Ive been having this problem when driving at night where the headlights and dash lights will be normal, then all of a sudden get real bright for a few seconds then back to normal and it happens every 5-10 mins. times vary.
Also, during the day with out lights on (prob happens with lights on too, havent noticed) my electricity gauge (battery meter?) is all over the place, sometimes it will sit in the middle... then ill look a few mins later and its all the way up, then a few mins after that its all the way down. the gauge doesnt move fast, just every few mins when i check it... its moved.
Car is an LX with SLR dash.
Lights getting bright then dim
Started by
_mike_nofx_
, Jan 06 2006 11:37 AM
13 replies to this topic
#2
_J&S Racing_
_J&S Racing_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 12:29 PM
Try checking all your earth connections.
Maybe a loose fan belt, check alternator & what it's charging at.
Maybe a loose fan belt, check alternator & what it's charging at.
#3
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:05 PM
"electricity meter", assume we are talking about the voltmeter in the SLR dash.
Check battery to body earth and also regulator is screwed in tight.
If okay, sounds like your regulator is being tempermental which would warrant replacement. Do check that the voltage readings you see on the dash are replicated at the battery by another voltmeter.
Check battery to body earth and also regulator is screwed in tight.
If okay, sounds like your regulator is being tempermental which would warrant replacement. Do check that the voltage readings you see on the dash are replicated at the battery by another voltmeter.
#4
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 01:18 PM
Worn brushes on the combined brush/regulator unit (black box on the back of your alternator).
#5
davelh
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Posted 06 January 2006 - 04:28 PM
i agree with you pat, i will put money on it that it is the regulator/brush block on the alternator.
i had this happen about 3 years ago and it kept popping my lights until i figured it out
cheers
dave
i had this happen about 3 years ago and it kept popping my lights until i figured it out
cheers
dave
#6
_dazzaslr308_
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Posted 11 January 2006 - 10:55 PM
correct yella the problem could be a regulator playing up on the alternator, handy hint make sure the battery terminals r nice and clean also and the battery wire to the alternator is tight as all these r key factors for "flaring" trust me im an autoelectrician by trade. regards darrin.
#7
_mike_nofx_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 06:29 PM
Thanks, anyone have any idea how much a new regulator will cost, where to get one, and how hard it is to change?
#8
_dazzaslr308_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 10:41 PM
what ur after is a bosch oo5 regulator cost is around $25 and ur local carparts supplier should have them in stock, 2 screws and around 10mins on a cold motor is all it takes.
#9
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 16 January 2006 - 10:43 PM
Don't forget the pain in the ass wire that clips onto the regulator from inside the alternator. Very weird clip, but sure you'll work it out, just have a look when you take the old one out.
#10
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 09:02 AM
Could someone give me a rundown on how to change the regulator?
Ive done it on a few other cars but never my torries, the time has come for one of them. The original regulator is in place, it ends in 001, and is soldered on via a very short lead. The parts place said this reg was no longer available and gave me a reg ending in 005 which looks exactly the same except there is a ridge where a female spade connection can be made and solder holes if you want to go that way.
Do I solder the new reg in, or find the appropriate female spade connector that slides on? It looks like this wire has to keep very close to the fitting or it will foul other bits inside the alternator, so just not any female spade connector will do, can the right type of one be purchased.
Id prefer not to solder the new one in, looks like one would need a very hot/big iron to do it properly?, as well as having to awkwardly do this with very little lead to play with while leaning over the fender would be a pain, as would removing the alternator/aircon bracket to get the alternator off. However, i realise the original one will need to be unsoldered to start with, rather than cutting the wire, just so there is enough wire left to attach it.
Must be a lot of you out there that have had to deal with this, all suggestions welcome.
Thanks.
Ive done it on a few other cars but never my torries, the time has come for one of them. The original regulator is in place, it ends in 001, and is soldered on via a very short lead. The parts place said this reg was no longer available and gave me a reg ending in 005 which looks exactly the same except there is a ridge where a female spade connection can be made and solder holes if you want to go that way.
Do I solder the new reg in, or find the appropriate female spade connector that slides on? It looks like this wire has to keep very close to the fitting or it will foul other bits inside the alternator, so just not any female spade connector will do, can the right type of one be purchased.
Id prefer not to solder the new one in, looks like one would need a very hot/big iron to do it properly?, as well as having to awkwardly do this with very little lead to play with while leaning over the fender would be a pain, as would removing the alternator/aircon bracket to get the alternator off. However, i realise the original one will need to be unsoldered to start with, rather than cutting the wire, just so there is enough wire left to attach it.
Must be a lot of you out there that have had to deal with this, all suggestions welcome.
Thanks.
#11
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 10:16 AM
Darin, I'm going to remember that, good point though, poor or corroded connections is also a possibility.
Devils, what alternator do the UC's have? The books often talk about Lucas alternators but to tell you the truth, never seen one on a torrie or know how they are different. From what your telling me, yours is different again.
It's normally a plain uninsulated spade connector. But rather than connecting onto a pin or blade, it slides on an angled bit (from memory towards the brushes part of the connector. Really hard to explain. Do you have a mate with a Torrie, HQ with a Bosche alternator that you can just unbolt the reg to see the connection? It is an odd connection, nearly as odd as those weird windscreen wiper assembly clips.
Devils, what alternator do the UC's have? The books often talk about Lucas alternators but to tell you the truth, never seen one on a torrie or know how they are different. From what your telling me, yours is different again.
It's normally a plain uninsulated spade connector. But rather than connecting onto a pin or blade, it slides on an angled bit (from memory towards the brushes part of the connector. Really hard to explain. Do you have a mate with a Torrie, HQ with a Bosche alternator that you can just unbolt the reg to see the connection? It is an odd connection, nearly as odd as those weird windscreen wiper assembly clips.
#12
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 10:19 AM
Actually think I have a dead one in the shed. I'll try pull the reg out and snap some pics of the wire connection. Going away tomorrow, so is going to be touch and go.
#13
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 11:43 AM
They are bosch alternators, all original, Im assuming the sliding clip is a more recent addition and all were soldered initially, given that the 001 reg is no longer available and has been replaced by the 005 with the sliding clip(female spade connector)
#14
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 25 January 2006 - 08:28 PM
Had to get the car back on the road quickly, ended up doing the unsolder and resolder. A little tricky when you dont take the alternator of the car but doable.
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