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UC Torana 350 Chev

Started by _UC_CHEV_ , Feb 08 2007 04:45 PM

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273 replies to this topic

#101 boomfunk

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 11:42 AM

hey mate, dont be so down,

i no you probably have heard it all before but you should have got it checked before hand

this is a part of learning ...we all learn, i've been there and done that

Edited by boomfunk, 09 March 2007 - 11:43 AM.

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#102 _UC_CHEV_

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 12:07 PM

how can u check it with it all together? i just pulled it down and took it to get looked at.. and a few guys said its stuffed and should go into the bin.

spent $2500 on a collection of rooted parts.

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#103 boomfunk

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 12:20 PM

you pull it apart... joe blow can tell you what he wants just as long as you buy..

the whole situ was that you new the engine was stuffed.

nobody sells a hatch with all that and an engine just needs a rebuild... no way.. its either stolen or the person needs money bad..or its completly cactus..

it was still good buy the hatch..very good,

the warning signs where there however with the motor,

thats why people spend resonable money on building engines, if it was cheap then everybody would go right thats cheap i rebuild it and then i have a 10 grand engine... dont work like that

he sold it for a reason... you found the reason why

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#104 boomfunk

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 12:53 PM

so now what are you going to do? any ideas

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#105 _UC_CHEV_

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 04:25 PM

looking for another block :spoton:

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#106 _tyre fryer_

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 04:37 PM

radiator still isn't here. sorry to jump on your thread but now even my dad's hassling me about it. did you go down the P.O?
thanks.
Matt

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#107 _UC_CHEV_

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 05:12 PM

hey didnt go to the post today coz i was hopeing it would defenetly get to you today will go in on monday morning and see whats going on. i defenely posted it to the correct address they must of #@$^%& up.

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#108 DanWA

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 05:42 PM

Bad luck Nathan... maybe one of those crate motors was the go?

Seams like Sarsha got the good side of the deal...

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#109 boomfunk

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 06:06 PM

thats the way nath, you keep at, it will give you even more fight to build a sicko engine next time,

thats what situations like this do, just get on with it, least the next one will be good...

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#110 _mra9x_

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 06:53 PM

i got a 327 here in pieces going cheap pm me if intersted

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#111 _UC_CHEV_

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Posted 09 March 2007 - 07:07 PM

pm sent

anyone know the defferences between 350 and 327? will a 383 crank fit

cheers,

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#112 _UC_CHEV_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 04:47 AM

check out this BIG boy! :spoton:

Everything on it is only 100km old. Full rebuilt
brand new genuine Ford 3.5:1 Gears
and a Mini spool :rolleyes:

these centers are sooo heavy, its unreal.

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#113 Toranamat69

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 10:21 AM

AFAIK 3.5's were never a genuine ford ratio, only aftermarket, that's what the diff guys have always told me anyway.

M@

Edited by Toranamat69, 11 March 2007 - 10:21 AM.

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#114 Heath

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 11:04 AM

^ They're a bloody popular ratio though. 80% of all the GT Falcon guys I know are using 3.5:1.

Yes, they're heavy as anything. I can't lift one. Then again I'm not that strong so it's probably no suprise.

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#115 _UC_CHEV_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 11:12 AM

has a ford badge stamped into the big wheel with the teeth. how can i check if its really a 3.50:1? it was advertised as a 3.55:1 but i thought he got mixed up with holden ratios.

yea will be a fun ratio! shame i have no overdrive. wont be driving too far haha

at least 30+kg of metal :spit:

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#116 Heath

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 11:58 AM

lol yes I think it's substancially more than 30kg.

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#117 dattoman

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 12:16 PM

The ford ratio is usually 3.55

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#118 _SLR Goat_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 01:05 PM

SWEET RIDE

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#119 _bodallafella_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 01:31 PM

anyone know the defferences between 350 and 327? will a 383 crank fit

Most 327s have smaller rod and main journals then a 350 so the 383 crank will not fit. A small journal block is good for 327 only as stroker cranks are not readily available for these blocks. If you want a 350 or 383 you need a 350 block.

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#120 _T0rana_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 03:40 PM

maybe a balanced high comp fast reving 327 would be better suited for a light torana? rather then a lazy stroker. cheers bodallafella

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#121 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 06:45 PM

No good dude - not at all...

I may make a small suggestion. Chev 350 crate long motor - $2890 + freight... 290HP, pull the cam out and throw in a bigger one, pull the heads off and shave them and get some hardcore valves and springs... For less than $4000 you can have the bottom end of a beast, just use your 383 manifold and carby and the rest...

Otherwise there are heaps of 4 bolt 350's getting around cheap as...

Good luck man
Keith

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#122 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 06:46 PM

anyone know the defferences between 350 and 327? will a 383 crank fit

Most 327s have smaller rod and main journals then a 350 so the 383 crank will not fit. A small journal block is good for 327 only as stroker cranks are not readily available for these blocks. If you want a 350 or 383 you need a 350 block.

Early 327s had a small journal big end, mains are the same regardless. Both share a 4.00" bore.

283/307s had a different main, and the later blocks with a 1 piece RMS are also different.

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#123 _bodallafella_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 07:11 PM

327s were small journal (2.30") from 1962-1967 and large journal (2.45") from 1968-1969 but the early small journal blocks are much more common.

All 350s are large journal and 400s are larger at 2.65". Late 2 piece seal blocks are large journal but will require a late crank or a rear seal adapter to use an early crank and oil pan.

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#124 _T0rana_

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Posted 11 March 2007 - 07:27 PM

cheers guys.. :rockon:

$4000!! too much! nothing wrong with good secondhand parts

whatever i buy will be bored out and completely rebuilt. just like new :spoton:

only cheaper. kinda wanna build the motor myself so i can do it again later on aswell.

any differences with a 327 corvette engine LT1 2bolt to a normal pre 1981 350ci 2bolt just want to make sure it would all fit on. sump/manifold/flexplate/engine mounts .. just things like that.

apparently all LT1 corvette blocks have the water pump on a gear rather then the belt pulley system.

thanx

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#125 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 12 March 2007 - 07:21 PM

I know what you mean man, but again, with a crate block you are getting brand new - not rusted out or in need of a bore out... I have a sock in my upper radiator hose right now (you can buy them from your local radiator place) which catches bits of the inner block flaking off as time goes by. My motor was acid dipped and bored, and cleaned again. For the first month of operation, i'd check this 'sock' on a weekly basis and be tipping out half a handful of rusty old iron from the outside of the bores. After 20 000kms and many checks, i'm still pulling chunks of rusty outta the sock. Nothing compares to new - you are guaranteed to know its not cracked or overbored...

Cheers
Keith