418 replies to this topic

[A9X]

Did anyone manage to get a look at the torana in the Sydney car yard that was advertised with PS,?
I posted it a couple of weeks ago for the locals to chase down.

Welby

[ls2lxhatch]

The problem with column power steering units is even if you get them to fit you are still stuck with the Torana rack ratio.

If you want power steering because the steering is too heavy then it is a possible solution. If you want power steering because you want more direct steering then the rack needs to be replaced.

I have the TF Cortina rack in my Torana.

Edited by AndyCullen, 10 November 2006 - 12:29 PM.

[Toranamat69]

Andycullen,

I have the TF Cortina rack in my Torana.

How about some pics you bugger

Bango,

I havn't discounted the WRX one or the Cortina one yet, still dragging my arse.

I am packing up my workshop for a move so I prolly won't get back onto things for a few more weeks.

M@

[ls2lxhatch]

https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1110889a.jpg

https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1110888a.jpg

https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1110884a.jpg

The conversion was done in 2004. The rack was reconditioned and a new commodore power steering pump fitted. It is about two turns from lock to lock and the turning circle is close but not quite the same as the standard rack. A large chunk has been removed from the K-frame to accommodate the power steering unit and get the rack to steering arm angles right. The RHS engine mount had to be modified to provide clearance.

When I had the wheel alignment done by WA Suspensions I asked about the bump steer and was told it was within normal range for a Torana. I have to get the car engineered because of the LS2 conversion so I will get a formal analysis done then. I hope to have that completed by the end of the year but I am still waiting on parts. I expect to refit the K-frame in the next couple of weeks so If you want a specific photo let me know soon.

Personally I would like to see a K-frame fabricated from steel tube and designed for a power steering rack. In the late 80's there was a company that advertised a fabricated K-frame on the back cover of Street Machine but I have not be able to find the ad or the company since. I am sure there would be many people happy to purchase a K-frame setup for common power steering that is stronger than the original.

[Toranamat69]

Thanks for the pics Andy,

Did you do the conversion? or is this a CRS or other mod?

What steering arms are those ones? They look rather Hq-ish.

It looks like it has been mounted right back and as high as possible which is where I estimate it needs to be. How are the main mounting bolts done?
Does the rack bolt hard against the crossmember or do you use some spacers between them?

I have no idea of the facilities at WA suspensions but I highly doubt they plotted your bumpsteer curve during a wheel alignement - this requires your spring and shock absorber removed. I find some places will just feed you BS if you start asking hard questions rather than just tell you they don't know something.

Any chance of a pic directly front on to show if the Cortina rack sits proud of the crossmember through the mid section below the engine?

I have always liked the idea of a fabricated front subframe, that would be the ultimate but the current mod laws make this a bit hard at the moment.

Have you tried this setup out on the sstreet yet?

M@

[ls2lxhatch]

The stub axles and steering arms are standard LX RTS Torana with Hoppers brakes.

I have owned the Torana since 1988. During most of that time it has been my only car. I drove the car for about a six months with the power steering and wished I had done it years ago. The first thing I did after getting the power steering was replace the GTS steering wheel with a sports steering wheel. I like the look of the GTS steering wheel but they feel like they would be better suited to a bus.

The two turns lock to lock steering ratio is the most significant difference, it makes the car feel more responsive. The steering feels very similar to the steering in my Subaru Forester positive but not heavy. It was good enough for me to decide to continue on to stage two of the rebuild (drive train, brakes, rims). Once complete I will sell the Forester which I only bought so I could work on the Torana.

WA suspensions did not do a formal bump steer analysis. It was just a casual comment based on the comparing the affect on toe in/out over a limited amount of suspension travel whilst performing the wheel alignment.

The rack is mounted on aluminium bushes using the same style bolts as the standard rack but about an inch longer. It is very difficult to find two high tensile coach bolts in the required length. The standard bolt holes were moved to slightly to the RHS. (From memory)

I would not have thought that it would be that difficult to get a steel tube K-frame passed by an engineer if the original geometry is maintained. I would like to see a picture of the one that was on the back cover of Street Machine again. I think is was between 91 and 95 now.

I will take some more pictures in the morning.

[A9X]

I am very keen to help out in any way to start a tube frame replacement.

I am building a hatch for Targa work here in WA and have been following the power steering thread with interest. My spannerman/co driver is very keen on fabricating something from scratch.

In fact, if anyone here in WA has a Torana Front Cut for a bench model, i may get a start on this just for curiosity.

Let me speak to my spannerman.

Welby

[ls2lxhatch]

Welby,

I have a complete UC K-frame and rack on standby in case my power steering does not pass when I get the LS2 engineered. You can borrow it for measurements if you like. I am in Willetton.

Andy

[A9X]

Perfect Andy,

My spannerman is in Canning Vale.

He is in the east for a fortnight but we will gladly take you up on that when he returns.

Welby

[axistr]

In the current street machine mag I noticed in the ask K.B section, K.B replyed to a reader asking about torana K-frames being made by a non O.E manufucturer. his answer was castlemain rod shop.

[Toranamat69]

Chopper, I missed your question above.

I have some 7 degree stubs here to measure I just didn't quite get the measurements done before I had to start packing up and preparing for my house move.

At least I have bought a place this time with really good workshop facilities so I should be able to get stuck into it more.

Regarding the offset of the wheels, do you mean from a scrub radius point of view?

If so, I thought you would want slightly more negative offset. What size tires do you have on the front, I can draw up a sketch and visuallise it a bit better.

M@

[ls2lxhatch]

A few more pictures.

https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120083a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120087a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120090a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120092a.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...h/P1120094a.jpg

[ls2lxhatch]

In the current street machine mag I noticed in the ask K.B section, K.B replyed to a reader asking about torana K-frames being made by a non O.E manufacturer. his answer was castlemain rod shop.

I wrote to K.B about 6 months ago. CRS do not make K-frames for LX Torana. There was a time when they would modify the original K-frame to suit TF Cortina rack. WA suspensions were able to perform the wheel alignment after removing the solid round spacers from the upper arm bolts. (Not an easy job to do with the engine in.) Now the K-frame is out of the car I will have to measure it and see if it has actually sagged or the problem was just caused by deformation of the upper bushes.

[ls2lxhatch]

Thanks Chopper. I found this thread.

http://www.gmh-toran...?showtopic=2065

[ls2lxhatch]

From the other thread it appears 794F and 792R centre to centre was the result for three k-frames and one 790F and 789R.

I just measured my power steering front end which is LX RTS and it was 789F and 787R which made me think it had sagged from the V8 and power steering mods. I then measured the spare UC front which had a six and and came up with the same measurements. So I guess it must be within typical tolerance's.

[ls2lxhatch]

I used a steel rule. It is reasonably difficult to measure the centre between two holes accurately. I expect if four people measured the same crossmember with the same rule we would get a variation of a couple of mm.