Power Steering
#126
Posted 18 March 2007 - 05:43 PM
Grant..
#127 _CHOPPER_
Posted 18 March 2007 - 07:43 PM
#128
Posted 20 March 2007 - 12:45 AM
So far this is all I have had to chop out of the subframe. And I will need to weld something back in there. I want to run the PS lines throught the subframe so I will leave a hole there for them to go through but I am going to see how it fits with the PS lines running externally too.
I didn't need to get stuck into the drivers side engine mount the way I did, I just did that to get it out of the way whilst I was playing around with rack position.
Enders, You can come around and have a look if you want, let me know when you want to comeover and I will PM you my address - or ring me if you still have my mobile no - it's still the same.
M@
#129
Posted 01 April 2007 - 08:37 PM
The Rack is mounted at the same vertical height as the Torana one originally was and is approx 6mm further forwards. To my pleasant surprise the bump steer curve has come out almost identical to the bumpsteer you get with the A9X arms on the HQ stubs in bump travel and pretty much a vertical line in rebound travel so I would go as far as to say it looks to have a nicer bumpsteer curve than the A9X setup.
I currently run the A9X setup on my LX and it feels good for lack of bumpsteer and this is supported by the measurements I have plotted for that setup so I am pretty happy that the WRX rack looks to be better again.
The Ackerman angles of the front wheels are ever so slightly different to the a9X and UC setups (I expected this since the rack is 6mm forwards.) I can do a little grinding on the alloy bit of the wrx rack and move it at least 3mm further back so it will be so close to std UC that I won't even be able to measure the difference with my instruments.
Interestingly the WRX rack has an additional 5 to 6mm per side you can turn before it runs out of travel as the UC steering arms hit the bumpstops on the lower control arms first.
I reckon I will modify the steering arms slightly to improve the steering lock. I did a bit of a measurement and I can get about another 3 degrees steering lock if I do this.
At the moment it is 2.6 turns lock to lock - nice but will be about 2.75 turns lock to lock when I mod the steering stops to turn a little further.
The std WRX tie rods are about 10 to 15mm too long so I had to go with no lock nuts to do the test fit and I could just line the front wheels up straight but the earlier subaru tie rods are about 10mm shorter and are threaded for an extra 20mm or so, so they will be perfect for the job without even being trimmed.
The Magna tie rod ends are spot on and do not go close to binding so all looks good to me.
If I had a Holden V8 in my LX , I would be going with this exact setup but unfortunately it doesn't clear the sump on my engine so I am now going to have to ream out the A9X steering arms I have and mount the rack about 10 to 12mm lower to look for another suitable setup to go with my engine.
I'll post some of my measurements and pics when I get some free time.
#130 _CHOPPER_
Posted 01 April 2007 - 08:49 PM
#131
Posted 01 April 2007 - 08:58 PM
Hotrod on ebay last week
#132
Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:17 PM
did you need a car to dummy fit it to?
Grant..
#133
Posted 23 May 2007 - 04:31 PM
Has anybody tried/investigated fitting these types of electric power assited steering.
http://www.motorspor...steering_system
Just a thought at this stage. I have no idea of cost to buy nor to fit and make it work in a LX. I wonder if there is enough real estate in an LX to accomodate this kind of unit. Not sure if these coloumns have a collapsble shaft either. Too many questions.....brain freeze..
Max
#134
Posted 26 June 2007 - 08:51 PM
#135
Posted 20 July 2007 - 01:45 AM
anyone herd of it or used it ?
Evan
#136
Posted 23 July 2007 - 07:40 PM
i e mailed motors sport electrics about their electronic power steering unit and this is the response i got.
"SORRY EVAN THIS IS A RACE CAR ONLY UNIT AND IS NOT ADR APPROVED , COST IS AROUND , $7000.00 AS I SAID IT IS REALLY AIMED AT HIGH END RACING CARS.
CHEERS."
doesnt look like it is a option. dam
Evan
#137
Posted 12 September 2007 - 08:43 PM
#138 _Christian_O_
Posted 16 October 2007 - 01:47 PM
I have been reading your progress with interest. I am thinking of doing the same thing, lucky for me that the old man is a subaru mechanic and he had promised to give me a hand. I have a rack, and I am going to buy a subframe to fit it to before I install it in my car. How is it going?, has the rack been fitted to your car, is it working? Another thing, is is necessary to cut into the subframe??
Good luck
Chilly.
#139
Posted 16 October 2007 - 06:34 PM
Len.
#140
Posted 22 October 2007 - 05:53 PM
I have done heaps more on my power steering setup but it is a fair way from being fitted to the car because I am not just doing steering, I am also doing tubular control arms, improving the suspension geometry and a big brake upgrade on this front end before it goes in the car.
To mount the WRX rack where the original Torana one goes needs a bit cut out of the front subframe to clear the servo valve but that is all. I have actually worked out a way to mount the rack another 18mm forward and still get all the same bumpsteer and ackerman angles it does reduce the directness of the steering from 15.5:1 to 17:1 which is still pretty good - I don't know if this will stop you having to notch the subframe though but it would make the notch smaller.
You need to use a pair of short HZ power steering arms and then get some Pinto bumpsteer adjusters and machine the steering arms to suit and then use a sperical rod end rather than a normal tie rod end.
This is how I am doing my setup now but I am still mounting the rack back as far as I can and 20mm lower and using LH steering arms for a super quick steer.
I'll post some pics a bit later of how I am doing things.
M@
#141
Posted 22 October 2007 - 05:57 PM
If thet's the yellow one, there were quite a number of pics of this car shown on the Toranafest galleries a few weeks back including plenty from underneath.
I had a pretty good look at the pics but they were not taken from an angle which you could tell how far back the rack was mounted or how much the subframe was modified to make it fit.
It was definately a Cortina rack and pinion though.
M@
#142
Posted 02 December 2007 - 06:33 PM
#143 _CHOPPER_
Posted 13 February 2008 - 09:29 PM
#144
Posted 14 February 2008 - 07:07 AM
#145 _CHOPPER_
Posted 14 February 2008 - 11:31 AM
#146
Posted 14 February 2008 - 06:13 PM
#147
Posted 14 February 2008 - 09:53 PM
#148 _CHOPPER_
Posted 15 February 2008 - 04:57 PM
#149
Posted 19 February 2008 - 10:33 PM
I have tons of parts here so I am the hold up - just seems every weekend I have family visiting or places to go and I have not been getting time to get stuck into it very much - just a few hours here and there. That and starting a new job just before x-mas has left me pretty stuffed after work during the week.
Very frustrating really because I have most of it worked out in my head - in theory anyway if it all works.
Saying all that, if I put in a few weeks of hard yakka I would probably be at the point fairly soon where I need my new brakes and coilover shocks to go any further and I don't have the cash lying around for either of those at the moment.
OzyOzyOzy,
Do you mean the Del-a-lum bushes? If so the top ones are from these guys.
http://www.globalwes.....d shafts..htm
The kit number is 1012 and they suit the 64 to 72 Chevelles.
You will need to make custom cross shafts to make them work on the Torana - they are so close to fitting the sock cross shafts but unfortunately there is just not quite enough thread on them. They will suit the stock upper control arms still though.
I never managed to track down any del-a-lum bushes which will press straight into the stock lower control arms although I didn't look as hard as I could have. Since I am making custom lower arms anyway I just got some lowers to suit the Chevelles and will make my custom arms to suit. They would not actually be that hard to make up a set if you are any good at machining - I just don't have access to a good enough lathe so I bought some which I can easily make do with.
M@
#150
Posted 28 February 2008 - 09:18 PM
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