a real XU1 They did not see the car when I brought it of Gerry. For those who don't know it had the JP engine, tripple CD's the proper M21 Bathurst box (899 cluster) LOT'S OF RUST AND MOST IMPORTANT ** THE 3 TAG'S**
This car is 1 of 3 XU!'S with running chassis No in the GTR-XU1 Owner's Club. So I KNOW IT'S REAL
AS for the front gaurd's if YOU bothered to LOOK at all the photo's you would have seen BOTH the FRONT AND REAR had 4" STEEL FLAIR'S and the window was repaired using a standard a body section from a S model NO PIN'S.
BUT THE FACT REMAIN'S I HAVE A REAL GTR-XU1 THAT OWES ME $12500
DO YOU ? :finger:
THANK'S
IAN
I don't care if some one who think's that my car is not a real XU1 They did not see the car when I brought it of Gerry. For those who don't know it had the JP engine, tripple CD's the proper M21 Bathurst box (899 cluster) LOT'S OF RUST AND MOST IMPORTANT ** THE 3 TAG'S**
This car is 1 of 3 XU!'S with running chassis No in the GTR-XU1 Owner's Club. So I KNOW IT'S REAL
AS for the front gaurd's if YOU bothered to LOOK at all the photo's you would have seen BOTH the FRONT AND REAR had 4" STEEL FLAIR'S and the window was repaired using a standard a body section from a S model NO PIN'S.
BUT THE FACT REMAIN'S I HAVE A REAL GTR-XU1 THAT OWES ME $12500
DO YOU ? :finger:
THANK'S
IAN
#25
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 07 January 2006 - 07:05 PM
no, i don't have a real gtr-xu1 that owes me $12500...i have a sl 4 door that owes me $15000. you think your better than me...well do ya punk...
*ps...mucking around*
*ps...mucking around*
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